Nuky's SNES Portable in the works

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:33 pm

Follow the traces back to the chip, and solder to it's pins. That'll work as well as be smaller.

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:05 pm

its pins? where are those?

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:08 pm

The pieces of metal sticking out of the chip that are soldered to the leads.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:09 pm

nuky nuclear wrote:its pins? where are those?

The pins (legs) on the chips themselves. Make sure you are good at soldering before attempting!

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:29 pm

My dad does a lot of the harder soldering because he is good at wiring and soldering. are these the legs

Also i believe i have all that i need to finish my project. i got the batteries, LEDs, resistor for the screen and some other stuff. is there anything else i need for my system?

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:02 pm

No, the chip is in the middle of the controller board. It's the main component of the whole thing, all the leads go into it.

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:51 pm

Valium wrote:No, the chip is in the middle of the controller board. It's the main component of the whole thing, all the leads go into it.

are you talking about that small black square chip? I did plan to solder wires to that aswell but i have to run wires from each button trace. But my big problem is that the wires wont stick to the traces well. I was considering buying push button triggers for the buttons and making my own controller and running wires to the chip for each button. would that be easier?

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:47 am

I would really like to use the cut up controller board over the push button tact switches because i think the tact switches would click too loud. I cant get the wires to stick to the traces for the controller. I have liquid flux but i am wondering if petroleum based flux would work better. Is there something i am doing wrong? Also after awhile the soldering iron burns the trace clear off. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make this work? i already know about the chip that all the wires will go to. Also where is the ground for each section of the control board? i have a picture of the D-pad board that i have cut in an earlier post, i know where each trace is but i dont know where that sections ground is. thanks for any help in advance. i want to get this thing done soon.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:36 am

Tact switches are not loud, but they have little play to activate. Think of a GBA SP or NDS and you get the idea. Mushy buttons (rubber contact pads) are best, no doubt, however the rubber pad has to lay flat on the mobo.

Taking your pic:

Circles are easy solder points. Blue is ground, the other colours are obvious as to orientation.

Your best bet is, unless space is an issue, to hack up another controller to use as the button pressing and its wires wired to your main controller - saves a fair bit of hassle.

Lightly and gently, touch the traces with a sanding drum on your dremel so expose the copper, I use a flux pen then to dab on the copper, then add a little solder to the spot - you can then solder a wire to that point.

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:31 am

bacteria wrote:Tact switches are not loud, but they have little play to activate. Think of a GBA SP or NDS and you get the idea. Mushy buttons (rubber contact pads) are best, no doubt, however the rubber pad has to lay flat on the mobo.

Taking your pic:

Circles are easy solder points. Blue is ground, the other colours are obvious as to orientation.

Your best bet is, unless space is an issue, to hack up another controller to use as the button pressing and its wires wired to your main controller - saves a fair bit of hassle.

Lightly and gently, touch the traces with a sanding drum on your dremel so expose the copper, I use a flux pen then to dab on the copper, then add a little solder to the spot - you can then solder a wire to that point.

this is probably a stupid question but what do you mean by button pressing?

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:52 am

nuky nuclear wrote:this is probably a stupid question but what do you mean by button pressing?

i believe what he meant is to use two controllers for your built in controller. a hacked up on for your "button pressing." this part would consist of the d-pad, the a, b, x, & y buttons, and the start and select buttons. a complete controller board would then be used to connect the wires up to. some prefer to do it this way, but i find it to be a waste of space. see the pic below as reference.

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 11:04 am

oh ok. i think because that chip is so small that i have to connect the wires to, that maybe this way would be easier. thanks for all the help guys.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:52 pm

Yes, loveablechevy - that is what I mean, I use that method; I could do it the harder way but prefer that method instead - personal preference.

nuky nuclear · Post by **nuky nuclear** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 9:49 pm

saddly i dont think i will have enough room to use a second controller. its going to be hard enough fitting everything in because f the wires for the cartridge slot.
would it be better to use the black dots by each button to connect the wires to instead of the traces? also i am considering making the hole for the wires bigger so maybe the game board will sit down better.