Tips for Relocating the Cartidge Slot
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Kurt_
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Tips for Relocating the Cartidge Slot
Well first off I probably should have posted this BEFORE my SNES fried because of a bad relocating job (some flux bridged two connections)....
Does anybody have any tips for a newb regarding relocating the Cartridge slot?
Like, group the wires in groups of 4 or 5.
A LOT of my wires kept snapping off.
Hoping to get a mini this time...
Does anybody have any tips for a newb regarding relocating the Cartridge slot?
Like, group the wires in groups of 4 or 5.
A LOT of my wires kept snapping off.
Hoping to get a mini this time...
Hey, sup?
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cowsgoquack101
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marshallh
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1. Make sure your iron's tip is shiny. If it is black or dirty, sand it down with some sandpaper till you see copper, then put some solder on it, wipe it off with a rag.
2. Use fine gauge wire (stranded, not solid)
3. Tin your wires (both ends.) This means right after you strip the wire ends, heat the bare wire with your iron and put a bit of solder onot it so it's shiny. This will help the wires stick much better.
2. Use fine gauge wire (stranded, not solid)
3. Tin your wires (both ends.) This means right after you strip the wire ends, heat the bare wire with your iron and put a bit of solder onot it so it's shiny. This will help the wires stick much better.
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Turbo Tax 1.0
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Triton
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most important thing: PATIENCE! this takes A LONG ASS TIME! anywhere from 3-6 hours! take breaks
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legoboy
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Yeah, it does take allot of time. for me it took one day to carefully remove the slot, then another to reconnect it. I took allot of breaks during both.
http://legoboy.com/projects/snesp.php for more details and pictures.
http://legoboy.com/projects/snesp.php for more details and pictures.
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alight1992
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xriverfalconx
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when you desolder the cart off the board (visually it looks like you got all the solder out), take pliers, and grab each pin shaking it from side to side til you see its actually moving and not stuck to the edges still. Once you've done that to all pins, remove from original slot and it should come out without a problem. If a pin still comes out, don't be scared, it's very easy to put it back in the slot.
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bioniclebert
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For the cart slot, I actually got a board, put the cart slot in, cut it to match about the size, and then solder to the board than just to the pins. too bad the super nintendo is busted , but ive actually done it both ways, and going the extra 2$ for a little PC board is really worth it.
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Turbo Tax 1.0
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dudes, you shouldnt sand your tip.
tips are coated in iron or zinc to protect the copper, which oxidizes rapidly. if you take off this protectve layer, your tip will totally disintegrate much quicker than it normally would. tust me. ive done it.
use a wet soponge to wipe off your tip while its hot, flux it, then tin it. if you keep sponging and tinning every 10 minutes, you wont need any more flux. (assuming you are using the proper rosin-core solder)
also, i reccomend using a pin header to attach your ribbon cable to, instead of soldering it directly to the board. that way you wont have any wires bending and breaking.
if you do put wires straight in, consider encasing the ends in epoxy to stop them from breaking. be careful though, epoxy is pretty permanent.
tips are coated in iron or zinc to protect the copper, which oxidizes rapidly. if you take off this protectve layer, your tip will totally disintegrate much quicker than it normally would. tust me. ive done it.
use a wet soponge to wipe off your tip while its hot, flux it, then tin it. if you keep sponging and tinning every 10 minutes, you wont need any more flux. (assuming you are using the proper rosin-core solder)
also, i reccomend using a pin header to attach your ribbon cable to, instead of soldering it directly to the board. that way you wont have any wires bending and breaking.
if you do put wires straight in, consider encasing the ends in epoxy to stop them from breaking. be careful though, epoxy is pretty permanent.
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nos_slived
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