benheck.com Forums

Yeah it looks like it can take rgb, though there's no combined sync input, so you'd need to use a sync separator like an LM1881 to get separate vsync and hsync, unless the display can handle csync on both pins.

If you don't have solder, you need to get some bro. Rosin core would be best, as it has the flux already in it.

That's why your solder won't stick, you're trying to reuse old solder that has no flux.

The search tool is your friend.

http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?t=19038

http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?t=26408

Without something like that, there's no way to hook up a gba to output to a tv, let alone a psone screen.

There's no such thing as too much amperage, current is a total available amount of electricity; a circuit will only take what it needs.

There is such a thing as too much voltage, which is like electrical pressure.

Yes, you could power an n64 with a pc power supply, but be aware that for a pc psu ...

If the screen can take composite, and also has rgb inputs then it should work.

IIRC most NES games use 8KB srams for the save ram, so replacing it shouldn't be an issue, though I doubt your save ram has been damaged unless you're really bad at soldering.

You'd probably do more damage than good in the process of trying to replace the sram.

Except for its narrower 32-bit system bus, the VR4300 retained the computational abilities of the more powerful 64-bit MIPS R4300i,[20] though software rarely took advantage of 64-bit data precision operations. N64 game-titles generally used faster (and more compact) 32-bit data-operations,[24] as ...

http://www.geeks.com/woot/
has 7" ntsc/atsc (both digital and analog tuner) lcd tvs for $40 each, with composite inputs clearly visible on the side.
Also comes with rechargable batteries
Deal expires on wednesday the 16th.

Looks like a steal to me, might be in for 2 of em.\

EDIT:
Don't forget to ...

Sorry for going so long without any updates.....

The handheld is currently in working condition, though it still lacks a few things I'd like to add, notably video out, extra controller ports, LOB64 compatibility, dpad, and an L button/Z button selector switch.

I'm beginning to hate the wood case I ...

I bought a whopping 9Ah battery for mine, and I'm using this charger with no hassles so far, though there's no real way I can see to charge and play at the same time, since the draw of a portable is more juice than the charger puts out.
http://www.batteryspace.com/smartcharger12afor74vli ...

You can't get vga output from an N64, sorry.

*References earlier post*
http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=38553&p=425395&sid=84a5d2b615da6be6a6cc41ad8f7f9c2a#p425395

If you want video out from your n64p, just take the video line going to your screen, connect it to a 2-position switch ...

hopefully vent holes will be enough, I'd still recommend a fan though. just make sure you don't have any loose wire that'll fall into it and you shouldn't have any problems. i think you can get the 5v from where you take the video signals. Electronics run much better when they're cool, and when a ...

I would not recommend a fan, it's not necessary if you have decent heatsinks, and a fan is what killed my first n64, if a loose wire drops into the blades while it's on, it'll fry whatever it's connected to, (in my case, the 5v rail that powers the a/v section) >.<

The 'normal' heatsink is the entire aluminum fixture, not just the little metal blocks that were attached to the chips.
Use some old gpu heatsinks or northbridge heatsinks.

Don't think I could ever get a chopped in half N64 to work again, the latency and signal timing issues would destroy me, not to mention the zillions of wires.

Just got off the phone with Jameco, turns out the were holding my order until the backordered part arrived. I've asked them to send the DAC ...