Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS

collinE · Post by **collinE** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:01 pm

bacteria wrote:Ben also has used hot glue in his projects too, BTW.

Ben's products aren't perfect. The guy who bought his PS3 laptop off ebay said that it failed because of heat. Hot glue is fantastic and I use it, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have its problems. hailrazer has a valid argument no matter where you live.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:30 pm

actually I agree on hot glue. I haven't actually MADE a case yet, but I've used hot glue to other things and the thing it taught me is "use it, but don't rely on it

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:57 pm

I know hailrazer is right about hot glue and know from other threads that he knows what he is talking about on this. After all, the ability to twist hot glue with pliers until it weakens enough to remove it can be a positive when it comes to adjusting errors - also demonstrates it is strong when the items it attaches to are rigid, but weak if there is movement; which was his point in the first place.

What I have found though, interesting enough, is on material like perspex, hot glue doesn't adhere that well, easy to pop off when sandwiched between two surfaces; however, it seems to really stick to plasticard (styrene as called in the USA) and requires tugging to release; which makes it more suitable.

I had tried Ploy-Weld which was supposed to be a really tough plastic welder bonder - it works on some plastics really well but is useless on plasticard.

Using even a very tiny spot of hot glue between plasticard and a PSone screen is enough to hold it firmly in place; which I didn't get with perspex. It is also hard to persuade hot glue to pry off plasticard - which is why I find it good on this project. Anyway, those are my findings.

Remember when I disassembled the batteries to gain extra height in the case? This is because the back of the PSone console mobo will be around in line with the base of the inside of the case backing; the joystick assembly comes to near the top of the case top - I intend to have the joystick backing resting on the back of the PSone console board (the underside), that will make it rigid; also extend a raised platform for the back of the d-pad assembly and also the 4 button pad to the underside of the PSone console board. That will keep it rigid. Using what is already there, and adaptation is always a good idea!

That will limit any stretching the hot glue would normally have to tolerate, so preserve the bond. Not easy to describe in words, you will see what I mean as the project moves forward.

Neildo_64 · Post by **Neildo_64** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:32 pm

hailrazer wrote:Of course our handhelds aren't supposed to be retail quality, but I HATE fixing something after it's done and buttoned up

WHAT/!? Well, speak for yourself I guess. Mine are supposed to be better than retail quality.

Coming along nicely Bacteria. I just realized that you have the same color paint as me and the same decal transfers. I think you should definitely use more screws, less glues to secure things though. Too many people are best friends with Mr. glue gun.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:52 am

the only problem with screws is that unless you add screw posts to your vacuum template, you'll have to make screw posts, which you'll have to glue to the case somehow.

a good alternative to hotglue would be (and only if you're really really really finished playing around/fixing errors on that part) epoxy

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:18 am

Not a good idea to make something absolutely fixed into a case, apart from screw posts, as sure as eggs are eggs, at some point you will need to replace something; eg light blows in PSone screen, joystick fails, wire fails, or whatever.

I can only qualify hot glue in my system from my own experiences - it is good for the job; perhaps I don't get the issue as I don't use hot glue for strength as such, but for support. For example, fixing the shoulder buttons in place, they aren't held in by hot glue: some hot glue holds the tact switch in place onto perspex (doesn't move, so fine) and the perspex provides the support and rigidity; hot glue then secures that to the case itself. In other words, using as a support is fine. Evens out the pressure, makes the pressure even and there is no pulling or twisting involved. Anyway, as mentioned, what works for me doesn't necessarily work for others, you can make your systems with whatever bonder you like!

Did a quick Google for things made by hot glue - someone made a full-sized chandelier from it: link

Neildo_64 · Post by **Neildo_64** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:54 am

Crap, hide that link before SS sees it.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 2:09 am

...excellent.

Anyway yeah, I was mostly talking about the screwposts when I mentioned epoxy.

Neildo_64 · Post by **Neildo_64** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 2:31 am

I use superglue and plastic epoxy (not the marine putty type stuff) for holding screw posts. Recently I've mostly been using small nuts as screw posts for machine screws and it works great.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:49 am

Neildo_64 wrote:Crap, hide that link before SS sees it.

Same thought I had

ChrisKoopa · Post by **ChrisKoopa** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:58 pm

this is lookin great

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:33 pm

Thanks!

More updates in the morning.

Noticed that some joysticks have a fat plastic shaft to hold the joystick cap on, some are slim and metal shafts. On two official PSone controllers I have opened, they are the thicker plastic shaft ones. I therefore decided, as this is a walk-through guide, to use these joysticks instead. Interestingly too, the joystick caps are not as big on the official PSone controllers.

Interestingly also, the small mobo holding the joysticks on the official PSone controllers are also different. No issue, just FYI.

Ok, dremeled out one of the joysticks from a PSone controller board and cut to size. I don't want any rogue connections, so will be joining each joystick connection (6 in total plus 2 tact switch terminals) to each of the corresponding ones on the PSone controller mobo. This will also make it easy to replicate.

Cut through all the traces to leave all the joystick connections separate:

Stuck on a rubber tact switch in place, as before; trimmed off the corners a bit.

Realised the joystick cap wasn't sat properly in the hole, as I needed to trim the shoulder button down more; otherwise the button would stick when pressed also.

Start and end:

Just took a shave off the edge of the joystick cap, where it meets the edge of the PSone screen.

Spray painted the joystick caps and d-pad with metallic black, then used metallic sealer spray paint to seal it.

jjhammerstein · Post by **jjhammerstein** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:08 pm

How do the joysticks feel now that you've painted them? Are they still rubbery and grippy?

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:41 pm

Why do you never desolder anything? It seems like it would be a lot more hassle to keep them on the original boards.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:05 pm

jjhammerstein - That was something I was concerned with before I spray painted them, as coating the joystick caps is bound to reduce some grip - however, there is no noticeable difference after painting them, plenty of grip and friction; due to the fact that the top of the joystick cap was patterned rough from stock, so remained so after.

Mario - I do desolder components where needed, although typically off the system mobo - so far all I have desoldered on this project is one of the joystick ports/memory ports; I will have to desolder the other one, the reset button, CD present button, a/v port and power port.

You might be surprised Mario, but (shock, horror) I will be desoldering the joystick from the board after all, as I need to recover the 2mm it takes up from the height. Job for this morning.

I anticipate being able to complete the following work this morning (working this afternoon and evening) - desolder the back of the two joystick boards, complete the other joystick assembly, secure both in place; get the d-pad and 4 button pad assemblies completed; then if time remaining (else Wednesday), cut and rewire the top of the PSone screen mobo and secure in place. Quite a bit of work there though; what I don't do today I will do tomorrow (also just have morning for project work on Wednesday).