Wii remote fix help, please and thank you.

[lwawl]

I have a broken Wii remote and it costs more to send it to nintendo to fix than to buy a new one. So I'm on a mission to fix the remote myself. I have not found any sites with decent remote specs and pics to figure this out. So I figured someone hear at this mod community could help.

Battery acid leaked into my remote and also I do believe this is the remote that hit my wall at a good clip during a Wii bowling accident.

So I took the entire remote apart and use rubbing alcohol to clean the board of the battery acid. The are no loose parts or wires and everything looks good. The remote will not power on or reset to the Wii.

The best I got out of this is there is a set of batteries by the "B" trigger that wire to the board. If these batteries died. My second thought is the battery contacts on that side of the remote do not seem to connect to the board at all. It's all a bit confusing to me.

By the way this remote came with Wii Play. It's an early remote as compared to the one that came with my Wii looks more updated than this remote. Also, I purchased a new Wii remote that looks again updated from the one that came with the Wii.

Any pics or specs on the Wii remote would help identify any potential problems. I just not in the mood to take apart one of my working remotes to compare and diagnose the problem.

Any thoughts or suggestions of how to fix would be great.

Thanks.

[Lorelis-san]

Hmm... Try checking the fuse to see if it still reads 1 ohm. The fuse is to the left and between the 1 and 2 button contacts, it says "F1" to the left of it. If it's not there, check around for a transparent SMD item which says "F1" next to it. Check to see if it still reads 1 ohm (You should have a multimeter... right?). If not, try making a wire bridge across the 2 sides.

Or if you'd rather have pics, there's some pretty good in step 7 of this

[Super Cameraman]

Buy a new one, put the broken one in the new one's packaging, bring it back the next day, say it didn't work, get your money back.

Trust me, it works.

[khaag]

Buy a new one, put the broken one in the new one's packaging, bring it back the next day, say it didn't work, get your money back.

Trust me, it works.

Do it at Walmart. I've done it countless times

[Super Cameraman]

Target too, I think. I've done it there.

Wiimote hit the wall... Looked fine though, so that's all that matters.

Be sure to screw it all back together before your return it. (If you do)

[lwawl]

Yeah, I'll skip on the return. That's the easy way out.

Well, I borrowed a multimeter, so now I need to figure on how to use it correctly to test the Ohms on the F1 resistor (Fuse). A first for everything. Wait till I get to the soldering bit.

What I was thinking is maybe the battery acid that leaked on the board made enough of a connection to short the remote.

[17daysolderthannes]

now, when you say battery acid, what do you mean? The only batteries that I am aware of that have actual battery acid are the lead acid batteries like those used in cars/boats/lawnmowers/etc.

Its hard to say for sure, but chances are its boned. Don't even bother sending it to Nintendo, they would just tell you to buy a new one. Buying another one and "taking it back" would definitely work (however pretty damn dishonest), but I hate Wal-Mart, so that's OK in my book.

[lwawl]

Battery acid as in "AA" batteries. I bought cheap $1 batteries from Shopko and installed them. My bad...

Anyways if I am doing the OHM thing right on the Multimeter. I only getting a 0.5 ohm reading on F1. It fluctuates between 0.4 and 0.6 usually landing on 0.5. I also double check it at the other spot seen in the pictures on the Mod page listed here. I received the same 0.5 ohm reading.

If worse comes to worse. I'll give Ben $10's at the Midwest Gaming convention this year to fix it. That way I could learn from him and get it fixed. Double bonus...