...and I'm making a list of things I need. My project is a NOAC with Hip Screen. I want to make sure I get everything I need since Frys is sort of a long drive. So here's my list so far.
hot glue
hot glue gun?
aligator clips/wires (lots of 'em and many colors! hard to test without 'em)
AA Battery contacts
nice metric ruler (one of those triangle kinds)
10k mini pots (for internal video adjustments)
resistors: (to compliment the pots) (pick up extras!)
1 x 5100 (green, brown, red, gold)
1 x 1000 (brown, black, red, gold)
3 x 2000 (red, black, red, gold)
power switch
headphone jack
RCA plugs (to hook up to TV)
New bits for Dremel
List of things I already have to prevent people from wasting their posts:
Dremel
Soldering Iron
Plenty of solder
Test board
General Purpose PC board
Lots of wire
Wire stripper
Multimeter
If anyone can think of useful things I'm missing, please let me know.
A quick question that'll determine what more parts I pick up:
Since I'm getting rid of the 7808 on the Hip Gear, what do I need to construct an audio amp that runs on ~5v? Does someone have a diagram?
What kind of pot and resistors do I need?
What case are you using? If it's a GBO case you don't need the new headphone jack, you can use the GBO one. Heck you can use the Hip Gear screen headphone jack.
For the amp, just cut the whole audio amp PCB off the adjust board and recconect traces with wire. It can run off 3V-8V.
Last edited by G-force on Tue Aug 16, 2005 12:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Hmm…well you should make sure you have epoxy, extra soldering iron tips, a desoldering iron, desoldering braid (for when you mess up), solder sucker (for when you mess up on surface-mount components, and some clips for the multimeter (that will stay attached to the stuff when your hands are needed elsewhere). Also, I know of an audio amp that runs on 9v, but you don't want that…
I'm going to build a vacuum forming table like the one linked to from Doom Portables and make a custom case. Nothing too fancy, but just one where I don't have to have the cartridge shooting out the back; portrait layout.
I might use the headphone jack on the Hip Gear if I can successfully desolder it. I seem to have back luck taking things off.
usbcd36 wrote:Hmm…well you should make sure you have epoxy, extra soldering iron tips, a desoldering iron, desoldering braid (for when you mess up), solder sucker (for when you mess up on surface-mount components, and some clips for the multimeter (that will stay attached to the stuff when your hands are needed elsewhere). Also, I know of an audio amp that runs on 9v, but you don't want that…
How much easier is it to desolder using a desoldering iron as opposed to using a regular iron and sucker/plunger? I need all the help I can get in desoldering. To me, desoldering is like a road to failure. I'd rather just avoid it.
I agree, desoldering irons are good, but they don't work on surface-mount components (especially heat-sensitive ones). I had hell while trying to get RGB from my N64 (but in the end, I did come up with a better method!).
G-force wrote:It's a million times easier. Trust me, get it. You won't be sorry. You do have to clean out the tip every now and then but it's no biggie.
I desoldered the famicom port on the NOAC in about 5 minutes with it.
Wow, I guess with that I wouldn't have rendered my first project a failure, a SNESp. I screwed up that poor SNES mini board trying to desolder the AV thingamajig in the back. That damn pin just wouldn't come out! I'll make sure I get a desoldering gun then, thanks.
Something else...
When I took apart the Hip Screen there were these soft rubbery sticky (damn sticky) things that were between the screen and the main board. I'm thinking of one place in my design where something like that will serve a good protection for some of the components. I mention this because it's especially difficult getting the cart in and out of these new replacement cart connectors, and I don't want the force of shoving or pulling to destroy the innards. Would an electronics store have something of this sort?
Sorry, what are these? How are they mounted differently?
He (not she ) means stuff that is only held on with solder on the top of the board, instead of going through a hole in the board. Like the proccessor on a SNES, that's a surface mount chip.
For desoldering those types of pins, use desoldering braid.
G-force wrote:For desoldering those types of pins, use desoldering braid.
Or you can use a Chip-quik kit, they work well for stuff with a lot of pins, but they're expensive. Basically, you put a special type of flux from a syringe onto the pins, then you melt a low-temp alloy onto the flux, finally, you heat up the alloy and the chip pulls away.
That works on stuff like the cartridge slot, but surface mount components are more susceptible to heat damage and if you point a heat gun at the top of a SNES board, chances are that EVERY chip is gonna fall off. G-force is right, use a desoldering braid for removing a surface mount chip, or if it is a big chip, use a chip-quik. For small mistakes, use a solder sucker to take excess solder off of a chip.
) means stuff that is only held on with solder on the top of the board, instead of going through a hole in the board. Like the proccessor on a SNES, that's a surface mount chip.