N64p Project Progress

[Kainevg]

Hello guys,

Im making my first portable now seeing as I had my old nintendo 64 lying around and I went to play it but it didn't work, the power supply had broken but the actual console was fine.

Before I go into any detail I will show you the work area, I think its pretty good









Tell me what you think..

So what have I dont so far.. hmm..

Well I first took apart the console using a pair of pliers to grip those pesky nintendo screws (Damn you nintendo! ) and unscrew them.
I whipped out the old soldering iron and sucker and removed the power supply plug, after that I went down to a wholesaler and bought 8 Energizer Industrial AA's (8) and some battery holders (1x4, 2x2) and I wired them in series to give me a total of 12v.



I also wired another two in parallel for the 3.3v side. As you can see there I made up a regulator for the 3.3v side and I also made one for the 12v side because I couldn't get the console to run of just two double AA's because that only gave it around 2.7v when it HAS to have basically the right voltage so I used 3 battery's and lowered it down and I lowered the 12v side to 6.8... I ment to make it 7.4ish but meh..

I plugged it into my TV and it ran this time xD..

But after around 1 minute it restarted the console... It then did it again, and again, and again untill I turned it off... I turned it back on and checked the 3.3v side and it had dropped to 2.8-2.9 so thats the reason, that won't be a problem with my proper batterys so its all good.

The reason I lowered it to 7.4v is because I ordered two 7.4v 4000 mah batterys that im going to wire in parallel so I was just checking to make sure it ran of that voltage.

Im doing a catridge re-location this weekend and I was wondering if I have to unsolder the EXP port that attaches to the other side of the catridge slot or whether I can just solder it to the pins where the EXP port is and have them both there (Thanks for your help to whoever responds).



For now thats about it, I've ordered a PSone screen and the batterys so ill expect them to come in the next 1-3 weeks.
Im also planning to make a vacuum table when im up to that stage so hopefully this will turn out good
-Kaine

[blaze3927]

i like the workspace and yeh the 12v live goes to a (7805) regulator? i think so it only needs about 7.4v.
how much did you have to stump up from the psone screen?

[avert1]

Im doing a catridge re-location this weekend and I was wondering if I have to unsolder the EXP port that attaches to the other side of the catridge slot or whether I can just solder it to the pins where the EXP port is and have them both there

You don't have to desolder the EXP port to relocate the cartridge slot. Like you guessed, you can just solder it to the pins where the EXP port is.

[Kainevg]

@ Blaze3927

i like the workspace

*RAWR*

Glad you do, I have bought two 7.4v 4000 maH batterys that im wiring in parallel so I dont see the need to use a regulator for the 12v line only the 3.3v line and I havn't actually got the PSone screen yet, I ordered it just before I typed the last message so as I said im expecting it in the next 1-3 weeks but I plan to trim it down nearly to the 5" screen, im still deciding if I need to do the led mod.

@Avert1

Thats great, can I say file the EXP port down abit though? I've never had a use for it in the 13 years i've had the console .

-Kaine

Edit:

Everyone always seems to be adding there own heat sinks to the nintendo to replace the three small ones on the main board and the big sink that attaches to the metal casing (Which I suppose it is heatsinking also). Is it important to do this or can I keep the original heatsinking? Thanks

[Kainevg]

How important is it to have the D-pad? I dont seem to recall using it but just want to get your opinion guys

-Kaine (Sorry for the double post)

[blaze3927]

d-pad isnt too necessary, i've never played a game that needs it, and the n64 "heatsinks" dont work in the same way all they do is disperse the heat across the big metal sheet in the n64, so they won't work as well as normal heatsinks

[Kainevg]

d-pad isnt too necessary, i've never played a game that needs it, and the n64 "heatsinks" dont work in the same way all they do is disperse the heat across the big metal sheet in the n64, so they won't work as well as normal heatsinks

What if I were to leave the metal sheets on there, or is that wasting too much space? Its not really adding height to the system itself because you have the memory pak that rises above the big heatsink as well... If I were to put new heatsinks on etc i'd have to install a fan aswell, where would be the best location for that to be?

I am just wondering, because people say its very easy to fry a nintendo 64 board.. I have run into no difficulty at all and I dont see how I could possibly over heat it or give it the wrong voltage etc... is it because im being extra careful or what?

(I know im bombarding people with questions but I dont want to stuff this up )

With the PSone screen, that just runs of 7.4 volts and takes roughly 700-800 maH without led mod right? How easy is it to fry?

(Sorry) With vacuum forming can I use my standard vacuum cleaner or do I have to use one of those shop vacs that are really powerful?

Thats it for now, I can think of numerous other questions but i'll wait untill I get answers for these

-Kaine

[blaze3927]

mkay lets begin

1- yes i wouldnt reccomend using the original heatsinks as they are just big chunky and annoying, and yes a fan is recommended)

2- doesnt really matter where your fan is (mines going at the back) as long as you get a bit of airflow through the portable

3- i have personally never fried an n64 board, I've never had any issues when i smell something smoking when i have wired the batteries around the wrong way, I was however once stupid by trying to solder straight to the cart thingo chip with a big solering iron, leaving a blob of solder across the chip, however once that was cleaned up it was fine. I'd like to think that the durability of PAL boards is better than ntsc ones because I hear a lot of other (american) users saying that its incredibly easy to fry an n64 board,

4- yes the psone screen does run off 7.4v, i haven't had any experience with an actual psone screen myself but there are a couple of psone guides/tech specs around the forum

5- I use my home vacuum cleaner for vacuum forming, even if its on a low setting it works fine as long as the styrenes hot enough

hope this helps

[Kainevg]

What would I do without you blaze

Thanks for you help,

Anyways update time:

I've desolderized the Ext port that the cartridge port attaches to and im going to buy myself some ribbon cable today or just normal wire, what ever is available and do the relocation, (Ill post some finished pics when its done).

I found the easiest way to desolder things is to use a desoldering braid, you can unsolder 3-5 pins at a time and if your technique is right get just about all of the solder out. Ill get a picture soon, you guys should have a look if you dont already use them now.

-Kaine

EDIT:

I've decided to wait for my batterys and screen to come before I do the catridge relocation because I need to know the layout of the system so I dont have to use anymore wire than is needed, in the meantime im making a lie detector that works by measuring skin resistance, so far I have the circuit board designed so now I have to paint on the copper tracks and dip the whole thing in lovely lovely acid