Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS
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jjhammerstein
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bacteria
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Cut the long wire leading to the protection circuit from the cell and snipped off one of the contacts to the protection circuit from the other terminal - doesn't matter which one.

The decals have had 4 thin sprays with varnish to preserve them, as it said in the instructions, if you don't do that then the ink can come off when put into water.

It is just a case then of cutting the items off the sheet, fairly close to the image edges and putting into a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds, then applying to the case.

Using small pieces, you can remove it entirely from the paper backing before putting onto the case, with larger pieces you need to slide it off the paper onto the case to stop it sagging. The item can be adjusted in place; when done, use a tissue to lightly press it into place and remove the water residue.
Result - the decal with the IntoPlay logo for under the screen was too big, so just printed out smaller sets; waiting for 30 mins to dry, then I need to apply 4 layers of spray paint varnish as before, so I can set it onto the case in a couple/few hours time.

Got the small icons in place, I think it looks really excellent so far!

UPDATE:
The smaller decals look far better on the case than before; however, as the decals are so fragile, I got slight pull on it, so having to re-print, re-varnish and re-apply. Will have this done tonight, as the decals need (it says) 24 hours to set before final varnish on case - I will have to give it more like 19 hours, but that will be fine - want to crack on tomorrow!!
It says to leave the decals in water to soak for 30 seconds before removal to place onto case; however I find 40 seconds better. When doing larger decals, leave it about 55 seconds, not enough for the plastic to separate from the paper, but as it starts to - easier then to place.
Fixed the L2 and R2 shoulder buttons in place. Unlike fitting the L1 and R1 buttons, these are easy to mount.
Firstly, used a little putty behind the buttons to make sure the button sticks out at the right angle and by the right amount. A strip of perspex was then cut out to stretch to meet against the system case itself, the tact switch (rubber membrane one) was then stuck to this strip, the two ends of the perspex were then hot glued in place, so the tact switch is up against the button backing.

Shoulder buttons installed now, and pic also shows the on/off decal. Ignore the piece of hot glue in pic!

Looks like, by opening up the batteries, as I have done, I can get 6 cells in the case, and with less height. This not only solved my previous problem with overall height, but also means I now have 6000mA instead of 4000mA; so I should get about 3.5 hours playtime from the system after charge. This is perfectly acceptable!
More updates soon.

The decals have had 4 thin sprays with varnish to preserve them, as it said in the instructions, if you don't do that then the ink can come off when put into water.

It is just a case then of cutting the items off the sheet, fairly close to the image edges and putting into a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds, then applying to the case.

Using small pieces, you can remove it entirely from the paper backing before putting onto the case, with larger pieces you need to slide it off the paper onto the case to stop it sagging. The item can be adjusted in place; when done, use a tissue to lightly press it into place and remove the water residue.
Result - the decal with the IntoPlay logo for under the screen was too big, so just printed out smaller sets; waiting for 30 mins to dry, then I need to apply 4 layers of spray paint varnish as before, so I can set it onto the case in a couple/few hours time.

Got the small icons in place, I think it looks really excellent so far!

UPDATE:
The smaller decals look far better on the case than before; however, as the decals are so fragile, I got slight pull on it, so having to re-print, re-varnish and re-apply. Will have this done tonight, as the decals need (it says) 24 hours to set before final varnish on case - I will have to give it more like 19 hours, but that will be fine - want to crack on tomorrow!!
It says to leave the decals in water to soak for 30 seconds before removal to place onto case; however I find 40 seconds better. When doing larger decals, leave it about 55 seconds, not enough for the plastic to separate from the paper, but as it starts to - easier then to place.
Fixed the L2 and R2 shoulder buttons in place. Unlike fitting the L1 and R1 buttons, these are easy to mount.
Firstly, used a little putty behind the buttons to make sure the button sticks out at the right angle and by the right amount. A strip of perspex was then cut out to stretch to meet against the system case itself, the tact switch (rubber membrane one) was then stuck to this strip, the two ends of the perspex were then hot glued in place, so the tact switch is up against the button backing.

Shoulder buttons installed now, and pic also shows the on/off decal. Ignore the piece of hot glue in pic!

Looks like, by opening up the batteries, as I have done, I can get 6 cells in the case, and with less height. This not only solved my previous problem with overall height, but also means I now have 6000mA instead of 4000mA; so I should get about 3.5 hours playtime from the system after charge. This is perfectly acceptable!
More updates soon.
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Life of Brian
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bacteria
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments 
Clipped off the batteries; added more solder to the existing tabs.

