Basically, inside of the gamecube, there's the motherboard with a relatively large, but short heatsink on the powerPC CPU, with the DVD drive unit that sits ontop of the motherboard and plugs into it (plug on the bottom of DVD drive, one on top of motherboard.Hackmodford wrote:I'm going to try my hand at a Gamecube. I've got a gamecube (gonna buy it Tomorrow $30 gamestop) Got a couple PSone screens lying around and got smashbrother up in my dresser![]()
Now I've never seen the inside and I want to know is what can you do to make it thinner? Get rid of the Power board right? Bend mod heatsinks. Is there anything you can do to the GCD drive? has anyone laid it to the side of the portable? Should I just forget rumble packs? What are the best batteries to get?
I'm thinking of going the bondo case method can anyone provide any helpful advice?
Thanx
P.S. Yes the xbox laptop is a dead project but I did manage to softmod it and that was awesome.
Starting a GCp
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nevermind1534
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Re: Starting a GCp
Kyo wrote:"does anyone here know how to fly a plane?"
"STAND BACK EVERYBODY, I HAVE A FAKE ID"
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gamecube6
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Re: Starting a GCp
Wow that's expensive.Hackmodford wrote:http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion186507 ... ector.aspx
Here's a cool battery pack I found... looks extremely small and since I don't need 12v just atleast 5v it should work right?
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jjhammerstein
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Re: Starting a GCp
65 mm height x 73 mm length x 37 mm thickness
Isn't small at all.
Isn't small at all.
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gamecube6
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Re: Starting a GCp
If you don't want to spend much on batteries and don't mind the extra bulk, I'll suggest this
http://www.power101.com/item.htm?id=60010
6000mAh for about $10 bucks plus 10 shipping.
http://www.power101.com/item.htm?id=60010
6000mAh for about $10 bucks plus 10 shipping.
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jjhammerstein
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jjhammerstein
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Re: Starting a GCp
Bacteria uses these.
Get two if you really want.
Get two if you really want.
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ShockSlayer
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Re: Starting a GCp
Now that all of the portable-less(don't count me on that, I haven't looked all of you up, but I'm good at GC) noobs have finished jabbering, Let me tell you what I think you should do.
First off, let me tell you that I do not recommend you go the 7.2v route, as it has yet to be done in a portable.
So you will need to use the original powerboard, unless it is one with a yellow inductor on it, in which case, notify me, and I will pm you about a possible hack you can do to that powerboard in order to get it to run off of 7.2v natively, it an old discussion ER and I had, that brand of powerboard has a single TI chip on the bottom, to which we found a datasheet, that indicated an input pin, possibly meaning that we would not need 12v at all.
Anyways, moving onto what you should do: Take the 11.1v route. The gamecube's powerboard can run off of 10v-12v, but no less than 10v(thanks techknott). I highly reccomend these batteries.
These + a charger, and then use Mario's Guide to a battery LED indicator, and use two 5.1v zener Diodes in series to get a 10.2v indicator, which will let you know 30 minutes before the battery cuts out, as there are no signs, because you will need to wire up a PTH78000(or is it PTN78000?) to get 7.5v, as 11.1v will fry the screen(assuming its a psone.) It comes with a LED indicator, but unless you check it(you have to press a button to do so, it does not stay on automatically, and it does not cut on when the level drops) then you won't know when your battery is dying, hence why yo need to build a low power LED.
These batteries will give you ~2 hours of playtime, with a fan(you will need a decent fan blowing on the gamecube's heatsinks) The LED indicator I built comes on slowly, going from dim to bright, bright indicating that the portable is about to die.
As far as the case, what kind of design were you thinking? That would help us with being able to tell you what you can do.
SS
First off, let me tell you that I do not recommend you go the 7.2v route, as it has yet to be done in a portable.
Anyways, moving onto what you should do: Take the 11.1v route. The gamecube's powerboard can run off of 10v-12v, but no less than 10v(thanks techknott). I highly reccomend these batteries.
These + a charger, and then use Mario's Guide to a battery LED indicator, and use two 5.1v zener Diodes in series to get a 10.2v indicator, which will let you know 30 minutes before the battery cuts out, as there are no signs, because you will need to wire up a PTH78000(or is it PTN78000?) to get 7.5v, as 11.1v will fry the screen(assuming its a psone.) It comes with a LED indicator, but unless you check it(you have to press a button to do so, it does not stay on automatically, and it does not cut on when the level drops) then you won't know when your battery is dying, hence why yo need to build a low power LED.
These batteries will give you ~2 hours of playtime, with a fan(you will need a decent fan blowing on the gamecube's heatsinks) The LED indicator I built comes on slowly, going from dim to bright, bright indicating that the portable is about to die.
As far as the case, what kind of design were you thinking? That would help us with being able to tell you what you can do.
SS
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ShockSlayer
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Re: Starting a GCp
Your stuck with the dvd drive, don't think thin. 
You do know that the batteries I linked can be split apart into 3 cells?
SS
You do know that the batteries I linked can be split apart into 3 cells?
SS
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ShockSlayer
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Re: Starting a GCp
Oh, I should mention: The reason why I highly suggest NOT doing the 7.4v route is that you have to find a way to power the 1.9v and the 3.43v lines by either linear regulators or some other way, which is the only real challenge. No one has successfully done THAT, the 5v part is easy.
SS
SS
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jjhammerstein
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Re: Starting a GCp
Why can't you just use a couple of the regulators used for N64Ps?
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nevermind1534
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Re: Starting a GCp
Either one can be better depending on the situation. if you find one that is perfect, get it and attach it with some arctic silver thermal adhesive if you know that it's going to be staying. Otherwise, just bend, chop up, etc. the existing one.
Kyo wrote:"does anyone here know how to fly a plane?"
"STAND BACK EVERYBODY, I HAVE A FAKE ID"
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ShockSlayer
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Re: Starting a GCp
Why can't you just use a couple of the regulators used for N64Ps?
You don't think I tried? Some one who would have a lot of those regulators? I did. It didn't work. Not even once. Nothing. At all. Electric Rain and I worked on it, and we couldn't come up with anything. The closest I ever got to running the GC off of 7.2v was Skyone's regulators, which only half worked.Yeah I don't see what's so hard about that. I got one of those TI regulators once. All I had to do was sodder a resistor and a capicitor and wallah! The correct voltage.
It's been brought up and tried before, and it didn't work. Feel free to try to prove me wrong, either way I win.
SS
EDIT: Figured I could be helpful: I used the same method that ben did with the Wii heatsink. But instead of a vice(which I did try), I used a sledgehammer.
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Re: Starting a GCp
having keyboard issues there, Hack? or should I say "having+keyboard+issues+there,+Hack%3F" 
Re: Starting a GCp
Looks like he posted from a phone or something along those lines.grossaffe wrote:having keyboard issues there, Hack? or should I say "having+keyboard+issues+there,+Hack%3F"


