my Sweet64 progress thread!

Post by **Skyone** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 6:52 am

Very nice! Case is looking very smooth. Can't wait to see the wiring on this puppy.

Oh, I sometimes use tinypic.com if image shack gets too much traffic, just a tip.

Master of Portables · Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:56 am

schmellyfart wrote:
bacteria wrote: If you mount the joystick below the D-pad, isn't that going to be more awkward to use??
If he puts it directly below, then yes it would be akward to use. But If he put it under and a little to the right (i.e.play station) it wouldnt be akward.

Yeah, that's what I'm doing. I put the piece of plastic so that my hand feels fine with the position of the control, then I trace the plastic. I don't have the joystick on yet because I'm still in the process of taking apart another Gamecube controller, without destroying the case...(yay for ace hardware, as they have triwing bits

)

Edit:
yay! more case pics!:
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0935.jpg" width="300">
Step 1 on the bondo process...
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0937.jpg" width="300">
2 step bondo process on a crack made when it was removed from mould...

more to come soon.

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:09 pm

my cases paint design(plan...)

a little thing I made in about 2 minuets, with gimp

I'm still debating on whether to paint the buttons or not...(and if so, whether to paint them white or black...)

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:34 pm

Joystick looks a bit too low, you might end up holding the system at a bit of a diagonal...

Yes, know what you mean, the buttons are a bit "ugly" in colour really, especially if you have a black case. I was also considering button colours; might be nicer to use light grey for the current yellow buttons, and the start button, and a mid grey for the A, B, Z and shoulder buttons. I presume you are going to incorporate the Z and left shoulder and right shoulder buttons to make it complete? (I am). If however you use a pastel yellow or light grey or white colour for the case, the button colours can stay as they are.

Have you done anything else on this project apart from a bit on the case?

PS - is that your sister's room? (just looking at the curtains in the "step 2" pic above, etc)...

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:05 pm

Ok, first of all, I don't have a sister, as that room would be my KITCHEN!(I don't control color of curtains in there

)

second, the image is not to scale or interpret in any way whatsoever, beside the colors...(an yes, the shoulder buttons are there, and the thing on the back side of the case is the Z button...)

and third, yes, I have, I got the controller board chopped, the expansion pack extracted from the case, many jacks and whatnot desoldered off the board, and more(that I can't think of ATM...)I will relocate the cart slot when the case is finished, because I would dread having the wires too short or something like that. many of the reasons of the case not going quicker are:
1.I'm having trouble getting a Game Cube controller apart without demolishing the case.

2. I've had company for the past week, and that of course slows it down because my family likes to invite every close living relative when some distant relative is here...

3.I went camping 2 weeks ago!

4.bondo doesn't Majikaly (TM by someone on this forum

) harden in 2 seconds.

thats about all I can think of now, and I'm tired of typing

vskid · Post by **vskid** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:37 pm

Master of Portables wrote:I'm having trouble getting a Game Cube controller apart without demolishing the case.

Tri-wings, right? I use a small flat head screwdriver that takes up one of the prongs, and then I push it into the screw firmly as I turn to keep it in its prong.

Master of Portables · Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:29 pm

well, I got out 4 screws a while ago using Triwing bits, (I found them at Ace Hardware!) but the 2 screws that are the deep well in the control handle, are hard to get to because the wells are smaller than the bit's width...

Post by **Triton** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:30 pm

try those very small metal flat screwdrivers like you can get at menards or radioshack etc. its how i did it

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 9:34 am

ok cool, I used a small flat head screwdriver that had a little corner piece broken off by various hacking uses, but the thing worked PERFECTLY for removing hard to reach Triwing screws(I took the screws out in 3 minuets, flat). I have now conquered all Nintendo screws! pics coming as soon as I get them uploaded.

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 3:29 pm

YAY more pics! I just hot glued the screen portion in, and will soon cut out a hole for the analog stick piece(which you can see, was dremeled off the freshly opened Game Cube controller...) after I put in the analog plastic piece, all I need to do is to cut some more holes for the shoulder buttons, the AV out, the charging jack, and the power switch, then bondo it all up, then finally paint it and the first half of the case should be done!

