Only need power to it now!

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:13 am

I have EVERYTHING wired except the power to the screen. Since I'm doing this differently than the book, I'm a little confused at this point. In the book, Ben wired the LM317T adjustable regulator to the controller as well as the screen. All I want it for is to get power to the screen. Do I still use the exact same resistors as in the book? Do I also need to use capicitors? Basically I just want power from the battery to go into the regulator and come out as the right voltage for the screen. What resistors and stuff do I use? I have no idea how to calculate this stuff mathematically... and I promise this is my last question I will ask you guys on this project you have been a HUGE help!

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:56 pm

Coem on guys pleeease! This is all I have left to do and then I can laser cut the case tomorrow and be finished with this! I really need to know how to do this!

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:01 pm

Just wire it up like in the book because I can't understand what your saying...(I might just be dumb though

)

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:06 pm

What I'm saying is in the book they also power the controller off of the same regulator used for the screen... I'm not using the books controller, I'm using the original controller.... so what should I do? Just wire the half of the controller like in the book and hide it in the case?

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:50 pm

Ok so you have the controller wired up right? If so then just use the regulator to power the screen and the orginal spots on the nes to power the controller...

scherubino · Post by **scherubino** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:00 pm

The LM317T regulator does not power the controller. That whole set up that Ben has is for the screen only. You need 7.5v to power the screen and that is why he has those resistors/capacitors set up in that way. Just copy that circuit exactly and attach it to the screen as Ben says.
The NES itself is regulated with the 7805 that he has attached to the motherboard - any power to the controller comes from that. Though it may look like it is wired to the LM317T, that is actually the UNREGULATED power which is coming straight from the battery/AC Adapter.

Trust me I've built 4 of these so far.

Hope it helps.

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:34 pm

scherubino wrote:The LM317T regulator does not power the controller. That whole set up that Ben has is for the screen only. You need 7.5v to power the screen and that is why he has those resistors/capacitors set up in that way. Just copy that circuit exactly and attach it to the screen as Ben says.
The NES itself is regulated with the 7805 that he has attached to the motherboard - any power to the controller comes from that. Though it may look like it is wired to the LM317T, that is actually the UNREGULATED power which is coming straight from the battery/AC Adapter.

Trust me I've built 4 of these so far.

Hope it helps.

Thanks, looking at the picture it looks as though a wire goes from the capacitors to the tact switches which are used for the controller? I suppose I'll just wire exactly like that without the tact switches (I dont' have any tact switches)

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:53 pm

Heres what I'm talking about. The tact switches are wired to the resistors. Should I basically just chop out what it in red?

minkster · Post by **minkster** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:44 pm

Yes, that should work with what you've chopped off if you just want 7.5v to the screen.

vb_master · Post by **vb_master** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:48 pm

Ghost2520 wrote:Heres what I'm talking about. The tact switches are wired to the resistors. Should I basically just chop out what it in red?

Congradulations, you just violated copyright laws. I don't think you asked the author and the publisher to post that here (you need written permission).

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:51 pm

Meh I doubt ben will care too much and yeah that'll work.

scherubino · Post by **scherubino** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:57 pm

Yes, that wire is simply a ground wire. There is no actual power going to those resistors from the circuit. You can cut those out with no problem.

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:07 pm

ok thanks for the help, I'll finish it up tomorrow. The parts list didn't say I needed those 2 capacitors so I'll have to buy them after school tomorrow.

I've still gotta cut the case in the morning though.... so I suppose I'm going to have to make estimates on the dimensions.

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:40 pm

Ok I just bought the capicitors, they had like millions of them so I got some like blue metal ones.... they are the right ones, .1uf and 1uf but will the actual type like what they are made out of matter?

Ghost2520 · Post by **Ghost2520** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:22 pm

and I just looked at the book and I see the 1uf capacitor has a + and - meaning its an electrolytic capacitor.... am I gonna have to run all the way back to radio shack and get this type? Or will the kind of have work just fine as long as it is 1uf?