NES 2

hailrazer · Post by **hailrazer** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:18 pm

Portable making is a game of millimeters not inches. So every little bit helps

(And no perverted statements guys, i was being serious)

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:07 pm

WTB NES 2 >_> ...........

Bibin · Post by **Bibin** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:50 pm

Rekarp wrote:
lovablechevy wrote:
Bibin wrote:Have fun with your perpendicular cartridge slot, which will render your portable uselessly unportable.
umm... ever heard of relocating a cart slot...?
what are you smokin Bibin?

Ever heard of "that's an obnoxious that adds extra time to a project that could easily not require this"? Also, RF video is awful.

lovablechevy wrote:
Dr. KillGood wrote:LOL Just use the original! Same freaking size!
what the crap school did you go to? where were you taught that:

4 1/8" = 5 1/4"
6 1/8" = 7 3/4"

????

remind me to never send my kids to that school...

i also haven't modded my nes 2 in any way. the rf box and everything is still on. so the 6 1/8" will be even shorter once i do that.

it's 1 1/8" x 1 5/8" smaller right now.

You can cut down the toaster NES board to nearly those dimensions, if not better. Just use a toaster.

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:00 pm

Bibin wrote:
Rekarp wrote:
lovablechevy wrote:
Bibin wrote:Have fun with your perpendicular cartridge slot, which will render your portable uselessly unportable.
umm... ever heard of relocating a cart slot...?
what are you smokin Bibin?
Ever heard of "that's an obnoxious that adds extra time to a project that could easily not require this"? Also, RF video is awful.

lovablechevy wrote:
Dr. KillGood wrote:LOL Just use the original! Same freaking size!
what the crap school did you go to? where were you taught that:

4 1/8" = 5 1/4"
6 1/8" = 7 3/4"

????

remind me to never send my kids to that school...

i also haven't modded my nes 2 in any way. the rf box and everything is still on. so the 6 1/8" will be even shorter once i do that.

it's 1 1/8" x 1 5/8" smaller right now.
You can cut down the toaster NES board to nearly those dimensions, if not better. Just use a toaster.

A cart slot relocation takes an hour if you know what your doing. Theres a composite mod for the NES 2. From the looks of it you can cut a lot of that Ground trim off this board.

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:14 pm

Bibin wrote:You can cut down the toaster NES board to nearly those dimensions, if not better. Just use a toaster.

stop telling me what to do. it's my nes, i'll do what i please with it. i already stated i don't own a toaster and have no desire to acquire one.

Bibin · Post by **Bibin** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:09 pm

You don't have to take my advice; similarly, I don't have to stop giving it. Cart slot relocations can be quick, but are obnoxious and a tedious process without a good iron and lots of patience.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:07 am

Bibin wrote:You don't have to take my advice; similarly, I don't have to stop giving it. Cart slot relocations can be quick, but are obnoxious and a tedious process without a good iron and lots of patience.

Now, now, calm down!

It is easy to relocate a cart slot - the wiring part anyway is straightforward. A>A, B>B etc. How you mount the subsequent cart afterwards into the casing is harder.

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:59 am

bacteria wrote:
Bibin wrote:You don't have to take my advice; similarly, I don't have to stop giving it. Cart slot relocations can be quick, but are obnoxious and a tedious process without a good iron and lots of patience.
Now, now, calm down!

It is easy to relocate a cart slot - the wiring part anyway is straightforward. A>A, B>B etc. How you mount the subsequent cart afterwards into the casing is harder.

Agreed. But thats where High strength hotglue comes in handy

hailrazer · Post by **hailrazer** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:05 am

Rekarp wrote:
Agreed. But thats where High strength hotglue comes in handy

Are you talking about mounting the cart slot with hot glue ?

If so I would advise heavily against this.

I have bought two systems from this site (L64 and CherryBomb) and I had to take the systems apart and remount the cart slots with L brackets and bolts because they broke from being mounted with just hot glue.

Hot glue can't support long term use from sliding carts in and out.

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:06 am

hailrazer wrote:
Rekarp wrote:
Agreed. But thats where High strength hotglue comes in handy
Are you talking about mounting the cart slot with hot glue ?

If so I would advise heavily against this.

I have bought two systems from this site (L64 and CherryBomb) and I had to take the systems apart and remount the cart slots with L brackets and bolts because they broke from being mounted with just hot glue.

Hot glue can't support long term use from sliding carts in and out.

Theres a special kind of hotglue thats yellow in color thats stronger then your average hotglue. I have portables that are over a year old out in this world that the cart slot has not come off yet with the stuff.

hailrazer · Post by **hailrazer** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:10 am

Rekarp wrote:
Theres a special kind of hotglue thats yellow in color thats stronger then your average hotglue. I have portables that are over a year old out in this world that the cart slot has not come off yet with the stuff.

I have a system being held together with duct tape that is working fine, but I still don't recommend it.

Yea I work with hot glue in my business so I know all about which ones work best with different conditions. But the fact is that hot glue does not bond with plastic. That's why at almost anytime with a little effort you can peel it off even after it has dried for weeks.

So I don't recommend it for cart slots. To much twisting and pulling/pushing to allow it to hold forever.

But that is just my opinion.

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:14 am

Well What I do is use a aluminum screw standoff so the plastic is attached via screw and the metal is attached to the wood. Scuffing up the metal with some sand paper helps allot to.

hailrazer · Post by **hailrazer** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:18 am

Rekarp wrote:Well What I do is use a aluminum screw standoff so the plastic is attached via screw and the metal is attached to the wood. Scuffing up the metal with some sand paper helps allot to.

Yea that would work better.

In the L64 I added plastic standoffs and then epoxied them to the case and then mounted the N64 board to them. Then I mounted the cart slot with L brackets to the N64 board.

That made it nice and secure.

Quetzalcoatlus · Post by **Quetzalcoatlus** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:20 am

Bibin wrote: Ever heard of "that's an obnoxious that adds extra time to a project that could easily not require this"?

In order to get the original NES board close to the width of the NES2's board, you would have to get rid of the huge plastic cartridge slot assembly and solder on a different cartridge slot anyway, so that's a moot point. And no matter how much you cut down the original NES board, it will still be significantly longer than an unmodified NES 2 board, as seen here:

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:20 am

hailrazer wrote:
Rekarp wrote:Well What I do is use a aluminum screw standoff so the plastic is attached via screw and the metal is attached to the wood. Scuffing up the metal with some sand paper helps allot to.
Yea that would work better.

In the L64 I added plastic standoffs and then epoxied them to the case and then mounted the N64 board to them. Then I mounted the cart slot with L brackets to the N64 board.

That made it nice and secure.

I tried epoxying the cart slot once but I found the kind I bought was to brittle and didn't allow enough "flex" so it would crack at the metal joint. What brand do you recommend?