S-Video on PSOne Screen. You can't do it..
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bioniclebert
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bioniclebert
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And it works! I used 3 100PF compacitors that I pulled off of a GBO board.
I got em near the Link cable. There should be 4 capacitors there that say 101 on them. De solder them and hook e'm in series(i cut up a breadboard)
that way you have 400Pf. I am using 3 out of the 4 compacitors and it works fine.
I got em near the Link cable. There should be 4 capacitors there that say 101 on them. De solder them and hook e'm in series(i cut up a breadboard)
that way you have 400Pf. I am using 3 out of the 4 compacitors and it works fine.
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Turbo Tax 1.0
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thank you very much squee and who says im not makin a portableS q u e e ! wrote:Yeah, but you'd have to make a custom connector of some fashion. A plug on the console with the S-video one the end, if you still want it as a home console, and not a portable, of course.I don't know why you wouldn't want to make a GC portable like I almost did.
Gonna do this when I get my new GC, though...
Now for a portable, yes. It is easy. But, the pinouts are (of course) different for each region. Damn you Nintendo!!! Oh well, on the NTSC version, pin 3 is luma, and pin 9 is chroma.
Picture on how to find the pins:
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usbcd36
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If you have a component cable, you're in luck. The GameCube can output full-fledged RGB, just follow the guide in the screens forum. Note that you do need the cable, the connector that fits in the back of the 'Cube contains a decoder chip for it to work.Turbo Tax 1.0 wrote:hmm i can do S-video on a GC with out a component cable right
and wat makes S-vid better than composite
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eastsider_1
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yeah, i get that. what im saying is where does the OTHER end of the chroma wire go? everything quoted is understood. Hopefully you could tell me were this other end of the wire goes, if not then take another pic of it and show where BOTH ends are soldered. WHEHsegasonicfan wrote:it says right in the picture where you connect chroma. Lift up the cap and solder the wire to it. And the second pic has two wires because one is connecting luma from the back of the board to the compsite in on the front. The other is where the luma signal is coming from.
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S q u e e !
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eastsider_1
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S q u e e !
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segasonicfan
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lol, you're probably talking about me. But if you think I'm conceited you're gravely mistaken.
Anyway, I've done a lot or research on this and a component mod directly on the PSOne screen is near-impossible
The chroma encoder circuit has to be told via a programmed I2C bus to change to component mode. Unfortunately the main circuit which sends this data (the samsung "wise view" LTS5QTB) doesn't have a datasheet anywhere online. Many people have been trying to hunt ont down but it just isn't available (even to buy). This makes any component attempts even for software programmers near impossible.
The only reason S-video works is because the chroma encoders standard Composite mode is the same mose as S-video- u just have to split the chram and luma input lines.
However, there is a solution to the component problem that I am working on right now. That is, making an Component-->RGB converter. While it costs a damn fortune to buy one ($100+), they can be made for under $20 worth in parts. All that's requires in an LM1881, a microprocessor, and 3 opamps. It's an extremely time involving task to construct a test circuit though and I've already had to build a couple (with incorrect opamps nonetheless x_X). I did order all the proper parts though and I've finished making one for YUV-RGB but I'm not having the best luck with it. I believe this is partly due to the differences between YUV and Y Cb Cr encoding. That's why I'm going to build the Y CbCr circuit as well. Here are the resources I found for doing this:
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/report.html
http://home.att.net/~billhudson/rybyrgb.pdf
I'll keep this post updated with my progress.
-Segasonicfan
Anyway, I've done a lot or research on this and a component mod directly on the PSOne screen is near-impossible
The only reason S-video works is because the chroma encoders standard Composite mode is the same mose as S-video- u just have to split the chram and luma input lines.
However, there is a solution to the component problem that I am working on right now. That is, making an Component-->RGB converter. While it costs a damn fortune to buy one ($100+), they can be made for under $20 worth in parts. All that's requires in an LM1881, a microprocessor, and 3 opamps. It's an extremely time involving task to construct a test circuit though and I've already had to build a couple (with incorrect opamps nonetheless x_X). I did order all the proper parts though and I've finished making one for YUV-RGB but I'm not having the best luck with it. I believe this is partly due to the differences between YUV and Y Cb Cr encoding. That's why I'm going to build the Y CbCr circuit as well. Here are the resources I found for doing this:
http://elm-chan.org/works/yuv2rgb/report.html
http://home.att.net/~billhudson/rybyrgb.pdf
I'll keep this post updated with my progress.
-Segasonicfan
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eastsider_1
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S q u e e !
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Foxx373?usbcd36 wrote:Whoever the conceited guy (sorry) with m4d soldering skills is…
Last edited by S q u e e ! on Sat Aug 27, 2005 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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eastsider_1
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I was messing around with my fried LCD motherboard and connected the 5v pin onthe front of the screen to a small chip labeled DVI and it has a lead to the composite in line. I tapped it and it made a small spark. The screen swithed off for a moment and came back on, i connected a headphone connector to the composite in and nothing upposedly
"switched over". I did it again and the screen switched as it would when composite vid is on. Dont know what this could be, but if somoene is willing to see if this is the component mode switch weve all been waiting for, you never know. Place the 5v wire to the BACK of the DVI chip that's linked from comp. video in.
"switched over". I did it again and the screen switched as it would when composite vid is on. Dont know what this could be, but if somoene is willing to see if this is the component mode switch weve all been waiting for, you never know. Place the 5v wire to the BACK of the DVI chip that's linked from comp. video in.
Yeah, im the one with the insane solder skills... When you have at it for over 15 years, see how good you get. And i have been looking into a way of getting the verge/PSone screens into component mode. Im going to be ordering some parts soon, and im going to see if i can get a PIC microcontroller (plus some glue logic and what not) to get the buggar into Component mode. Dont count on me getting this to work, my coding skills are horrible. I spend all my time in hardware, not software, but i will give this a try. Even if I do get this working, pray to god you dont have to solder onto any TSOP chips, not many people can do it.
eastsider: Its not smart to just cross stuff on the board. Be careful, you can blow your screen out like that. Read the datasheets SeagaSonicFan posted to see what does what before you just start crossing things.
eastsider: Its not smart to just cross stuff on the board. Be careful, you can blow your screen out like that. Read the datasheets SeagaSonicFan posted to see what does what before you just start crossing things.
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