First timer (ok ok, a noob)

Solidus · Post by **Solidus** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 12:56 pm

Hi, ive been reading these forums for a while now, decided to register after having just read the book, and bought an n64.
Now, I decided to make a N64p as it would be a challenge to keep my mind occupied when not at work (to drown out the memories of the day, if you will) seing as though I have next to NO electronics knowledge (thats what I call a challenge! : P). The last time I used a soldering iron was in secondary school many years ago, so i guess ill be praticing for quite a while first.
Id just like to ask a quick question, one that im sure will be one of many and many as I venture forth in my N64p building untill I lose all hope at the horrible mess of wires I create and give up.

Seing as though the n64 needs 12v and 3.3v (yeah I know it doesnt NEED 12v) doesnt that mean that the "power converter" to lower the voltage to 3.3v is within the power adapter? If so, could I use that to get the 3.3v needed? (no matter how many threads I read on how to get to 3.3v, I allways come away somewhat confused by the specs of it all)

Anyway, thanks for your time, and im sorry if ive just said something utterly stupid.

madc0w · Post by **madc0w** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 1:06 pm

the problem is you have to step down from 120 volts to 3.3, so its easier to attach a 3 volt regulator. Also, be ready to have multiple n64's on hand, they fry easily.

Post by **marshallh** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 1:12 pm

Welcome! It's good to see you've at least been reading up. That's good!
As for getting 3.3v, there is no easy way to do it. You could possible use 3 Ni-MH cells to get about 3.6v (that will still work.) Once the voltage gets below 3v, the n64 quits workin. Or, you can get a walkman car adapter like I did, and regulate >10v down to about 3.1v.
The last option is also the least efficient and produces tons of heat. You could use a linear regulator (like an LM317 or LM117), and find the right combination of resistors and capacitors to drop what voltage you're using down to 3.3v.

Remember, always tin every single wire you cut! Otherwise you'll end up with a "cold solder", which is a bad connection and will probably come loose after a while.
This is how I tin my wires(side view)

superdeformed · Post by **superdeformed** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 2:44 pm

Why does everyone always disregard switching regulators for powering the 3.3v line? They're efficient, easy to make (the datasheets for most of them tell you exactly what parts to use and how to wire everything) and generally pretty cheap too. Here are the parts (from Digikey) that I used to make mine:
LM2576T-3.3NS-ND - LM2576 switching regulator, $3.20 (read the datasheet for how to hook everything up)
P10269-ND - 100uF 25V electrolytic capacitor, $0.23
P11223-ND - 1000uF 25V electrolytic capacitor, $1.20
1N5822RLOSCT-ND - shotkey diode rated for 40V at 3A, $3.64 (minimum quantity is 10)
M5250-ND - 100uH ferrite choke inductor rated at 2A, $2.19 (this was what they had available at the moment, probably other ones you can use now)

Total cost: $10.46
Note that you'll also want a small heatsink. I used a generic TO-220 heatsink from Radioshack and it seems to work fine.

As for them frying easily, I've taken apart 3 N64s and haven't fried a single one. I guess some people just have bad luck with them

.

Xorealix · Post by **Xorealix** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 3:40 pm

superdeformed wrote:Why does everyone always disregard switching regulators for powering the 3.3v line?

Probably because hooking up a LM317T is the cheapest and easiest thing to do for beginners. Plus, the parts are available at RadioShack.

Post by **gannon** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 4:20 pm

superdeformed wrote: Total cost: $10.46

Or better yet, buy a 3.3V dc-dc converter for $8.39

xriverfalconx · Post by **xriverfalconx** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 4:24 pm

This is how I tin my wires(side view)

That method is a pain...imo. What i do is after i strip the wire, twist the strands together first, dip the wire in flux, put a little solder on the iron, and simply swipe the wire. The flux helps the solder grab onto the wire MUCH easier. Just thought I'd throw in another idea there.

Xorealix · Post by **Xorealix** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:23 pm

gannon wrote:
superdeformed wrote: Total cost: $10.46
Or better yet, buy a 3.3V dc-dc converter for $8.39

Where are they $8.39? The only one I've seen mentioned was $29 on DigiKey...

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:47 pm

since you're new to this, here's some guides for portablizing N64s:
here's my new one (same as old one, not quite as far yet, more up-to-date with what it does have though)
here's my old one. it's more completed but not very up-to-date
here's RPGtknick's. it's completed but not very up-to-date and not very thorough
and here's my site. you must go to it. it also has a forum so yeah

Post by **gannon** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:51 pm

Xorealix wrote:
gannon wrote:
superdeformed wrote: Total cost: $10.46
Or better yet, buy a 3.3V dc-dc converter for $8.39
Where are they $8.39? The only one I've seen mentioned was $29 on DigiKey...

At my super secret supplier

It needs a few extra parts to function right though, so it'd be ~$10 for one, but it'd also have a
5V line (from a ldo) so you could run a n64p fairly effeciently with a $10 PSU

I was planning on building them and selling them once I got some cash (same idea with my beginner kits), but I never have any

oh, and I plan on giving gamelver as many as he wants whenever he asks for them because I'm cool like that

Note from Gamelver-hee hee hee

...

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 5:56 pm

could you sell me one

? it does work on 8.4v, right?

Post by **gannon** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 6:36 pm

If I had money to buy the parts I would

It'll work on 6V and up (to about 30V I guess)

Post by **Gamelver** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:22 pm

gannon wrote:
Xorealix wrote:
gannon wrote:
superdeformed wrote: Total cost: $10.46
Or better yet, buy a 3.3V dc-dc converter for $8.39
Where are they $8.39? The only one I've seen mentioned was $29 on DigiKey...
At my super secret supplier
It needs a few extra parts to function right though, so it'd be ~$10 for one, but it'd also have a
5V line (from a ldo) so you could run a n64p fairly effeciently with a $10 PSU
I was planning on building them and selling them once I got some cash (same idea with my beginner kits), but I never have any

oh, and I plan on giving gamelver as many as he wants whenever he asks for them because I'm cool like that

Note from Gamelver-hee hee hee ...

aw. thanks gannon

....oh wait, I wrote that last part in

...

anyway, I'll buy one

...or two..or three

Turbo Tax 1.0 · Post by **Turbo Tax 1.0** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:32 pm

gannon that PSU could also help make a lot more DC portables maybe you should advertise that you could use it for a DCp too then i bet youd get even more buyers

Trv · Post by **Trv** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 8:17 pm

id really like one of those. Dont make me use force