genesis 1 board with pic (big)

[phantom92opera]

hey guys, some disappointing news
i just took some measurements and it looks like my genesis board could be slimmed to 8 and 3/4 by 6 and 3/4 which misses the criteria for the ZN-45 case. i'm most likely to use a tackle box w/ paint or custom case (preferable)

MY last and final option would be to bondo together 2 ZN-45 cases to get a "taller" box to fit my project and once painted that joint would become invisible!

my only beef with a custom case is the time consuming process and planning and also how to design the sides. I know ben used aluminum strip to make the "walls" (depth dimension) on his project but i wasnt sure how i'd go about doing that with this project as i will have av jacks and power switches coming out of the case. if that metal makes contact with the metal (ground) of those jacks/switches/etc, will it interfere with anything?

thank you for all reading and watching my progress diligently!
Phantom

[mothatrucka]

About the metal jacks touching the aluminum strip there's a very easy way around that. Hardware stores sell rubber washers for all kinds of plumbing tasks that can easily be cut to the size you need. Most of them also sell some kind of rubber sheet for making custom stuff. Just use that wherever the metal might touch and it will insulate your connection so you don't have any problems.

[phantom92opera]

one quick question... ive been blowing thru soldering tips for my 30 watt rather quickly. After 1-2 uses (a few hours ea) they begin to sort of disintegrate in the point. ive been sanding etc but the tip forms a small divot or well where the point was.

any tips on how to prevent this (and save money so i dont have to keep buying as many tips?)

[atarihacker]

are the soldering tips you use rated for 30 watts?
because i had the same problem because I was using tips rated for 15 watts
also are you using acid core solder (plumbing solder) because that could dissintergrate the tip too

[phantom92opera]

they are 30 watt tips, should i try 40? i dont think itll fit.
im using radioshack .032 rosin core solder

[phantom92opera]

howdy yall,
its phantom here with some more research
ive looked at some homemade dev carts and with some rewiring and new pcb i think it'll be possible to remake this one
http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gen ... art_en.php
but with larger eeprom. i dont think both eeprom chips would be required if just using one large chip (1mb x 8 or 512x16) because all data bus pins could connect to the one.
another cart based on that one was found here
http://www.candu.co.uk/smd/megacart.shtml

give me some input please! also if you think of some cool names for my portable please post

so far ive got
MK-Gen
Genesis-p
Genable (hahaha NOT)
Genesis-MK

PS: MK are my initials haha

Thanks
phantom

[phantom92opera]

hey folks! im fairly certain my controller headache will be finished soon
ive checked my wiring button by button on a regular breadboard and found that my switches (taken from other electronics) run only on a diagonal, not on 2 sides therefore they were always closed thus causing buttons to be pressed. i also changed out the IC with a larger one i had in the 2nd controller and that is finished!

the case will be hand made and i made a cardboard prototype today.
im hoping maybe i can purchase a 7" screen because of the size of the case it will compliment the gameplay. does anyone knkow the aprx size of the mobo for this screen? it would appear that the mobo goes less than 1/2 inch above the screen and thusly should fit fine into the case i have designed
http://www.estarland.com/index.asp?page ... ct=23278&q


here are sum pic updates (ive relocated some capacitators! and made the board even smaller!!!)
there are masses of caps and resists on the upper left hand corner as in the picture and all of these are wired to the plug (now removed) for a/v out.
because that i have remade a video circuit and take my rgb signals straight from the IC (chip) are they necessary?? I am afraid to remove them then run the system for fear of frying it!

tell me what you think!
phantom

EDIT: ive been having trouble removing the cart slot (it'll be mounted to the front beneath the screen) it has brass (or just metal) standoffs holding it in aside from the leads. if you can think of anyway to remove this i will be forever in your debt! would the nintendo screw trick work (melted pen?)

PS! i just got a package i ordered from ebay! 4 genesis games (my favorite from my childhood inclusive *) Beavis and butthead*, toy story (yea i guess it came with it), Xmen, and sonic 2

EDIT2: here are pics of the 'to scale' model and with the mobo on top
the 2 squares (if u can see em) front and top would be the screens. the smaller being the 5" psone, the larger of course being the 7" ps2 screen.

