Neep help with a PSone type screen, from Mintek portable DVD

[diy_guy]

First off this screen is the same as a PSone screen, just a different controller. I would like help to find the inputs to give it RCA type inputs.

Okay I pulled a dud Mintek MDP-5860 portable DVD player from someones trash a while back and decided that the screen looked ripe for the picking!

The screen is a LTS500Q1-GF3
From my online research I think this is the same model screen in the PSone display unit. But it's a different controller circuit.
The controller circuit attached via ribbon cable is centered on a AN2546FM TFT LCD color monitor controller IC. Attached are links to the monitor and IC official .pdf datasheets.
The Controller circuit has a 20-pin cable (the one with the wide thin connector), and a 3-pin cable (red, white, black wires)
2 small speakers attached

I wan't to be able to make this a stand alone monitor that I can connect audio/video inputs from various sources to and play. Is this possible and what can I expect to be able to connect to? As well as how can I accomplish it? I've searched all over the internet and I believe this site is my best chance.

Really I just need help figuring out what to solder and where.

LTS500Q1 Datasheet http://us.f13.yahoofs.com/bc/4422794am3 ... HBqS9u0wRJ
AN2546FH Datasheet http://us.f13.yahoofs.com/bc/4422794am3 ... HBQf60V_U1

[marshallh]

Do you see a 3.58MHz quartz crystal anywhere on the board(s)? If you don't, you're screwed. It's the NTSC frequency which means it will accept composite video.

First I'd get power to it, and touch composite video to each pin on the connector. Make sure you use something cheap like a TV game because it might fry. But that will help you find which pin is composite video. Also make sure you have your grounds connected.

[diy_guy]

Yes it has a 3.5795mhz crystal next to the controller IC chip (top pic, silver rectangle to the left of the AN2546FH IC). From what I can tell, pins:

From the AN2546FH-A commercial Datasheet:
Same for Conposite, Component, and Analog RGB Inputs;
2, 3, 4, 5 = R-Y out, B-Y out, R-Y in, B-Y in
8, 9, 10 = Rin1, Gin1, Bin1
11, 12, 13 = Rdet., Gdet., Bdet. (grounded w/1uf cap)
14, 15, 16 = Rin2, Gin2, Bin2
It appears that the RGBin1 set is not being used but RGBdet. and RGBin2 are being used and they have pads I sould solder to. Would RGBin2 set be the right ones to try first, what voltage should I use from my video source? Also Where do I start looking for power inputs, the DVD unit is shot so I can't prod around on that, I think it might be the red, wht, blk wires that are bundled into the grey cable to the 3pin connector. What kind of power supply should I use, will a 6v batt pack work, and what will it do if it works (what should I look for)?

[diy_guy]

Probing around with a 3v battery pack I found that if I put +3v to the screen metal frame which is grounded and put -3v to pin 9 or 10 on the grey 20pin cable that comes from the DVD player I get lots of thin multi colored and broken lines jump across the screen and when I disconnect tey fade away in about 2 sec. Other places probing around the screen will actually seem to darken from what it looks like in it's off state. Am I gettin close?

[Copter64]

My g/f was throwing it away, so i decided to take my minor electrical knowledge and see what i can do. I have the exact same setup on my desk and wanted to see if anything else has come of it. I would also like to learn how the video signals work going from one to anouter, cause i would like to make a computer case mod to show temp. etc etc

If you are still looking into it or found somthing out let me know.

Copter64@gmail.com to get my the quickest

[bacteria]

This could be interesting - an alternative, and smaller one at that, to the PSone screen?

[Axaj]

I think you're gettin close, so keep trying and you'll hit the jackpot!

[Copter64]

Looking at the schematic of the IC, pin 52 is composite video, like RCA. Now looking closely at the board, pin 52 is connected to one side of the crystal,

now from here i was guessing the 2 big contacts on the left of the crystal have somthing to do with the crystal as well.

later i am going to try connecting a compsite to those contacts, and apply power to the 3 pin connector.

The three pin connector is most likely setup to be a direct power source, the red being the hot, black is ground, and white i think is a signal wire to turn the board on.

If anyone is able to provide any other clues please do.

[diy_guy]

Okay so the red white black wires apparently don't power the unit. Either that or my 7.2V 1700mAh Li-ion power supply isn't sufficient. Other than that I'm not really sure where to put power to, hopefully I haven't damaged to IC or anything already with my not-so-suddle prodding around.
Any suggestions please tell.

Also I know my links to the datasheets are broken so if anyone wants a copy of them pm me your email.

Sorry it's been so long since my last post on this. I put it up for awhile to clear my head and I moved to AZ. Resurrected the project today so hopefully more (successful) news will follow.

[bacteria]

Aren't you able to plug the screen back into your DVD player, power it up and see which of the wires are positive and negative? Might be the three wires are audio, ground and composite rather than power?

[diy_guy]

dvd player is trashed. I've managed to probe out that the black wire is goin to ground but the red wire is goin to the video ic pin 55 which is labeled as Y-det and described in the datasheet as Y-system clamp detection pin.

[diy_guy]

Well I found why I can't get power through that red wire. There's a small capacitor that I'm not getting continuity through, thinking it might be bad.

uhg...what do I do now?
Can I replace that with a different cap? How do I find out it's specs?

[bacteria]

Might be why the system was in the bin - probably didn't work!

Can you replace the capacitor, or by-pass it?

[diy_guy]

by-passed it, still nogo. Think the ic might be gone too. if that cap was gone, probably more gone too, can't bypass everything. screen might still be good if H could get ahold of a new controller.

[Copter64]

by-passed it, still nogo. Think the ic might be gone too. if that cap was gone, probably more gone too, can't bypass everything. screen might still be good if H could get ahold of a new controller.

if i remember it right in physics a capacitor won't have a continuty because the two contacts on a capacitor are isulated from each other, so i doubt it is that. I'll need to spend more time with it and a multimeter. The way i was going to do it is hit each of the 23 wires (20+3) and then go to each pin on the IC to see which has the least resistance to each lead, and then would reveal which pin each wire belongs to, but even then do any of the wires directly relate to the IC on the back? We need an electronics major, I knew i shouldn't have took up networking, LOL.