Here is the configuration for wiring, which I worked out:

First set of cells in place, can't see in pic, but the batteries are a few millimeters from the top, as needed. The protection circuit is on the bottom of the case, out of the way.

Decals on!


Last update for day:
Got the 6 cells in place, and all wired up. Two sets could be left intact, the first one I did I had to rewire.
The blue wire is positive, brown negative. The wires I used I bought from a hardware store, 2 core cable, 3 amp.

Clipped off the batteries; added more solder to the existing tabs.

Here is the configuration for wiring, which I worked out:

First set of cells in place, can't see in pic, but the batteries are a few millimeters from the top, as needed. The protection circuit is on the bottom of the case, out of the way.

Decals on!

Last update for day:
Got the 6 cells in place, and all wired up. Two sets could be left intact, the first one I did I had to rewire.
The blue wire is positive, brown negative. The wires I used I bought from a hardware store, 2 core cable, 3 amp.

Last edited by bacteria on Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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bacteria
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Logo is glossy, the case is glossy (lots of coats of varnish) - matches. It will have a light coat of extra varnish tomorrow, to seal and preserve the decals.
The red on the logo gives a subtle interest; bear in mind all the controls will be black; including the d-pad, which I recently spray painted black. Colours and typefaces, etc are quite subjective! I really like it.
BTW - updated last log with all 6 cells in place. Tight fit, but all fine!
The red on the logo gives a subtle interest; bear in mind all the controls will be black; including the d-pad, which I recently spray painted black. Colours and typefaces, etc are quite subjective! I really like it.
BTW - updated last log with all 6 cells in place. Tight fit, but all fine!
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bacteria
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Thanks! I will make videos of the system, rest assured! 
Naturally, having the extra cells has increased the weight of the system, each battery pack (2 cells) is 99g, so I have nearly 300g in the system for batteries! You will notice that the weight of the system is fairly even, with a bias to the left side, which is fine, as you hold that area well anyway as that is where the d-pad is.
The backing plate is nearly dried now, going to leave it overnight for the varnish to set hard; then apply the decal to it; will upload pic of it tomorrow!
Talking of tomorrow's work, will get the L1 and R1 shoulder buttons in place and also the joysticks; d-pad assembly, 4 button pad assembly; plus the PSone screen controls and start and select buttons; and the PSone screen itself. That will just leave the PSone screen mobo, which needs a little modding; and the PSone console board which needs work done on it to remove components and wire as required.
Naturally, having the extra cells has increased the weight of the system, each battery pack (2 cells) is 99g, so I have nearly 300g in the system for batteries! You will notice that the weight of the system is fairly even, with a bias to the left side, which is fine, as you hold that area well anyway as that is where the d-pad is.
The backing plate is nearly dried now, going to leave it overnight for the varnish to set hard; then apply the decal to it; will upload pic of it tomorrow!
Talking of tomorrow's work, will get the L1 and R1 shoulder buttons in place and also the joysticks; d-pad assembly, 4 button pad assembly; plus the PSone screen controls and start and select buttons; and the PSone screen itself. That will just leave the PSone screen mobo, which needs a little modding; and the PSone console board which needs work done on it to remove components and wire as required.
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jjhammerstein
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The logo is great, a good size.
I hope you don't mess the back one up, I want to see finished pictures!
I hope you don't mess the back one up, I want to see finished pictures!
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Ben Cebhrem
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bacteria
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jjhammerstein - Thanks. This one will be super special, guarantee it!
Ben Cebhrem - Cool! Yes, very tight tolerances indeed; I am going for a small system, this is the way to do it!
Yes, no reason others can't follow my work and get the same results; as long as they are careful in their work and follow my guide fully; it isn't like I have used non-standard bits. Most critical part is getting the holes in the front of the case done exactly, then everything else follows fine.
Somebody doing my system will not be a complete novice after all; all they need though is to be careful, methodical, patient; good with a dremel and soldering iron. Most people on this forum would be able to replicate my work, especially as my kit will include the hard to get hold of components needed for this project: magnets, rubber tact switches, etc - will be included.
Ben Cebhrem - Cool! Yes, very tight tolerances indeed; I am going for a small system, this is the way to do it!
Yes, no reason others can't follow my work and get the same results; as long as they are careful in their work and follow my guide fully; it isn't like I have used non-standard bits. Most critical part is getting the holes in the front of the case done exactly, then everything else follows fine.
Somebody doing my system will not be a complete novice after all; all they need though is to be careful, methodical, patient; good with a dremel and soldering iron. Most people on this forum would be able to replicate my work, especially as my kit will include the hard to get hold of components needed for this project: magnets, rubber tact switches, etc - will be included.

