Whew!

[usbcd36]

I need help, I have a PSone screen and an N64 which I am trying to use with it. I want it to use the RGB outputs/inputs, so I opened up the screen and disconnected the AV plug/socket board. Then I desoldered the socket and connected the RGB from the N64 up to the socket. I replaced the board in the PSone and plugged power into the screen (keep in mind that it wasn't connected to ANYTHING at this point, just the internals of the screen minus the AV out jack. It didn't light up when I plugged it in, so I figured it might be that quirk with the +5v going to the pin on the screen board and attached another wire to the +5v in on the AV jack from the N64's AV connector. The wires attached between the N64 and the jack are as follows: Red, Green, Blue, Csync, Ground, +5v. When I plugged the screen into the jack, connected power to the screen and connected up the N64, it didn't light up, it just turned darker toward the left quarter of the screen. Whenever I turn on the N64, it does this, which leads me to believe that the +5v is getting to the screen. Thinking this might not be the entire problem, I bypassed the fuse on the screen, according to Ben's directions. When I connected it again, the exact same thing happened, did I blow something or is there something obvious I'm missing?

[Gamelver]

hmmmm....make sure ground's wired up right and all that, I suppose....check for shorts, too....also, make sure the LCD ribbon cable is properly insterted...if you've already checked all this, then it sounds like you may have a fried screen

[usbcd36]

It worked before, it has even done the left-dark thing before when I didn't have the power cable connected securely. If I have to get a new screen, I will be unhappy because they cost $30 and that is expensive when you don't have an income.

BTW, I am using a li-ion camera battery for power since the screen came without a power adapter. It has worked before, I even watched the whole Pirates of the Caribbean on a single charge. Is there a problem with it now?

Edit: I have determined that the problem is in the 7.5v line, as the screen's pixels change when power is connected (through the 7.5v line, strangely), but the speakers don't work and the bulb doesn't light up.

[Gamelver]

hmmm....sometimes, the voltage may not be high enough for the cathode tube to light up, so that may be your problem...try it with a 7.5V source and perhaps it'll work....if that works and you're still not getting any sound, trace the audio inputs to these two resistors (on the lower right side of the screen) and short those out....

[usbcd36]

Fully charged, the battery outputs about 8-8.5v, so it is definitely high enough. I am wondering if accidentally crushing the wire going to the cathode tube would short it out. Three times I have caught it in the case while closing it.

[Gamelver]

hmmm...that could be it...check to make sure it's getting to the tube, I guess...

[usbcd36]

Ok, whew! After taking a break (this constitutes community service, in this case, helping at the Hunger Center, and playing half a game of Metroid Fusion), I returned to my work area. I took apart the screen again and examined it. While plugging the ribbon cable in, I realized that it had only been halfway in before. Now the screen works (even the speakers!), but the backlight is still dead. This isn't really a problem, as I will be replacing it with white LEDs.

I'm also not going to bother checking the tube, I'd ruin a few multimeters that way.

[Gamelver]

well, I'm glad that your screen works ...good luck with the LED mod, too

[usbcd36]

Thanks, I am going to try my own variation: 2 LEDs where the end of each straight section of bulb was. This means that there will be 2 LEDs on the left side, one at the top, one at the bottom, facing right, and 4 LEDs on the right side, 2 facing right (one at the top and one at the bottom), 1 facing up (at the bottom) and 1 facing down (at the top). The wiring here is simple: the ones on the right are in 2 groups: top and bottom. They are wired in parallel to the ones directly across from them on the left. The 2 groups are both wired to their own resistor and the mod is pretty much like Ben's after that. Basically, it just doubles his circuit, adding 3 more LEDs and 1 resistor. Nothing is wired in series, and there is little chance of anything shorting out (the main candidate would be the LEDs that are together on the right side). I am also planning to use your tin foil mod and place a flattened sheet under the lowest piece of transparent plastic inside the light box. Naturally, I will also be cutting off the top of the screen, as I won't need it once the LED mod is complete.

[Gamelver]

sounds good ..take some pics if you can when you're done