Atari 7800pâ„¢
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S q u e e !
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Atari 7800pâ„¢
I am now officially going to attempt making the first ever Atari 7800 portable. I have been looking for more info on the system, but I was wondering if this would really be the first or not. Feedback?
Last edited by S q u e e ! on Sun Jan 08, 2006 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"I like my coffee like I like my women. In a plastic cup."
~Eddie Izzard
~Eddie Izzard
The 7800 motherboard is HUGE!!! Good luck on that because one member thought about it but gave up when non of use could see anything that could be dropped.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
That was my first thought... and then I saw this!timmeh87 wrote:you COULD map out the traces between ALL the parts, put it back together in a PCB design program, and make yourself a smaller custom mobo. i mean... its POSSIBLE
http://www.atari7800.org/schematic.htm
That thing has a lot of stuff on the motherboard.
Current Project=???, N64 PE, SNES PE
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Reaperman@home
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I'm trying real hard to think of a game that was more fun on atari 7800 than any other far easier atari system... Ballblazer? It was a *darn* good ballblazer, I guess...
I suppose the real up swing is that you get to redesign those controllers.
edit: and well, I forgot about that 'masterblazer' game on the 16-bit computers. That was way better then the 7800 ballblazer...
I suppose the real up swing is that you get to redesign those controllers.
edit: and well, I forgot about that 'masterblazer' game on the 16-bit computers. That was way better then the 7800 ballblazer...
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S q u e e !
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Well, an update is in store. I found two things.
1) Atari 7800 Video mods
and
2) The Atari this will be performed on
Sorry to drag up this *really* old thread, but I decided it needed to be updated
1) Atari 7800 Video mods
and
2) The Atari this will be performed on
Sorry to drag up this *really* old thread, but I decided it needed to be updated
"I like my coffee like I like my women. In a plastic cup."
~Eddie Izzard
~Eddie Izzard
I would also be possible to create a multi layer custom motherboard. I mean, it's possible to chop up the design into smaller parts and create those seperately, then interconnect the smaller parts with wires and put that into a portable casing. It still would be quite big because the space you save on the surface, you will gain in height, because fitting it all directely together will even be more complicated if not impossible.
Anyway, it would be a heck of a job to get it small enough.
Anyway, it would be a heck of a job to get it small enough.
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S q u e e !
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- Location: Lost. Are you my mommy?
Ok, I now have a system to operate on, 4 contollers to test, and 43 games to play when I am completed. I have some basic pinouts, but I now have a question for all of the tech geeks out there:
So, each "button" (really three traces leading to a central point) is "pulled down" when you press it. There are quite a few pins on the board itself, and I have a question regarding them.
When you look at the board with thetraces facing you, there are colored wires coming from the bottom, going to the triggers, and then heading for the connector at the end. There are 7 wires on the main PCB: Green, Red, Blue, Black, White, Yellow, and Brown. Each wire has a trace that connects it to a specific part (duh!), but there is a mystery cap that has its own trace from the right direction button that leads to Black (which I am assuming is Ground). This cap is black in color, appears to be made of plastic, and has no visible markings indicating how many uFs it carries (if it even is a cap). Do you suppose this is just a jumper of sorts, or could this be something dreadfully important?
**EDIT**
Maybe I should add that there are two 720Mohm resistors on the board; one between Ground and red, and one between ground and yellow, can these be removed at any time when I redesign the controller (I will be using a PS2 joystick like the CNC built Atari from Ben's book) and replaced with 4.7kohm resistors like in the book?
So, each "button" (really three traces leading to a central point) is "pulled down" when you press it. There are quite a few pins on the board itself, and I have a question regarding them.
When you look at the board with thetraces facing you, there are colored wires coming from the bottom, going to the triggers, and then heading for the connector at the end. There are 7 wires on the main PCB: Green, Red, Blue, Black, White, Yellow, and Brown. Each wire has a trace that connects it to a specific part (duh!), but there is a mystery cap that has its own trace from the right direction button that leads to Black (which I am assuming is Ground). This cap is black in color, appears to be made of plastic, and has no visible markings indicating how many uFs it carries (if it even is a cap). Do you suppose this is just a jumper of sorts, or could this be something dreadfully important?
**EDIT**
Maybe I should add that there are two 720Mohm resistors on the board; one between Ground and red, and one between ground and yellow, can these be removed at any time when I redesign the controller (I will be using a PS2 joystick like the CNC built Atari from Ben's book) and replaced with 4.7kohm resistors like in the book?
"I like my coffee like I like my women. In a plastic cup."
~Eddie Izzard
~Eddie Izzard
If I remember right the "cap" as you call it is a diode, I can't really remember though. I think it needs to be there. Test it for continuity, and resistance, it is probably just a jumper.S q u e e ! wrote:This cap is black in color, appears to be made of plastic, and has no visible markings indicating how many uFs it carries (if it even is a cap). Do you suppose this is just a jumper of sorts, or could this be something dreadfully important?
Maybe I should add that there are two 720Mohm resistors on the board; one between Ground and red, and one between ground and yellow, can these be removed at any time when I redesign the controller (I will be using a PS2 joystick like the CNC built Atari from Ben's book) and replaced with 4.7kohm resistors like in the book?
I do know that the two resistors need to be there. They are for backwards compatiblity to one button games. I think they can be anywhere from 400ohms to 800ohms, but they must be the same. I used 620s when I made my two button WICO and NES controllers.
This may help:
Code: Select all
7800 control (buttons)
/----------YLW(-) pin 9
Button L /
/---------()---| YLW splits
/ \----/\/\/-----\
pin 6 ORG(+) -------| ORG splits 520 ohm |---BLK(-) pin 8
\ /----/\/\/-----/
\---------()---| 520 ohm
Button R \ RED splits
\----------RED(-) pin 5
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S q u e e !
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- Location: Lost. Are you my mommy?
