How to Add a Low-Battery Light to Your Portable
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You'd just need a transistor for each LED.
Also about resistor wattage: instead of guessing about it just do the math
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Lets make the incorrect assumption that the transistor acts like a short circuit when its "ON", and that your battery is 7.5V. In that case, the most voltage the 1k resistor will see is 7.5V, but probably less.
Watts = V^2/R = 57mW
So as you can see, you can use an 1/8W resistor and it would still be perfectly fine.
As a general rule, if your voltage is less than 5v and your resistors are more than 1k, you can always use 1/4w resistors without worry. (max resistor power is exactly 250mW)
Also about resistor wattage: instead of guessing about it just do the math
Lets make the incorrect assumption that the transistor acts like a short circuit when its "ON", and that your battery is 7.5V. In that case, the most voltage the 1k resistor will see is 7.5V, but probably less.
Watts = V^2/R = 57mW
So as you can see, you can use an 1/8W resistor and it would still be perfectly fine.
As a general rule, if your voltage is less than 5v and your resistors are more than 1k, you can always use 1/4w resistors without worry. (max resistor power is exactly 250mW)

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superdeformed
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You should not need a 1W resistor, and using one isn't likely to change how much heat is produced by this circuit. Even if you're using a 12V battery, the most current that can pass through the resistor is 12mA (assuming the transistor is a perfect switch, so even this is a little high), which means your resistor is dissipating 0.144W. Things heat up when you run power through them, this doesn't mean it's dangerous though.
As for power consumption, 40mA is a pretty big current draw for a power indicator. Ideally you would want an indicator circuit to use as little power as possible when you're running off of a battery. As is, you're burning a significant amount of current through the zener and base of the transistor and relying on their imperfections to keep the circuit from smoking itself, which is generally not a good idea. Using the "tuning" resistor will significantly decrease the current draw and as you said it will also increase the voltage that triggers the LED to turn on, but you can compensate for this by using a lower voltage zener.
Another way to build an indicator would be using an op-amp (an LM741 would probably work fine). You could easily switch between two LEDs, and the only current you'd really have to worry about is how much is going through your LEDs. If you only want one LED to light when the voltage gets low, you could just use a comparator IC and it would use even less power (you could of course use a comparator to do two, it would just increase the number of components in the circuit).
As for power consumption, 40mA is a pretty big current draw for a power indicator. Ideally you would want an indicator circuit to use as little power as possible when you're running off of a battery. As is, you're burning a significant amount of current through the zener and base of the transistor and relying on their imperfections to keep the circuit from smoking itself, which is generally not a good idea. Using the "tuning" resistor will significantly decrease the current draw and as you said it will also increase the voltage that triggers the LED to turn on, but you can compensate for this by using a lower voltage zener.
Another way to build an indicator would be using an op-amp (an LM741 would probably work fine). You could easily switch between two LEDs, and the only current you'd really have to worry about is how much is going through your LEDs. If you only want one LED to light when the voltage gets low, you could just use a comparator IC and it would use even less power (you could of course use a comparator to do two, it would just increase the number of components in the circuit).
According to information posted a bit earlier, even a 1/4 resistor will be fine. I said a 1w just to be safe.bacteria wrote:So guys, I have bought the components Mario suggested: using a transistor, two 3.6v Zener diodes to make the LED come on at about 7.2v (the 7.4v Li-ions start at 8.3v) and the 1k 1 watt resistor.
Is it going to work as it should, be reliable, not get hot and be nice and safe? Comments please!
Also, the two-LED one does not work yet, I need to do a bit of experimentation. Just go with the 1-LED one for now.

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Rekarp
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something similar to this
http://www.ece.uvic.ca/499/2001b/group0 ... kt_low.jpg
I would replace the voltage divider at that is tied into the inverter pin of the opamp with a potentiometer so you can adjust when the LED goes off
http://www.ece.uvic.ca/499/2001b/group0 ... kt_low.jpg
I would replace the voltage divider at that is tied into the inverter pin of the opamp with a potentiometer so you can adjust when the LED goes off
I also found a similar schematic using a quad op-amp.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepage ... #meter.gif
Gives four different voltage level indicators.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepage ... #meter.gif
Gives four different voltage level indicators.
DCP---Done
Re:
Back to bacteria's question:

(It would be the other way round for caps btw)
Like Kyo said, resistors in parallel add up as 1/(thier resistance). However, you could achieve this using 4 x 250 ohm resistors in series. Then it would give you an equivalent 1K ohm resistor at 1 watt.bacteria wrote: So, if you put 4 x 0.25 watt 1k ohm resistors in parallel would that give 1K ohm resistors at 1 watt? (like amperage works on batteries)?
(It would be the other way round for caps btw)
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grayfox126
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Re: How to Add a Low-Battery Light to Your Portable
Mario, you are awesome! XD Im definitely going to place this in my DCp
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Virtual Boy
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Re: How to Add a Low-Battery Light to Your Portable
Does a 1/4W 75ohm resistor work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/75-ohm-Axial-Lead-C ... .m14.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/75-ohm-Axial-Lead-C ... .m14.l1262

