NTSC 64 playing PAL games! update: screen alive!!!

[blaze3927]

congratulations to you indeed, with that fancy soldering are you gonna give the expansion slot relocation a whirl?

(page break fail)

[OhSnap!]

I dunno... i will see how the cart slot goes first

oh and i also just did the rgb mod on the board but i am looking for pinout for the avmulti for the psone screen. i am also looking for a power brick that will run my screen, i need 7.5v right?.

forgot to mention too that i bought a multimeter today its a nice one too.

i have also noticed that i am not doing to badly on the uber budget aspect of this project, only 64 aussie bucks so far. the batteries are like 30 and the plastic for the case is like 20, so assuming all goes to plan this will set me back $114AUD which is still acceptable for somebody on a budget who wants to do something like this.

[blaze3927]

7.5v for the screen should be fine,plastic for the case can be cheaper, I picked up 10 sheets of 2mm white styrene (A4) for $7 shipped.

[OhSnap!]

well i want to get 2 blocks about 1/2" thick to cnc each side out of. it will be good for accuracy and will allow me to design it and see exactly how it will look when it is finished.

[OhSnap!]

ok, i went ahead and started on the cart slot relocation. i removed the expansion slot on the back, cutting off all the pins and detattched the cart slot on the front. i bent all the pins flat and i was having a look at where it would be placed onthe unit. i decided here would be a good choice:



it means that there is no need to relocate the memory expansion slot as it will sit in the mount for the cartridge. i will be trimming the 2-3mm of ground still on the top of the exp. pak though.
the screen will sit nice and flat on the back of the board.
i have two concerns:
1-if i was to drill some air vents for the processor and stuff, the cartridge would cover them up. i don't want to put a fan in though.
2-the 4 ports on the bottom for the other controllers (i plan to keep them so i can play with friends) will be upside down.

[blaze3927]

relocating the con troller ports is easy plus it can make for s smaller portable if you look into the LOB64 port or hatever its called, as for ventalation for the chips, a small fan blowing air out the cart slot would do fine. if not you could just mount the cart slot a little bit higher on the board

[bacteria]

Good, pleased to see the PIF chip I sent works!

Project coming on nicely!

[OhSnap!]

i have successfully relocated the cart slot

i did it the first time like this:






Oh noe itz the flying spaghetti monster!!!!! fleeeeee!


but as you all can see the wire was phat as!!!

so begrudgingly i redid it with ide cable. i decided to not separate the wires fully as i beilieved this would prevent me from making mistakes., it did but it made life a billion times harder



I also made the cable too long so i had to desolder all the connections to the cart slot and cut it shorter then re-twist, tin and solder it all again



but i am happy with the result:



i really want to test it but i cant find a power brick that will let me run the screen. so i either have to wait for the battery to come in or rig up the rgb to a cable and use it on my tv, i am just not sure how to go about that.

[blaze3927]

nice work but ide cable can still be a bit on the rigid side, as for testing why not just crack open the screen and hook her up to an 7-9v power supply? or get a 7808 regulator (I could give you a couple for free if you give me your shipping address)

[OhSnap!]

so it isnt vitally important that the screen gets 7.5 volts?

[blaze3927]

i think 7 - 9v is ok, i think it has a 7805 regulator onboard anyway. the voltage rating on most appliances can usually work with +/- %25

[marshallh]

the video decoder runs off the unregulated input. It needs at least 6.9v and will fry/not work if you do any more than 9 volts.

[OhSnap!]

how much does the amperage matter?

[OhSnap!]

well i was looking around my house for power brick that suited my need and that would fit in my screens socket so it didn't have to cut the end off and switch out the connector.
i got the power brick from my eeepc and decided to see if it would work because when i was in england it had powered a gamecube screen with no isssues. so i decided to unplug it and just see if it would actually fit in the socket (this was before marshall posted the previous comment). it did but it i knew it was 12v (too high) and when i plugged it in the small charge left in its internal capacitors powered it on for a fraction of a second. i was terrified i had blown the screen. i left it for a few hours and put a 5v on in to check that it still powered on and it seems fine
i am still not sure it is definitely ok, i guess i will have to wait till i find a power brick that is right for it.
i did find one that is 7.5v 1a, but the connector on the end is different. could i just hook that up by cutting of the end and putting on one that will fit, just for testing. all noobish questions i know but this screen was expensice and i have to be sure

[OhSnap!]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zRUYAJ989s

video of the n64 working post pif chip replacement. any ideas on how i can fix the black and white/ scan line issue. i am no too worried about it but i need av to work for the av out function i will be adding. rgb gets a perfect picture.

when i get my batteries on monday i will start designing the case in solid edge v20