[phantom92opera]

hey guys, good news! i just ordered 2 li poly 3.7v cells off ebay and they should be here in 7-10 days (i hope!). they are rated at 5Ah-6Ah i think (dont remember and dont feel like clicking over to the auction). and now the next step would be to setup a charger and protection circuit. i was looking at these:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... rodID=3379
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... rodID=3954

what do you think?
is there a maximum input charging rate for the cells or can i use the 1.5A charger?? please respond as i am anxious to order the products above, but need more info!

ontop of that ive stocked up on hardware for making the case and i have clear acrylic as well. As long as i sand it properly, and use primer, my spray paint, which i picked up as well should adhere to it as if it was engraving plastic... right?

thanks,
phantom

PS: throw some name suggestions out there please!

[lovablechevy]

so you're putting the cartridge slot on the front? interesting! the 7" screen will look better since it leaves not quite so much bare space. but, i know it can be a lot more expensive. are you sure you want the controls to be that low down? that will put a lot of weight on just your fingertips basically... maybe you should try moving them up a little...? just a suggestion!

just mess around and make sure it's comfy to hold for long gaming sessions!

i need to know all the info on the batteries you got to be able to help you figure out what pcb and charger to get.

ooo... names... i really stink at those... takes me forever to come up with one...

[phantom92opera]

hey! thanks i actually ran around work with the prototype (haha i sound like a mad scientist >:) ) and they all said the same thing, move the controls up.
that will be for prototype 2

have you thought of any ways to remove the cart slot?? im stumped and dont want to ruin the board.

i will be purchasing the gameglass 7" ps2 screen as it has the same pinout and voltage rating as the psone screen (im 99.99% sure)

[lovablechevy]

hey! thanks i actually ran around work with the prototype (haha i sound like a mad scientist >:) ) and they all said the same thing, move the controls up.
that will be for prototype 2

have you thought of any ways to remove the cart slot?? im stumped and dont want to ruin the board.

i will be purchasing the gameglass 7" ps2 screen as it has the same pinout and voltage rating as the psone screen (im 99.99% sure)

i've taken one off before. you basically just need to get a thin yet strong flat head screwdriver and pry the metal up. there is a "guide" of sorts somewhere in this forum... let me see if i can find it...

[phantom92opera]

you mean flathead??
and also, is it ok to remove all the caps surrounding the video output chip in the upper left hand corner. if i remove one it wont fry the screen right? my game plan is to hook it back up and just unplug, remove 1, replug.. test, remove, etc

doing this wont damage my mobo, just prevent it from running.. right?

also will drilling clear acrylic shatter it? i feel like it might crack etc and should probably upgrade to engraving plastic... what do you think?

[lovablechevy]

you mean flathead??
and also, is it ok to remove all the caps surrounding the video output chip in the upper left hand corner. if i remove one it wont fry the screen right? my game plan is to hook it back up and just unplug, remove 1, replug.. test, remove, etc

doing this wont damage my mobo, just prevent it from running.. right?

also will drilling clear acrylic shatter it? i feel like it might crack etc and should probably upgrade to engraving plastic... what do you think?

oops! my bad! yes, i meant flat head. silly tired mind of mine...

anyway, i found the "guide" i was talkin about. it's not the easiest thing, but it will work.

i honestly do not know much about electronics. so i cannot help you with the caps. it's better to just keep them all on. surely they are all there for a reason?

i've also never had any experience with clear acrylic. i always use stock cases. sorry!

[phantom92opera]

battery info says it should be able to be charged at any rate under 5A because that is "1C".

Code: Select all

3.7V 5000mah/5.0Ah Li-poly Li-Polymer Li-PO Cell-New!
Policies 	

BRAND NEW !! 
# Discharge Rate 10C Cont., 5C(6C) discharge over 96%(95%) capacity energy, can reach 15C~20C discharge rate in shortly time(<5 Minutes);
# Reach more than 300 cycles lifetime.
 
Size:     133mm x 43mm x 4mm 

Net Weight:     75.00 gs 

Caution
 # Li-Ion Batteries may explode if charged or discharged improperly.
  # The end user must have the technical knowledge necessary to charge and discharge Li-Ion batteries before making Li-Ion Battery Packs.
  # Must use a protection IC  ( PCB) to keep the battery and its pack from over charging and over discharging.  

Tips
      * You may choose one smart Li-Ion Battery charger to recharge this battery
      * You may choose one of PCBs to protect the polymer cell and its packs
      * The polymer battery is excellent for RC Toys, Electronic Bike, Flashlight Power Banks

[lovablechevy]

i'm pretty sure the pcb and charger you linked to will work fine. those are what i'm using for my batteries for the handyduo.