I want to be able to switch between wall and battery power, but still be able to charge the batteries. I also don't want to use more than one switch or more than one jack, so I came up with this:
When the switch is on (|) the N64 is powered by the batteries. When the batteries are low, the AC adapter is plugged into the jack, so it's powered by that. The diode is there to prevent the AC adapter from sending electricity to the batteries. When the system is off (O), the charger is inserted and the batteries can charge.
Are there any problems with this setup that I've overlooked? Would it supply too much voltage if the batteries aren't completely drained and the AC adapter is plugged in at the same time? Thanks in advance.
Also, does anyone have the circuit for setting up a headhpone jack using the PSOne screen?
... I dont really want to draw out my diagram but I think you are over doing the wiring. you dont need a switch between the two because if you just sodered the battery pack inputs directually to the bottem of the motherboard where most people do, you dont need a switch between the 2. just make shur you dont provide the battery power to the N64 while the N64 is plugged into the wall outlet. You could fry the N64.
"just make shur you dont provide the battery power to the N64 while the N64 is plugged into the wall outlet."
hm i wonder how you would do that... a switch maybe?
i think this is a fine design. i dont forsee any problems with it, unless your charger has a problem powering a nintendo instead of charging a battery.
csurban wrote:just make shur you dont provide the battery power to the N64 while the N64 is plugged into the wall outlet. You could fry the N64.
Even if the wall adapter was in while the batteries were still powered, how would it fry the N64? Since the two energy sources aren't wired in series, the voltage would remain the same, correct? I could be wrong, but I don't think it would send more voltage to the N64 than necessary (assuming the wall adapter is around 7-9 volts).
And does anyone have a diagram for the headphone jack on the PSOne screen?
In both DC and AC the 'negative' is LIVE, so that is the one you switch on and off, notice that the when swithced to the center, the system recieves no power, a virtual "off" switch. Your wiring is redundant, in the fact that
1) please stick to standard colour convention, i dunno about other people but it sort of copulate with my head when people do it backwards (Red = positive, Black = negative)
2) youre probably better off switching the positive wire, no matter what that one guy said. thats how its originally done inside the system. and if you switch the negative one you wont be able to seprarately power the system or screen (since their grounds are tied together because of video and sound).
meleniumshane90 wrote:
In both DC and AC the 'negative' is LIVE, so that is the one you switch on and off, notice that the when swithced to the center, the system recieves no power, a virtual "off" switch. Your wiring is redundant, in the fact that
Sure, there's current flowing in the ground wires, but i wouldn't call it live. The 'negative' wire is the reference point that your voltage is measured with respect to. There is no voltage at your reference in most electronic circuits (unless you count the milli-ohm resistance times the current). It's safer to use high-side switching to remove the voltage potential throughout your circuit. Especially if it's a wall based power supply that's not isolated, anything could end up being your 'negative', including your fingers.
The only time you really need to be worried about your groung wire is in three-phase power AC circuits. If you're rectifying it incorrectly you'll get huge current spikes in the ground wire, and it'll catch on fire. I don't think that's a problem here though.
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hm i wonder how you would do that... a switch maybe? 
