Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.
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blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Sun Jul 09, 2006 5:59 pm
Is +3.36vdc pushing it, or is it fine? My board is an NUS-004 (1997).
Thanks,
-iam7805
(That guy with a funny number at the end of his name)
P.S. The reason i'm asking is because I am using the PTH08000W adjustable DC/DC, and can't get any 1.87k resistors. Only 1.8k.
Last edited by
blackbox_dev on Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
timmeh87
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by timmeh87 » Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:07 pm
why dont you just get something that goes a little under? 3.2v is ok. but 3.36 is probably fine too.
"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"
ShockSlayer
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by ShockSlayer » Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:09 pm
I got it running on 3.4v so I think it should be fine. It worked with my 1996 and my 1998. Couse now, every n64 is different.
blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:11 pm
3.4? Ok, sounds good. Thanks.
Btw, I'll keep you posted if it works or not.
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
Skyone
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by Skyone » Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:29 pm
Try a 2K resistor. ~3.228
blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:21 am
Will do! But I 've got another question:
Does the resistor have to be 1% and 0.05 watts? I found out that my local electronics place only has as low as 2% and 1/8 watts. *sigh*
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
timmeh87
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by timmeh87 » Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:34 am
it only has to be 1% if you need your voltage to be really accurate. you could technically just buy a couple 20% ones, measure them all and use the one thats the closest.
and 1/8 watt is more than .05 watt, so you are fine.
"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"
blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:55 am
Yay! No ordering from Digikey for me!
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
ShockSlayer
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by ShockSlayer » Mon Jul 10, 2006 2:46 pm
Tell me if it works.
blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Mon Jul 10, 2006 4:02 pm
Well. My DC/DC came today, hoping to get my resistors and caps on Wedensday (as well as a new 40w Weller).
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:30 pm
Ok, I drew up a stripboard layout. As smart as I am (*cough*), I tend to make careless/stupid mistakes. So, can one of you guys make sure this is correct?
The outline in blue is the input capacitor. The outline in green is the output capacitor. The outline in pink is the resistor. The outline in red is the DC/DC.
The blue pin is ground. The red pin is voltage in. The yellow pin is voltage out.
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
timmeh87
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by timmeh87 » Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:23 pm
the top pin of your input cap should move one row down, i think. the jumper above it seems to serve no purpose?
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blackbox_dev
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by blackbox_dev » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:46 am
Ok, here's an update so that the two caps are the same size. I'm a perfectionist as you can see.
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
timmeh87
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by timmeh87 » Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:53 am
does the converter module fit into stipboard? i was under the impression it had weird nonstandard pin spacing
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marshallh
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by marshallh » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:07 am
Dude, just use point to point wiring. It's so simple you shouldn't have a problem.