Wii remote with no sensor bar?

[Erlex]

Would it be possible to take apart the sensor bar and proportionally move the LEDs closer to each other? Thereby tricking the Wii into thinking you are further away?

[tom61]

it draws around 3 amps, although the power brick is rated for 3.7 so put through an inverter thats a fair bit. Im looking to do something similar and im lookign into 5 1 amp 12 v regualtors in parralel with 5 w resistors on the outputs to power the wii from 2 7.3 V battery packs in series

Multiple regulators in parallel don't work well, the load will try 'passing around' from regulator to regulator which will cause voltage oscillations or possibly even fry regulators. Maxim Semiconductor has non-linear regulators that can handle more amps.

If you want to use 12v from the car, make sure its regulated to 12v. The alternator puts out ~14v, which might not be healthy for the Wii. To test if the power point is regulated, stick your multimeter's leads to the power points contacts and rev the engine to ~2000 RPMs and see what the voltage is.
If you don't have any regulated 12v points, you could just use a power inverter. The Wii barely draws any power, so a cheap 100w one should be fine.

They also make 12v regulated power supplies for car use.

Would it be possible to take apart the sensor bar and proportionally move the LEDs closer to each other? Thereby tricking the Wii into thinking you are further away?

Yep. Ben used basically the same tactic in his Wii portable. Though, it seems just as easy to create a new one that's smaller (they're just IR LEDs, and you don't need a cluster most of the time).
Edit: just in case you're taking relative to each other in the clusters, no. They're already nearly on top of each other and register as one to the Wii remote anyway.

Also, if you have a bigger TV (>27") making a custom wider sensor bar can greatly improve your accuracy.

[HotDog-Cart]

Lead acid eh? hmm.

What do you mean by 50% more than I'd need? Like, I dont get it? They'll have a higher capacity?

[vskid]

Like, if you want to run it for 4 hours and it draws 3A, get 18Ah worth of batteries instead of 12Ah. Gives your playing time a buffer, and keeps the batteries from having to discharge all the way. However, if you can charge them right after use (get to your destination, etc), you might be able to get away with discharging them a bit more.

[HotDog-Cart]

Well, it can't be too heavy, and I'm exhausted (exam week.).

Could you "hold my hand/spoon feed" me some different types of batteries and how many of each battery that I would need to make it run for 2-3 hours? (The screen is self powered. So, do NOT include that.)

[tom61]

Just a note on the earlier idea I mentioned here; I tried the motion plus things on a display system at Wal-Mart, no help without the sensor bar. Even after calibrating it in Sports Resort, covering the IR camera resulted in no hand cursor in the menus.

[HotDog-Cart]

Thanks for trying Tom.

What batteries do you guys recommend? Lead Acid has already been recommended, but it seems to be a very hassle filled process to use them.

The screen is self powered, so I do not need the batteries to power that. I just need enough of one type of battery to power the wii for a minimum of 2 hours. (I'm perfectly fine with just 2 hours.)

[kralt]

You could just build the sensor bar into the frame of the TV or whatever it is you are using. It shouldnt be any more complicated then drilling some holes and sticking some IR led's into it. At that point you could find a +V source in the tv and use it to power the led's. I've been wanting to do this at home, but haven't found the motivation yet. Check out this link http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; to figure out what parts you need, but it really isn't a lot of stuff to get.