Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:05 am

Standartisation, well. It's not quite the same with homebrew stuff. If it's mass produced, it's not really homebrew (yours doesn't qualify as mass-produced, of course, but I'm just making a point). Of course it will be helpful to newbies, but they won't be learning as much as they would from doing it themselves. Then again, if they want to learn, they'll just not buy it or do their own case for the second or third system.

It might lead to some more PSOne portables, we don't have that many of those.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:21 am

Site is slow again, must be all the interest from Ben's new Xbox 360 lappy!!

Kyo - Some people here get Polycases and spend ages applying bondo to correct the issues with the original case to make their systems, many make cases out of other system cases (frankecasing), some try to make one from scratch (as I did on my previous projects) with varying degrees of success; sometimes someone comes along and makes a case that everyone goes "wow", like marshallh did with the L64; the majority of people here want to make systems with nice cases but can't. I was in this category until recently.

I will be selling cases and basic kits; however the user has to be skilled to get the right result, it is not for total noobs; you need to be capable with a soldering iron, Dremel, files, and sanding. My kits are designed for people with moderate to good skills who don't want to spend months or years learning techniques but are prepared to put a hundred or so hours into making their own system, following a guide, and liking the result. Even if the buyer is a bit poor cutting out holes, they will end up with a good system, although of course it won't look as good as it could

. People can use different buttons and layout if they like, however I will be providing a template to help position everything accurately.

This is an expensive hobby, we all know that, so it makes sense to use a case that you know will work, without lots of bother making it in the hope everything fits ok.

If someone had done what I am doing a year ago, I would have snapped a case up without a doubt; as there wasn't, I am now doing it for others.

Update:

Used clay, not a great deal I add, to line the inside edge to make it look fairly level around the inside.

No longer need to use the coleslaw lid; that idea is gone now.

Cut out a backing plate from perspex and stuck the perspex circle inside with UHU general purpose glue. I tried the Poly-Weld glue but it is crap; UHU is excellent. The inner circle keeps the back plate from moving about and the backing plate, when magnets applied, keep the backing section secured to the case.

Those magnets are quite powerful and work great with the metal shielding from the PSone case.

How to cut out metal circles safely you ask! How about this for a solution - used a paper punch and then flattened the bits with pliers!

Bore holes into backing plate, half deep, so the 1mm thick magnets can be concealed within the 2mm thick perspex, applied a little UHU glue before putting magnet in place then filled with a little bondo; making sure most of the magnet top is exposed and also the bondo is flat and level.

Postman just arrived - got my rubber contact 8mm tact switches from Hong Kong - 100 in total. Four of these will be used instead of the other tact switches for the shoulder buttons, assuming they fit ok (should be fine) for a better button-pressing experience!

A little animation for you now - the case backing comes off easily enough but is on well enough to hold itself when system is turned upside down.

Next job is to get the on/off button in place. The sub-mini switch (2 way 2 pole) are not easy to stick in place on a case, however if you screw them into a bigger piece of perspex, then there is plenty of surface area to stick the assembly to the case securely. The other reason for screwing the switch down is that the CD mechanism won't lower into the casing with the switch in place, so just unscrew the switch, pop in the CD mechanism and screw the switch back in place. Used some UHU glue again to stick the perspex to the outer case. Good plstic glue!

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:15 pm

Great progress! I like the backing. Thin, but very cool

And chance I could buy 20 of those switches from you?

themadhacker · Post by **themadhacker** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:00 pm

Nice idea with the magnetic CD lid.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Mario wrote:Great progress! I like the backing. Thin, but very cool

And chance I could buy 20 of those switches from you?

Thanks.

Search on e-bay "mini slide switch" there are packs of 20 from someone in Hong Kong.

The rubber button tact switches: "PKG50,Tactile Push Momentary SPST" packed in 50's

Toying with having 6 magnets instead of 4 just to keep it on extra strong.

Need to make a finger groove to lift out a CD from the mechanism, only need to take a few millimeters from the left or right side, the CD cover will conceal it when on.

This system should look stunning when spray painted and decals added.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 2:35 am

Oh, that's clever. (the metal dots, I'm talking about)

Bacteria, we obviously have different opinions about this, so let's just agree to disagree. It's not like I'm saying "Don't sell them, you..." anyway, I'm just saying I have mixed feelings about it.

I think I'll be buying some of these rubber tact switches myself, thanks for the tip!

(sliding switches I got, which were available at the great store www.reichelt.de is, just reminding you all that you can't get in on all the great deals I'm getting there

)

Say, will you reimplement the "lid closed" switch?
Seems like something fairly easy to do with your set up

colosalblack · Post by **colosalblack** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 2:55 am

what color are you planing to paint it? because I like it in white as it is.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:45 am

Kyo wrote:Oh, that's clever. (the metal dots, I'm talking about)

Thanks. I doubted a hole punch would work through metal, but does fine. Made life easier.

Kyo wrote:Bacteria, we obviously have different opinions about this, so let's just agree to disagree.

Indeed, everyone has their own opinions, right or wrong, as is normal in a forum.

Kyo wrote:I think I'll be buying some of these rubber tact switches myself, thanks for the tip!

I became aware of them from someone else's project but a the time none were on e-bay; are now so I got some. They will be useful for the shoulder buttons and also on the N64 project for the C buttons.

Kyo wrote:Say, will you reimplement the "lid closed" switch?
Seems like something fairly easy to do with your set up

Yes, would be easy to do however I don't see the point, it is just making a point of failure as the switch concerned is tiny so any movement on the case backing might disconnect the contact to the CD drive. Better to short the switch, as normal, and have it always on; when you want to change the CD, just turn off the system, change disk and start system again.

