i am having some trouble with my mini snes's video. there are white lines (they are not very bad but noticeable) that are scrolling down my screen
i have it hooked up to its original power supply and an IDE cable wire goes to an RCA jack, do you think it could be that the wire sending the video is to thin.
i think that it may have something to do with this fuse also
it came off and i soldered it back on, but i dont know how well a job i did, sometimes the snes wont even start up either all i will get are those lines. do you think that maybe if i jumped this fuse it would help, also i relocated the cart slot do you think that the wires are to long?
those arent "fuses", they are capacitors. dont short it. it couldnt possibly help, and it might break something.
relocating the cart slot wouldnt affect the video, i dont think. maybe your video wire needs more sheilding. you said you were using an IDE cable? theres a reason why all video cables are coaxial....
ok i just hooked my snes up to a hipgear and im getting some waves that kinda go down the screen, i know its not the screen, that are much more noticeable it is not the screen because i just tested it with my GC and it worked fine, are there any ideas as to what i should do?
do you think RGB or S-vid would help or does anyone think putting some kind of cap on the end of the video line would help filter it?
Your video cable should be a shielded cable similar to the AV wire that connects your SNES to the TV.
If it's not shielded, then lots of noise will get into the screen's input.
A shielded wire is a normal insulated wire with a copper mesh ground surrounding the length of the wire. On top of all this is another layer of insulation.
To find some, just cut some from a Playstation or SNES AV cable that you have laying around.
BTW, if you choose to use RGB or S-video, then all these quality problems are ELIMINATED.
With a regular SNES and PSone screen, RGB is the best and most stunning video to use!! Just trust me!!
hmm i really would like to do RGB but i dont think that a hipgear can take it, if it is my power supply then i may be alright because i am only temporarilyt using the original AC adapter.
o and i am just using a normal 7805 right now i think i will try some of that shielded wire first hope it works
ideally youd get some tantalium caps. because they rock. but you probably wont find them, or they will be too expensive.
if you use a small electrolytic (<100 uF) you would probably be getting somewhere (avoid unnesecarily huge electrolytics, internal inductance blah blah blah it wont work). in case you didnt know (sorry if im insulting your intelligence) electrolytics are the ones that are cylinder shaped, usually with both leads coming out of the bottom.
what you do is hook the negative end to the ground (neagtive) wire, and the other end to the positive wire of the power supply lines as CLOSE to whatever youre trying to fix as you can. (dont hook it backwards!!!). dont worry this will not short your power lines...
what it does is creates a little resivoir of electrons near your screen/system/whatever. it dampens the effect of noise on your power lines by absorbing it, and allows your device to draw spikes of current if it needs it. it is called decoupling.
thanks a lot i really did need a pretty detailed explanation so basically any cap will work that bis around 100uf
if i buy some tantulum caps from digikey eventually would i need some sort of different rating or could i use the same
capcitance is capacitance. if you need 100 uF, then you should get a 100uF capacitor, no matter what type it is. Tanatalium caps are just better because.... actaully i dont know why. well. they dont have internal inductance like an electrolytic... maybe thats it. anyhow, most people will agree that tantalium is the best kinda cap you can buy. but in your case, if an electrolytic works, dont spend any money to get something else (if you have old circuit boards lying around, chances are you can steal a 100 uF electrolytic from one of them)
i tried the shielding and it didnt do to much then i tried putting a cap on the power line and nothing happened i took it off and i still get no picture i tried jumping the fuse and all
i am testing it with my multimeter also it appears that sometimes there is no power at all not even from the ac plug and at other times it seems as though there is too much voltage getting by the 7805 any advice ?
hip hip hooray triple post
ok i fixed the problem al i had to do was remove the little black thing next to the big white fuse and then i decide to attach my power supply right to the the 7805 and grounding strips i feel so happy because for some reason that helped the looping also
and at other times it seems as though there is too much voltage getting by the 7805 
