Simple compatibility question.

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_Ivan_
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Simple compatibility question.

Post by _Ivan_ »

Would these three parts work correctly together to make an LED flashlight if I follow this plan: http://www.instructables.com/id/SMJCJDYFDSE96EP/? Mainly, I'm concerned about voltage and stuff; that kind of thing is over my head. :roll:

Parts in question:
LED
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... mber=G1005

Switch
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... ber=G1801A

Battery
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... ber=G15380


While I'm asking questions here anyway, would these parts be suitable for overclocking a gameboy (all gameboy models use the same type of 4MHz crystal default, right?)?
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... ber=G16719 and http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... mber=G3836
The site requires a $10 minimum order, so I decided that I might as well take up the project of overclocking a gameboy also.

Thanks. :)
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Yes, yes, yes, yes, and yeah.

Good luck with your projects. :)
_Ivan_
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Post by _Ivan_ »

Sweet, thanks a lot. Now I'm off to order me some goodies. :)
Valium
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Post by Valium »

I'd look for a battery that has tabs, much easier to work with.

Why are you making a flashlight with a red LED?
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Tibia
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Post by Tibia »

Red light doesn't make your pupils dialate and affect your night vision. That's why the tail lights of cars are red. It illuminates, but unlike white light, you don't have to wait for your eyes to readjust to the darkness.

I use a red flashlight for just about everything. I just taped theatre light gels over the lenses.
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timmeh87
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Post by timmeh87 »

You are putting a resistor in there somewhere right?
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Valium
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Post by Valium »

Tibia wrote:Red light doesn't make your pupils dialate and affect your night vision. That's why the tail lights of cars are red. It illuminates, but unlike white light, you don't have to wait for your eyes to readjust to the darkness.

I use a red flashlight for just about everything. I just taped theatre light gels over the lenses.
I gotcha, makes sense.
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Kyo
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Post by Kyo »

i built me a small LED flashlight with a 3 AA battery holder, a potentiometer, a switch, a tact switch and five white LEDs. It worked great, but I don't actually have a real use for it, I was just bored
_Ivan_
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Post by _Ivan_ »

timmeh87 wrote:You are putting a resistor in there somewhere right?
This might sound stupid, but do I need one? The diagram that I was planning on following didn't have one, so I figured that I didn't need one myself. That's why I was wondering if the voltages (or whatever) of all the parts were compatible. Would the flashlight not work without a resistor?
bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

If the LED's are rated to work at a lower voltage than a battery, then you need a resistor so you don't blow the LED's; if they match, ie LED 3v and battery 3v, all should be fine.
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_Ivan_
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Post by _Ivan_ »

bacteria wrote:If the LED's are rated to work at a lower voltage than a battery, then you need a resistor so you don't blow the LED's; if they match, ie LED 3v and battery 3v, all should be fine.
That makes sense, but what do I do when I don't know the voltage? The "detailed description" under the LED doesn't mention voltage; it only says, "T1 3/4 (5mm) Red Jumbo LED with Diffused Red Lens, Standard Brightness. Prime, brand new. Package of 7. G1005." I found on the internet that most red LEDs take 2V. Would that be safe estimate for these LEDs?
Tibia
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Post by Tibia »

Yeah, that's a pretty safe estimate. I was looking at general data sheets for t1 LEDs, and they seem to take between 1.85V with a 2.5V max.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Use that link to calculate what resistors to get.

Source voltage = the voltage of the batteries.
Diode forward voltage= the voltage of the LED (in this case, you're estimating 2v)
Diode forward current = the mA rating of the LED (T1's are generally about 30 mA)


If you're planning on using more than one LED, there's a link for calculating that on the same page. Hope it helps.
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_Ivan_
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Post by _Ivan_ »

Thanks, that helped a lot.
nitro2k01
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Post by nitro2k01 »

According to the battery information page, and according to my own experience, these batteries can't give enough current to blow the LED. So my advice is to go without a resistor. Or if you're worried, buy two LEDs and try using one of them without a resistor. If it works you can still connect both the LEDs to the flashligt.
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Last edited by nitro2k01 tomorrow, 1:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
DSFARGEG
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Post by DSFARGEG »

Even if the battery doesn't have enough voltage to blow the LED, a resistor will help the LED last longer than it would without the resistor, so a resistor is always a good idea.
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