Now I cracked her open, and looked at the board to see that a few capacitors are blown (like 220nF, so they could be replaced).
Either way, I was not too concerned about fixing them. Because I noticed the board was separated into three parts: The main board, which mounted the laser and the inputs and carried all the buttons, a second controller card and the screen:
Well when I power it up, I get this weird flowing green screen, which when I adjusted a few pots it came out to be nice and blue.
Here's the kicker though. On the side of this second controller is a switch. It allows you to select between 4:3 or 16:9. When you switch it, it properly sizes to the correct resolution. Ergo, the issue is purely with the data going into it:
4:3:
16:9:
Now this player (Durabrand PVS122B) accepts composite inputs as well via a switch somewhere:
Does this not mean that you can mod it? Here's where I got this theory:
So when I ripped this unit apart, I noticed some interesting pins on this interface card for the LCD (I believe to be a driver):
Note the pin labels. We got A+ and A- (I believe to be audio, as this card is both the LCD and sound driver), GI, RI, and BI (Our red, green, and blue analog inputs perhaps?), 12V sources, and etc.
When I took a multimeter to the pins coming in on that black cable, I was ranging around 15V upline.
Although it is an irregular input, the board has an audio amp in it too. Perhaps the LCD runs on a 12V source and the remainder 3V is for amplifying audio...
Either way, Durabrand products are from WalMart. They are cheap as crap and everybody usually tosses them away when these cheap capacitors blow. I mean I could fix this one for about $1 and get it to work, but I chucked the lens years ago.
The reason I discuss this is because just seeing those pins says to me this board may be able to work independent of the main board. The promises of it are quite amazing. I believe the screen to be 3.5", great for smaller projects, and the driver board is literally half the size of an NES controller!
I am hoping to be able to find out whether there is already 12V across the input pins, and see what they define VCC and VGH and VGL to be.
BTW, the transformer on the LCD is copulate crazy (excuse my language). I got electrocuted pretty bad a few times, and crashed my best multimeter while trying to read a voltage across the LCD power supply (it crashed on both AC and DC!). You can actually get a neat purple stream of electricity flowing across it by moving the wire away from the contact (it fell off, and I was screwing around).
Either way, if anybody knows anything about this driver, please feel free to post here. As well, this may be the easiest driver to work with yet!
-XBrav
