Colecovision Power Supply

trueyanksfan · Post by **trueyanksfan** » Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:52 pm

Thank you everyone. The computer power supply worked like a charm! I am going to connect the end of the cable that was with the original power supply so I can leave the console itself in tact. I just have to think of a way to improve the look of that big AT supply (or just hide it from view).

Anyway, thanks again.

Greg2600 · Post by **Greg2600** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:18 pm

I also got a hold of a Colecovision today, and like this poster, all I get is a black screen, no video, no sound, nothing. How exactly did you use a computer's power supply on a Colecovision? The plugs are not the same.

APHawkes · Post by **APHawkes** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:54 pm

Hi Greg, I see you're new here. Normally, I'd pick on you, call you a noob, and tell you to search. But I'm stuck at home with little to do, so I'll explain a bit.

I'm sure what he did was figure out what voltages went to which wires on the original colecovision power supply. There are probably a few websites with this information as well. It would be good to double, nay, triple-check all info before proceeding.

Then, you'd need to find out the voltages for the various connectors from the PC power supply. Make sure this is an AT (non-ATX) power supply, as the newer ones are not as straight-forward to power up. There's definitely info about these connectors - even on wikipedia. Google is your friend.

The next step would be to snip the wires from the original power supply and splice them into the pc power supply. This should be done with solder, as the connection is much better than a crimp connector. And it should be insulated with heat-shrink tubing, not electrical tape.

Finally, do a triple-check of the connection. Power up the power supply without the colecovision board attached just to make sure you didn't short anything out. Then, plug it all up, cross your fingers, and hope for the best.

But first, check the power switch on the colecovision power supply first. It's their Achilles heel.

trueyanksfan · Post by **trueyanksfan** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:56 pm

First, make sure that the power supply is your problem. Open up the CV and use a multimeter to test the voltages coming in from the power supply both with the switch in the off position, and then in the on position. The pin outs are ground, +12v, -5v, and +5v. If you are getting the correct readings both on and off, the problem is not your power supply, but more likely your on/off switch. If you are not getting those voltages, then you can be fairly sure it is power supply.

A standard AT power supply will output those voltages. Just surf the net and you can get the proper color codings. I cut the cable off of my CV power supply and simply spliced the 4 wires. I did, however, need to jumper my PC power supply in lieu of the on/off switch. Just take your time and check voltages with your multimeter each time so that you don't fry anything.

Good luck.

trueyanksfan · Post by **trueyanksfan** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:01 pm

APHawkes-I see we were posting at the exact same time. It looks like we said basically the same thing, except I think I will take your advice and use the heat shrink tubing. (I originally cheesed out with electrical tape.)

palmertech · Post by **palmertech** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:24 pm

On the topic of opening stuff with caps... When I was 12 (And a n00b, much wiser now), I opened up a TV. "wooh, look at that giant battery! I should touch it!"..... ZAAAAAAPP!! Flung me right from my chair. Luckily, I lived. I think.