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good work man, it does seem a good gift for someone, especially someone who likes pictures and the likes

voltmeter them... also just a small test you can do to determine if the battery packs have any amperage in them, if they have no amperage your not going to be powering anything...

what you can do is, lightly and quickly touch the lead off the batteries together, warning only for .00001 of a second ...

Since that is a TI converter it probably has a high range input and also a pretty low threshold, also the 12v line on the n64 accepts power as low as 6.5 v, maybe even lower... really the only problem with power the n64 is having the cpu line drop low enough to reset the cpu or having the screen cut ...

Yea, the 7808 powers the ps1 lcd just fine, good if you are doing a 12v based system because this means you have 3 volts to drop before you get to where the regulator might fail...

You can also save a bit of power by turning off the n64's 12v line, this does not affect the running game and does not cause any lockup of the system, and will save a few milliamps of power... just a thought

I found that just cutting down the original n64 heatplate works like a charm, I never have an issue with heat from my board, but mine is the v9 board which gets a little less hot than the older ones...

the n64's joystick uses pot's, at least the one i have here in shambles...

this is why it interfaces using a 6 pin interface, as normal pots have 3 wires, and since you have 2 axis = 6 wires...

I have fried 13 consoles, yes THIRTEEN! n64's various reasons, some stopped working right after i had them out of the case, others died due to 12v being accidently fed into the 3.3v line, some fried because they hated me (cant be proven) and others died during various attempts at relocation of parts ...

well, it also has a lot to do with the input amperage, like i said everyone will have different experiences with the voltages.

I seriously doubt that any n64 had 3 ram chips, unless you are including the expansion pack... otherwise there would be no where to fit the chips on the board...

thats ...

so no one has found a way around the input to the ps1 lcd, i mean, i would assume that the decoder would run on 5v... if the audio amp wont work its not that big of a deal...

its not like a hummer getting good gas milage at all if you think about it, asking a fonking huge lcd like the intec gc one ...

well, you could try to see if it is still outputting the correct voltages to the controller port, not sure of your model, but some i think had the same power controller going to both ram and controller sockets...

from my experience what happens when an n64 fries, is exactly what g-force said, since ...

thermal compound is what you use to make thermal contact between 2 surfaces, what you need to attach the heatsink to a surface such as a chip, is thermal adhesive, http://newegg.com

I have found that one of the best ways to cool the n64 board, is just to modify the original heatplate, also the ...

I have just did a comprehensive test of the n64's tolerance to voltage's and what I have found is:

Interestingly enough the n64 continues to run just fine without the 12v line hooked up, the audio and video output just stop working thats all, if you hook that line back up you get video and audio ...

Ok, bump, in this case, does anyone know of a 5 inch or larger lcd that will run off 5v and has low power consumption, i plan to do the led mod, but the lcd being able to run at this low of power is a must...

any ideas?

I heard someone say that they got the whole thing to run off 5v

Not that I dont believe you, but does anyone have any ideas?