My own wiring diagram. Will this work? "Updated diagram

Dr.Weasel · Post by **Dr.Weasel** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:56 am

Well i'm about to start the wiring for the power circuit and i drew this up to get my thoughts out of my head and on paper. Now i'm just wondering if this will work? The diagram is set up so that the red is the 12 volt line and blue is the 3.3V line. The DPDT switch is to switch between running on batteries and running on the original power supply on the n64. One of my questions is "will the n64 power supply give enough amperage on the 12 V line to power the ps1 screen and the n64 12V line?" Make any sugestions you want.

-Hayden

Post by **marshallh** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:13 am

I don't think the N64 power brick can put out any more than 700mA, so running everything off that wouldn't work.

Your diagram is pretty interesting, why did you put an LM317 in there? You don't need to step down the voltage for the PSone screen. (The setup runs on 7.2v.)

bioniclebert · Post by **bioniclebert** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:31 am

Why multiple switches? Usually you'd want all 3 on at once.

timmeh87 · Post by **timmeh87** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 9:32 am

yeah i also dont think you should switch the 12v line. isnt it the 3.3v line that is normally switched? or is it both. or something.

..and youll need capacitors in there. on the regulator and the dc-dc. and theyre right, you dont need the regulator anyways.

also, as long as its plugged into the wall, your fan wont turn off

Dr.Weasel · Post by **Dr.Weasel** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:03 am

ok maybe i didnt explain my diagram well enough. The DPDT switch isnt to power on the console at all. It is to switch between running the console from the wall or on batteries. i was hoping that i would be able to run the 12 line on the n64 and the ps1 screen but it looks like the 12 volt line on the n64 power supply only gives off 800mA. "would that be enough to run both?"... also when i would be running the unit off the wall socket, i would have to turn the power switch on the ps1 off so that only the lm317 would be feeding the screen because the power from the psu would be feeding it 12V and thats to much for a ps1 screen, "right"? The reason for two power switches is because i plan to have AV out "RCA" jacks so i can use my portable as a normal 64 on a tv or just turn on the ps1 screen and plug something else into the RCA jacks like a dvd player or xbox on roadtrips. Yeah i didnt add the resistors to the lm317 on the diagram but there will be. Do i need Cap.s on the TI DC-DC? I hope this clears up some questions. i also planed on having the fan be on at all times so i didnt run the risk of forgetting to turn it on.
-Hayden

Also would it just be easier to us a "wall wart" type power supply for to power the whole thing off the wall and have it give off something like 7.5 - 9 volts and have it run throught the TI DC-DC instead of trying to use the original power supply on the n64?

I also added the jack in this diagram so you know what i'm talking about.

JAY · Post by **JAY** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 11:21 am

If you still have the power supply from the PSone screen, you can use that, since it'll give 7.5V, and is rated for up to 3A as well. Then your input voltage would never be above 9V, and you can ditch the LM317 for the screen.

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:50 pm

there's a few errors with you diagram.

1. unless you're gonna LED mod your screen (i'm asuming you are), the power brick won't be able to power it.

2. the N64 independant power switch needs to switch it before it splits up into 3.3v and 7.2v so both of those are cut.

3. you didn't include the charger

other than that it should work

Dr.Weasel · Post by **Dr.Weasel** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:43 pm

I changed it a bit and now i'm wondering if what jay said will work?... "i have it in the diagram for now. daguuy- i'm going to have a little door that opens on the case i can leave the original tamiya connectors on the Nihm batteries and when ever i need to charge i will just open the little door and plug my RC quick charger into either battery.
-Hayden

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 5:19 pm

that's better. one thing you might want to add is a primary power switch for the battery so you don't have to switch 2 to turn it on

JAY · Post by **JAY** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 7:27 pm

Well, in a way he does have a primary power switch, since if he doesn't have the unit plugged into the wall, the main DPDT switch would turn everything off if it's in the "wallwart" position, and so he could leave the other switches on and use the DPDT for turning it on.

But, he'll still need some way to charge the batteries, meaning that he'll need a switch to direct whether the batteries are connected to the unit or the charging jack (unless he's going to take out the batteries to charge them). So, that would also serve as a main power switch, since having it in the "charge" position would turn everything off, too. So, yeah, daguuy, I guess your right.

One problem with the picture: when the switch is in the "wallwart" position, your dc/dc convertor's output is cut off, and so your system won't be getting the 3.3V.

Edit: here, I simplified it a bit. The fan'll be on only when the system is on, since the screen doesn't need it. Connected wires are signified with nodes (except I forget to put nodes on the parallel battery connections).

Dr.Weasel · Post by **Dr.Weasel** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:44 pm

Alright, thanks. This looks like its going to work. Yeah my charger is set up to charge 4-7 cells so i have to do each battery at a time so i'll not be taking them out but they will have the regular connectors on them. It is so i can use them later for rc stuff too. If i have them the parallel it will be just like one battery with 6000mA, so if one of the batterys says that i can charge it at double the amp rate of the capacity of the battery then can i charge it at 4.5amps? "because that is the highest my charger goes". Does that sound right to you guys?

-Hayden