Pics, OMG:
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0945.jpg" width="300">
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0947.jpg" width="300">

Master of Portables · Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:27 pm

ok, I'm having a little trouble with the batteries. I know what battery I want to get, but its a li poly(<a href="http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... 3153">this one</a>), and thus, I want a protection circuit, but on battery space theres like at least a dozen of them, and I cant find the right one. also is the charger. I don't want to spend $70 on a smart charger, but I don't know how many volts to put into the battery to charge it, so I can't buy a separate charger... if someone could answer these questions that would be helpful.
also I am putting a beta version of my guide(or in other words, all that I have written so far...) on my site
<a href="http://www.freewebs.com/masterofportables/N64guide.html" target="blank"><img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... delogo.png" border="0">
</a>

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 3:06 pm

Case is looking nice so far. Hope the lid closes on this one! (I looked at your website on the SNES portable). That is the danger when making the case first I suppose. Assuming everything fits nicely, the finished product should look nice!

Before I got a triwing screwdriver, I found a standard 2mm screwdriver opened the tri-screws ok. Mind you I got fed up with the hex-screws on the N64, I could have dremeled around the screw holes in the plastic and got to them that way, but I decided, for a few quid, to get a proper screwdriver to save the frustration factor. When I finish with the screwdriver, I will get most of my money back on it via e-bay!

I agree with leaving the relocating of the cart slot until later, I just came to the same conclusion myself on my project, especially as I now have much finer wires to use. Rather than making it all "ok", I decided to start this part again and do it neatly and properly.

Anyway, nice work so far, please keep us all posted, with more pics please!!

sweet!

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:16 pm

after such a long time of sanding, I have finished sanding the first step of the screen, and have applied the spot putty for the second step...
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0948.jpg" width="300">

<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x252 ... G_0950.jpg" width="300">

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 1:23 am

What is the make/type of bondo you use? What do you find best to sand with? (liquid sand, sandpaper on a block, file, etc). I doubt I will need to use any on my project, but am interested to know anyway.

The D-pad is at a bit of a skew, is that intentional (I presume it is).

Where is the joystick - have you decided to install the mounting for it later after sanding the rest of the unit?

Personally, I am not so keen on the four holes under the PSone screen for the volume and brightness; just personal choice. I intend to mount the buttons on top of the console to keep them out of view, (space permitting); personal choice though. I believe kurt did this on his project, looked nice and professional.

What type of fan are you going to use to remove the hot air from the system? (we don't want your case to melt/soften after all). You might find the "mini system exhaust blower" I posted on my thread useful; quiet, no unsightly fan sticking out, minimal footprint. Just a thought if you find it useful.

I am interested in the type of battery you end up getting, and the recharger - please post a link to it when you decide. marshallh used a DVD battery on his, read his information on his truly excellent L64 project; not sure what he used for the recharger though and the easiest way to do it (short of buying the DVD player and stripping out the battery pack and charger of course!). Keeping price down is important of course.

Master of Portables · Post by **Master of Portables** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:53 am

uh, lets see if my brain can function logically to answer these questions...

1. I use the 2 Step bondo method. First I use bondo called Marine Epoxy Stick, which is really great for filling in large gaps, holes, etc. Then, I use bondo called Glazing and Spot Putty. It is sort of gooey, and it is not a 2 part mix, it hardens when exposed to air! I usually sand the Marine bondo with 60 grit sandpaper. Then I sand the Spot Putty with 320-600 grit. The sand paper is mounted on this handle so I can sand with ease. I don't usually wet sand stuff, only on the final sand.

2. Yes the D-pad is a bit skew, but I try to position my buttons so that they are in a comfortable position to use.

3.The reason the joy stick was not added with the screen is because when I dremeled out the massive hole, the case was not very stable at all.

4. The Volume and Brightness buttons can stay there, and Kurt_ only did that because I think the audio amp died or something like that, so the buttons were useless.

5. The fan is OPTIONAL and my case won't melt until it hits 450 degrees! so the case ain't going to melt on me

6.I was going to buy the Polaroid BT41, but the stock price is $115. If I can find a cheaper one on Ebay, then I might get it. EDIT: I just got one on Ebay for $20 shipped