Posted a while back about a PS360 controller

[Enigma]

I only JUSt got my tact switches in and after spending about $50(getting lots of extras) I find RDC here saying that's a waste of time and they don't feel as good as simply wiring the boards together and breaking certain grounds. I'm confident enough in my solder skills to do this, But I have NO IDEA what goes where. And tracing the matrix seems near impossible for me.

I could follow a guide no problem, but I'm no good and making the guide, if that makes sense. I don't even need a wire to wire guide. a simple labelled layout of the controller would suffice.

RDC if you're there, help please....

Also the 360 board is from a wireless controller and is NOT one of the 2 seen in an older post you made. I don't know how to tell which PS3 one I have either...

EDIT: It's an older DS3 controller. Pretty much got it as soon as they came out in NA. And the 360 controller is a brand new Wireless. If that help you decide what is needed...

Dualshock 3 is the MSU_VX 1.03
360 controller is the Wireless Matrix as seen here http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=512342" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I've been googleing and found a lot of threads helping to trace, mostly RDC's threads. They're traced, But I need them labelled...lol, I know I suck. Or at least the PS3 board. I ruined the PS3 board for Bens method as the little conductive piece for the buttons came out, leaving nothing to solder too. It also means I can't just use a multimeter to check which goes to where from front to back.

I was originally planning to simply buy a new DS 3 and shove the ruined one inside it, then return it for a refund, which I guess would give me easier solder spots as I then would end up with a newer board, so al i have to do is carefully scrape that conductive stuff off, rather then trying to carefully pry those little pins out.

Anyways, I'm fairly certain I could follow the DS stuff on a newer controller. But I'm a little confused about solder points on the 360 controller, and which lines to cut...I would just PM RDC, but I dunno how...lol.

[RDC]

Tact switches are a waste of time IMHO for making a PS360, they do have their uses though. Even the 'soft' Tact switches are still Tact switches and have a different amount of travel and feel to them versus how the controller was designed to work, and keeping the 360 board for it's button contacts keeps the exact feel of the controller intact as nothing there is changed at all, so if you're wanting a PS3 controller stuffed into a 360 shell there's no other way to go about it, again IMHO, and is why I make them that way.

Info on the PS3 controllers can be found here..

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Info on the 360 controllers can be found here..

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=471958" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I honestly have no plans to ever make a PS360 tutorial, there are just too many versions of boards that can be used and Sony seems to change them every few months or so, and that's a much, much more massive undertaking to do one of those up tutorial wise than it is to just build the thing.

As far as tracing out the controllers go, every bit of that info is in the above links in a few different threads, and the one you already have looked at has the info you're looking for on the Wireless Matrix, it's all traced out there with a diagram that shows what is what and the PS3 controllers are all done in their thread.

The PS360 is probably the 3rd hardest controller I've done to date, behind the CGnome and 3PS60, and even with a full blown tutorial to follow it would still be a bit of a challenge. As far as knowing what TP spots or traces do what, that's all info that's out there.

The DS3 version you have has TP spots all over the back of the board, no reason to remove the Daughter board connector on it at all really, but it would make for wiring it easier as you can go kinda 50/50 there with it. The newer versions you have to stay pretty much all on the top side of the board, so it's not really any easier to use one of them versus the one you have there.

Good luck with it, and do you mind if I send the people that gripe about what it costs to have one done your way now? That way you can try and describe to them it's not quite as simple as they think it is.