New N64 Concept

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

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blackbox_dev
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New N64 Concept

Post by blackbox_dev »

Well, i'm not really happy with the Battleship 64 concept anymore, so I scrapped it. I could go ahead and do it, it is possible, but I want something else.

Some new things I wanted in this portable were:

• Vertical layout, like the original Game Boy
• The cartridge should slide down the back, and not stick out
• Better cooling. There should be vents and maybe a fan.
• Enough room to keep the mobo shielding. This would prevent frying the N64
• Have the D-Pad and analog stick, as well as having the L, R, and Z buttons (and having them more accesible then my last concept)

Unlike the last concept I made, I first roughly sketched what I wanted it to look like on paper. I made a few different sketches before I came up with what I have now, however I can't scan them in to show you guys. Maybe later.

Introducing the cN64!

Image
Parts may or may not be to scale. I'll adjust the final product as needed.

The "c" stands for "cell". The word "cell" is defined as "the smallest structural unit in a living organism", and the keyword in there is small. I want this to be as small as possible, while still meeting the requirements I listed earlier.

In the top-left corner, you can see a switch which acts as the power switch. In the middle position it's off, when up the batteries can be charged by an external charger (more on that later), and when down the cN64 functions normaly.

Below that are the Z and L button. I made the Z button slightly easier to press then the L button because of the fact that the L button is so rarily used. The only use I can think for it right now is taunting in Super Smash Bros., but hey! It's there should I find a game where the L button does something more important. :P

You'll also see that the R button is on the other side, located at the same position as the Z button. I plan on using standard Radio Shack push buttons for the shoulder buttons.

I did the samething with the D-pad and analog stick. Both of them are easy to access, and the D-pad doesn't get in the way when using the analog stick. It's easy to switch between using them as well, as they are located next to each other.

Everything else is pretty standard. There are charger and headphone jacks at the bottom, vents underneath the screen, and holes for the two speakers at the bottom. Oh yeah, the thing is sexy blue, and there's a matching blue power LED in the top left corner. 8)

To make the case I plan on using a tackle box, and doing some heavy modding and bondo work. The controller ports will be desoldered and won't be attached. A memory pack will be soldered permanently to the controller board. I have a new soldering iron with a super tiny tip for SMD work, so I'm going to relocate the cart slot, remove the extension slot, and remove the RAM expansion slot, where I will permanently solder in the RAM expansion pack.

I haven't decided on batteries yet, but at my local electronic components store they have some 2500-3000mAH Ni-Mh AA batteries with solder tabs, which I believe are commonly used in laptop batteries. Should work a lot better then your everyday rechargable supermarket batteries, which suck at high drain applications. I'm going to use either those, or some Sony camcorder batteries.

The screen is most likely going to be a 5" PS1 screen, which I'm going to LED mod and use S-Video output with.

I thought of a cool idea when I was in the shower yesterday (why does everyone's best ideas come to them in the bathroom? :lol: I know this happens to Ben too...). I can have a hidden compartment with a door on the back of the portable with some DIP switches, which can control the clock speed of the N64. Underclocking/overclocking the N64 is fairly simple, and I think I could easily do it. Then, when I want to save battery life I can underclock the system, and when I have a game like Quake which has quite a slow frame rate, I can overclock the system. Of course, it's a very bad idea to change the clock speed when the system is on. :P

So, now I need to go buy everything. I pretty much destroyed all of my controllers, and fried my N64 (reversed the 12v and 3.3v lines, doh! :x ), so I don't really have anything to start with other then the tools I already have. I figure that this should cost me about $120-$200 CAD, but i'm willing to spend more if needed. N64s fry easily, after all. :P

Questions? Comments? Conundrums? Feel free to post here or PM me!

Long enough post for ya?
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
Neildo_64
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Post by Neildo_64 »

Sounds like a great plan - very in depth and thought out. Although, finals NEVER work out like theories :lol: . I didnt know you could output S-Video with an N64. Good luck and remember, take lots and lots of pictures as you build it. Those are always fun to look at. Keep us updated. :D


Yes, the post is long enough
Triton
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Post by Triton »

like the design! very good except for the l r and Z buttons, but thats up to your personal taste, i have an idea that isnt much different and would also be rather small but i tend to kill n64s very VERY rapidly so if i decide to uptake it i would be outsourcing the soldering to someone else lol
vskid
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Post by vskid »

Triton wrote:like the design! very good except for the l r and Z buttons, but thats up to your personal taste
I agree with Triton, it looks almost impossible to hit R, L, or Z without dropping the system. :? Other than that, very cool design, and good luck.
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blackbox_dev
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Post by blackbox_dev »

Not really... If you have a GBC, try taking your pointer finger and press the volume knob as if it was the Z button on my design, and use the D-pad as normal. I think it's a great idea, and it works fine for me, so I guess that's all that matters. :P
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
vskid
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Post by vskid »

Good point, but a GBC is a lot smaller and lighter. Should still work though.
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daguuy
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Post by daguuy »

Pretty nice design. But shoulder buttons are much better on the back. You can keep Z, R, and L and only use 2 buttons by using an SPDT switch to switch the left one between L and Z. Be careful overclocking, practice raising the 2 CPU pins on a fried N64 before you go for the good one. Using an exacto blade works great, that's how I did it.
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blackbox_dev
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Post by blackbox_dev »

I dunno, having them on the back feels awkward to me.

Thanks for the advice about overclocking, though. :)
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
heroicraptor
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Post by heroicraptor »

I also reccomend putting the buttons on the backside of the controller.
ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer »

Good concept art, makes mine look like crap.

R L and Z are placed as good as an n64 is water proof. :?

Over all, I can obvisoly see that your going to be well thought out. Mesaure everything before starting. and make basic modles. And vaccum forming is the way to go for a portable like this. I enjoyed vac forming.

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Krepticor
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Post by Krepticor »

I hereby Recommend you my concept design and say pull a PS3, By this I mean have two buttonson the lower like triggers and thosewill be dual "Z" buttons then take the z and the r to the top

Or Pull a gamecube...infact do that use a gamecube controller...that makes sense so it must work, and the z will fit for the respected games (ie Golden eye or mario64 or think aobut it!)
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blackbox_dev
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Post by blackbox_dev »

Trust me, the shoulder buttons on the sides feel a lot better then on the back. At least to my hands, anyway. :wink:

I would vaccum form this, but I don't really want to build a vaccum forming table. I want to keep costs as low as possible, and I don't really have any space to put a vaccum forming table.

-iam7805
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
marshallh
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Post by marshallh »

iam7805 wrote: I would vaccum form this, but I don't really want to build a vaccum forming table. I want to keep costs as low as possible, and I don't really have any space to put a vaccum forming table.
Oh, bull. Next you'll be telling me you won't be including a battery in the portable because it takes too much space ;)

Seriously, there's not much to building one. Mine is basically a wooden box the size of a PC case laying on its side, with a grid of holes drilled in the top, and a plastic tube to connect to a shop-vac. Oh, and two wood frames to put the plastic in between.

I'll get you a picture in just a bit.
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ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer »

Marshallh, you should write an idiot's guide on how to build one! After all, You built one!

EDIT: damn lil bro got on my laptop. I always put SS after my posts.

Vaccuum forming is very easy, if you have your art teacher to helpeth you.

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Triton
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Post by Triton »

you would have to be an idiot to not be able to figure it out, i build mine for a grand total investment of 63 cents for a little coupler for my shopvac, its just 4 boards screwed together with a plywood back and a cookie sheet that i found and drilled full of holes, pics are on my website. im gonna use it eventually after i get some plastic (polyproplyene doesnt work, melts too hot)
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