Previous update - forgot to up it here too:
Cut off the side plate off the metal on the DC drive base, steel, so was quite tough.
Using a fan on the heatsinks to keep everything cool. This is one designed as a PCI fan for a computer - salvaged from my first N64 system!
The fan is a good one, better than is needed for this project, but keeps it all nice and cool!
Here is problem number one - the overall thickness. 65mm at the moment, which means the final system would be 85mm thick (enclosed CD). Have to get this down, even if only down to 75mm!
Anyway, ran the system for about 10-15 mins as in gameplay not logo screens; air from fan slightly warm but barely so, everything works fine. Admittingly, the screen isn't connected to the battery as well yet, will be.
Composite looks nice, RGB will be better still!
Problem number two - I am used to playing Quake 3 with the cursor keys on a keyboard to move and mouse for elevation and firing. On the Dreamcast, it uses the rather sensitive joystick for all direction movement, two of the buttons for strafe, one for moving forward, shoulder button for fire. Really wierd, had trouble trying to control it!
I think playing this game on the proper DC controller sucks compared to the precision from a computer keyboard and mouse combo, i'm either going to have to get used to it or make the portable purely designed for this one game; eg replace the joystick with buttons instead, etc.
I'm a bit concerned about the thickness of the system; and the weight too - the DC is far from light, and that's before you even add batteries!
If the portable is made double length, then the system can be half as thick roughly, however, double size would be too big, also had two plastic containers totalling 90mm thick, holdable but not overly comfortable; 70mm or so is fine, so the sides can be sloped/stepped. Mulling over ideas at the moment. Might also reduce the height more if I can so something about the fan (ie smaller one). Lots to work out...
Update:
Heatsinks get warm quickly, tried just having a fan blowing in the general direction of the heatsinks instead of using the PC blower unit, after about 7 minutes the screen started to get flash lines over it, chips must have been getting just a bit too hot.
So compromise - less height and same principle of a PC blower (as I used before) - home made version, made from cardboard and Blu-tac. The Blu-tac is easy to remove, not going to harm anything if removed, yet forms an airtight seal (reason to use it) as it is just weak putty. Fan is hot glued to the card. The fan will not be in the way of anything and away from the DC's drive unit. The card sits right on top of the two chips and heatsinks, the fan blows air in, out past both chips and out the other side (exhaust). This saves me about 10mm from the system height already. Tested it, a very good airflow indeed!
Before (BTW, the hole in the left heatsink was from a while back, however as the original gunk used on the DC to connect to the metal plate was only about 50% coverage, should be no issue with a hole in the heatsink).
Blu-tac pressed into place
Done.
Ran it for nearly 10 minutes, fine, no issues; although the 7805 was rather hot! I might well put a TI card there instead of a 7805 as it will be cool and also (as I was reading recently) will help to prolong the life of the batteries because of the way it works.