Someone who wants to put in the feature, or rig up an alternative momentary-on switch to emulate the CD switch can easily do it if they want.

colosalblack wrote:what color are you planing to paint it? because I like it in white as it is.

Off-white. Porcelain colour, which is very pale. Need to spray paint system anyway due to a reasonable amount of sanding; could have gone white but I wanted a subtle/light off-white.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:10 am

That's a good point. I'd just be concerned about the laser, but you're right. It is just a point of failure.

As for our different opinions, I wouldn't say either is wrong or right in this case, as it's about taste.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:30 am

Kyo - When system is turned off, disk stops rotation and the laser is off anyway.

An opinion is just that, an opinion. If I like green and you like red, it doesn't mean either of us is right or wrong; and so what anyway?

End it there, mate. Good luck in making your case BTW - I am interested to see how yours turns out. Hopefully you will make the case nice and curved and interesting??

On my project - no time to do big work until Wednesday, although I will have a bit of time here and there no doubt in the interim.

I think the four magnets are strong enough, can hold itself in place even when shaking the case base about, which has to be fine!

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:53 am

Yeah, that's what I'm saying.

As for the laser switch, I understand you don't want to add it and you make a very good point why not. I'm kind of a hypochondriac, so I like taking [crazy] precaution measures. I guess I would end up imagining some crazy scenario in which the laser would point to my eye and take away my eyesight

Edit: oh, and as for my snes - I checked all the pins with a multimeter, everything is wired correctly but it seems to not be loading any carts. Right now the batteries are recharging, but I'll look into it later. I also bought the ingredients for a vacuum former today, I'll build it tommorow and post an update in my thread.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:17 pm

Clay is no use, when completely dried it separated from the plastic. The plasticard (styrene) resists Poly-weld glue and also clay; although hot glue sticks really effectively with it.

Had to remove the clay from the CD mechanism and going to use bondo to do the job now.

Got a fair bit of free time tomorrow (Wednesday), for project work.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:39 am

Decent update:

Replaced the clay with bondo - "mighty putty" to be exact, as recommended by lovablechevy a while back. Works well, adheres well to the plastic.

Also cut out a groove so my finger can lift out the CD to replace with another. Didn't need a large groove at all, that one is perfectly big enough for the purpose. The groove will be concealed under the base plate.

Dremeled most of the board through for the power plug (will be used to recharge the system, not to run via mains, this system will just be a portable).

Did the same then for the headphone jack (again, from the PSone screen parts) - the black one is for composite out as well as audio - I just want audio so using the green plug only. Had to trim about 1mm off the plug to counter the thickness of the casing.

Dremeled the unit in two to release the green jack.

Best way to mount the two jacks is to put the male connectors through the other side, then hot glue the female connectors in situ.

Next job is to make a surround for the memory card, so you don't see the inside of the case when the memory card is not present. I just used some mounting board (card) for this; the card was white one side and orange the other, so the white is shown in the inside of the assembly.

Base done:

Two sides and top in place:

View from outside case - looks neat!

Ignore the two plastic shafts in the two plug holes, that is to stop paint getting into the contacts when painting.

The memory card drops into place now, the surround acts as a guide.

Gave case final quick sand, then cleaned surface with a tissue to make sure dust was off; then used a tiny amount of hot glue to stick four pieces of a toilet roll (4 semicircles) to the insides of the two case pieces; this is to elevate them above the paper on the floor when spray painting. When done, they will easily be removed.

Applied two coats of spray paint plastic primer, need to leave to dry, then tonight I can start the spray painting with the colour; will take me through tomorrow (as working tomorrow); so by Friday evening or Saturday morning, I should have a finished set of cases, ready to fill with all the components. I won't have much time over the weekend for project work, but will post pics of the painted case in the interim of course. I have Monday morning for project work, so I expect, with a fair wind, to make speedy process with the project then.

I expect the project could be finished by end of next week, although I don't post final pics until I have compiled a guide, uploaded it onto my site, prepared some of my "kits" and looked at changing the looks of my site - I don't want final pics of my project being posted on other sites before I am ready!

What I can say is that I have decided to make the system two tone colour scheme. I got a black PSone controller at a car boot sale (Â£1), which I bought purely for the fact that it has black shoulder buttons (same size as the official ones) and black joysticks, rubbery type (like the official ones). I figured a pale case with these controls in black, the CD compartment as metallic black and the CD back plate black inside and pale outside: a nice contrast!

What I can do on the project for the rest of the day is to trim the PSone console board and remove parts as needed, get the screen ready, etc...see ya'all later!

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:19 am

The primer spray paint was drying fast, after 2 hours it was dry, so started the main coats. Done three coats so far, very light coats; will put a few more on it yet.

Referred to the pics on my own site to help me with pic of what the pins on the PSone console are in relation to the PSone screen connections.

Ok, something we all know, how to open up a PSone screen; bear in mind though those new to the site will not know, and as I am going for a step-by-step guide, I will cover it in detail:

PSone screen, new; arrows show position of screws which need to be removed.

Pic of screws removed, including the hidden ones - you need to raise the ones on the speakers with a screwdriver to expose them.

Lift up the bottom section.

Use a screwdriver to separate the sections.

To reveal the board. When you undo the four screws in the mobo the screen below will lift off. The speakers can be separated from the case by prying with a screwdriver.

Plugged in the PSone console board to the PSone screen so I could find out which pins connect to what:

I will add any new updates today to this posting (unless anyone posts a comment - feel free to BTW!, in which case I will make a new post of course).

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:29 am

I've always found it weird that you dremel so much in your projects. Not that it hurts, but sometimes I just don't see why... Desoldering can be much easier and cleaner...

I guess it's just your "thing"