New N64p Attempt

[andrewdorsey]

Why don't yo have it wired like in the diagram ?

Because he has the PTH08080.
That diagram is for the PTH08000.

[hailrazer]

Because he has the PTH08080.
That diagram is for the PTH08000.

Facepalm me please.

[Cojiro]

wire your a/v signal to some rca plugs, plug them into a regular tv, and see if anything happens. if it doesn't work on your tv either, you know that your screen is probably not the problem.

if this is the case, you might then try wiring the original power supply back into the motherboard. remember, just because the led turns on does not necessarily mean that the n64 is getting the correct amount of voltage that it needs.

[Cojiro]

I don't know if you ever tried hooking it back up to the tv, but again, try and isolate the problem:
if you hook it up to your tv and the game doesn't cut you know its not the n64
if you hook up the original power cord to your screen and it doesn't cut you know its not the screen
etc.

I'm a beginner at this as well, and hardly qualified to give anyone any advice, but I have run into similar problems. When this happened to me it was the 3.3v chip. I too had the PTH08080WAZ when I first started out, and wasn't having much luck, but then I decided to get the PTH08000 and it worked out. If all else fails, that's something you might try. Good luck.

[mako321]

normally, putting the battery back into the charger the right way will bring the protection circuit of the thing back to life.

[ToastBucket]

while all you guys are talking about batteries...if you hook up your charger to your n64p and turn it on, can it run from wall power and charge the battery at the same time with the same charger, or are seperate ones needed?

[ToastBucket]

http://www.batteryspace.com/highpowerpo ... arate.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

is two of these enough?

[mako321]

check to make sure that it's the pcb and not the batteries themselves, check each cell to make sure they're about 3-4v.

[ToastBucket]

Good luck. I've been having problems also. Whenever something works, something breaks.....I put the positive and negative into my screen but sometimes it doesn't turn on and I have to wiggle the wires around. They're glued over so this sucks....I might find a trace and use that instead since the solder pads on the screen suck

[Basement_Modder]

I just found this topic and it looks really great!

for the power switch and charging plug thing, buy a SP-DT switch from radioshack. That's single-pole, double throw. It has 3 pins. When flipped one way, it connects the middle pin to one of the outside pins. When flipped the other way, it connects the middle pin to the other outside pin. You need to connect your battery positive (red wire on the pack) to the middle pin. Now you need to connect the positive wires from your regulator, N64, and screen and attach them all to one of the outside pins. An easy way to do this is to solder all 3 wires together onto one wire, then solder that one wire to the switch. Now, to the other outside leg of the switch, solder the positive line from your charging jack. Now, when the switch is flipped one way (on) it will connect battery + to N64 and screen +, but not the charger. When it is flipped the other way (off), it will connect battery + to charger +, but not the system. This allows you to charge the system when it's turned off. What about ground, you ask? Just connect battery - directly to N64, regulator, screen, and charging jack negative. It's only ground, and can be attached at all times.

Hope this fixes your "screen always on" issue.

[Basement_Modder]

My advice for your first portable: if the paint job is descent already, then just close the case the second everything works for you. Don't fiddle, because it will cause problems, and god will laugh at you.

[Bacman]

Could use a little bit of polishing, but anyways nice portable.

[hailrazer]

So you're using the Superpad 64 with all the original parts , right?

And all you did was extend the wires?

If so you needed to hook back up the two black wires to the z-button. On the z-button board with green side facing you, the ground is the solder pad on the right, it connects to the black wire that is on the left on the controller board with green side facing you.

[hailrazer]

So you're using the Superpad 64 with all the original parts , right?

And all you did was extend the wires?

If so you needed to hook back up the two black wires to the z-button. On the z-button board with green side facing you, the ground is the solder pad on the right, it connects to the black wire that is on the left on the controller board with green side facing you.

But it really shouldn't matter which is which as long as they both are hooked up.

[hailrazer]

Not exactly no, I don't have them hooked up like the original. I'm using the PS1 controller L1 and L2 buttons, but I only had it hooked up so that the L2 button was the only Z. So this left me with an extra wire. When I hooked up on originally, but both the Z button and y-axis didn't work, so then I switched the wire to the other Z wire and they both worked after that...but now the y-axis does not work at all. Thats why I was wondering where the second wire from the Z went to, because it might not be completing a connection to the ground on the Y-axis. But I dunno...I wish I could explain it better. But right now, the Y-axis does not work and that's the big issue.

Oh then you should have run a ground wire to the L1/L2 button, then the black wire on the right (closest to where the analog stick used to be ) would have been hooked up to the L2 button. Then the Z would work.