Easiest NESP?

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rawls
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Easiest NESP?

Post by rawls »

Hey there. I see a lot of subjects where people are looking for the "easiest portable to build." Well, this is my entry. Basically, it is a Superjoy III with an Intec PS2 controller screen attached. Would've looked better if the Superjoy was black, but still not bad for a Frankencase.

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Some more pictures are located in the PortableNES folder here.

At its most basic, you only need to cut off the Intec screen, solder 5 wires from the screen to the Superjoy, and glue the screen on. I get worried about heat issues so I actually stuffed a switching regulator in the Superjoy complete with a (probably unnecessary) heatsink. I am waiting for a Family converter from LikSang and once I get that it should hopefully play regular NES games. Until then, it is 7600 in 1 for me.

FYI - The AC/DC power pack that comes with the Superjoy doesn't have enough amperage to power this thing, so I have to use a 1 amp 9V adapter. Also, if you want to run it off of batteries, it takes 8 NiMh (due to the high voltage requirements of the Intec screen). I had to build my own battery pack that attached to the Superjoy one. The reason all 8 batteries are outside is that the battery pack that comes with the Superjoy wouldn't even hold the four batteries it is supposed to (three would fit, but with four the thing wouldn't close) so I just bypassed it completely.

For you beginners, I am thinking that if you don't have any tools or anything, you can build this for about $75-100. The Intec controller is $20, the NOAC is $25, and tools and the like cover the rest (a Family converter is $13 shipped from LikSang).
Last edited by rawls on Tue Jul 05, 2005 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reaperman@home
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Post by Reaperman@home »

that's actually a really good idea. I didn't think those screens took that much voltage, though. a smaller infolithium could probably be forced to fit inside the standard battery compartment with minimum work.

the best part is that all the kiddies at the airport think you have a full N64p--it's a winner on all counts.

now if only I had one of those cheapo screens to sacrifice to build my own.

just one question: is standard size nintendo text legible on that screen--I just ask because I've never seen one in action, and I've had trouble with pocket TVs in the $50+ range.
G-force
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Post by G-force »

You know you can mod the screen to work on 6V (4AA's).

And that is a cool idea. Maybe you could remoce the fake analog stick and put the batterys in that handle part (after some dremeling of course)
rawls
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Post by rawls »

I thought about putting the bateries someplace else. I decided against it for two reasons:

1) I wanted to make this thing as simple as possible.

2) An NES cartridge will stick down further than the battery pack so the fact that the battery pack hangs down there so far doesn't matter too much.


Concerning modding the screen for 6V: Is that an LED mod, or do you just replace the 7808?
Dave
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Post by Dave »

I'm pretty sure the Intec screen can run straight off of 6v without any modding.
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rawls
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Post by rawls »

I just got the thing to run off of 5 AA NiMHs, but 4 won't do it (they aren't freshly charged but if the thing dies partly through their discharge cycle it is no good as far as I'm concerned). 4 alkalines would work, but who wants to use disposables.

Oh well, if I gotta use 5, I might as well use 8. It'll last just a bit longer when the batteries are almost dead.
G-force
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Post by G-force »

For the intec screen to run off 6V (or 4.8V in rechargeable batterys), you have to bypass the 7808.

Rawls, I don't think it's a good idea to test something with only partially charged batterys. Try charging them and then see what happens. Also for the NOAC to run off 4 rechargeables, you would probably have to bypass the 7805 on the NOAC board.
rawls
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Post by rawls »

I am using a switching regulator in the NOAC, so running it off of 4 recharchables won't matter. Also, if they aren't fully charged, it doesn't matter (as long as they aren't close to being fully discharged), as they hover around 1.2V for almost their whole discharge cycle. If I charge them all the way, the screen might work at first as the batteries get up to abou 1.35V at first, but quickly drop off. This can be deceiving.

Now, when you say bypass the 7808, do you mean put in an LDO version of it, or actually bypass it (i.e. send unregulated power into the screen - which doesn't sound like a good idea).
nos_slived
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Post by nos_slived »

They mean remove it, because you aren't overpowering it at 5V or 6V. You are fine unless you go over 8V.
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