Okay, I'll use 22awg... it should hold up to 7 amps. I think clear-flux solder is just solder with flux in it.XCVG wrote: For the wire 22awg should be okay. 18 would be better if you can find some.
I've never heard of clear-flux solder so you should probably use the rosin core.
Koopatronics N64p v1.0 (STATUS: assembling batteries)
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deviouskoopa
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deviouskoopa
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:19 am
- Location: Virginia Tech
Okay I soldered up 1 module (2 cells, protection board) and I'm going to try out my charger now. Soldering wire to the flat end of the battery is really damn hard, anyone got any tips? Right now I'm just piling on solder until the wire is encased and passes a "jerk test," but there's gotta be an easier way...
EDIT:
My batteries measure 8.3V when fully charged, but I read that when connected to the screen, etc (loaded), the voltage is lower and therefore safe for the screen. Will 8.3V unloaded be too much for my Zenith ps1 screen? Just making sure I don't fry one of the suckers haha
EDIT:
My batteries measure 8.3V when fully charged, but I read that when connected to the screen, etc (loaded), the voltage is lower and therefore safe for the screen. Will 8.3V unloaded be too much for my Zenith ps1 screen? Just making sure I don't fry one of the suckers haha
Re: Koopatronics N64p v1.0 (STATUS: assembling batteries)
8.3V is fine for a PS1 screen. It can handle up to 9V.