NES cartridge durability

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 9:43 am

I bought a copy of Blaster Master from my local used game store and went about cleaning it as normal. The case was exceptional but the pins seemed a little more corroded than normal. No matter how much I cleaned them with alcohol on a q-tip, the game just wouldn't work. Well, I brought it back to them to take it apart since I don't have a game security bit (yet, on its way, thanks Amazon!). Well, when we opened it up, it appears the inside had gotten wet at some point, causing lots of corrosion and a couple spots that looked burnt as if they had put the wet cartridge into the system and powered it on. In particular was one of the capacitors (that look like resistors, nesdev informed me different) that looked like it had been burnt in addition to looking very corroded. My question is, can the black chips (what are they actually called?) be permanently ruined by water damage or do you think changing the capacitor would fix the game? I've already been assured they would take it back, so it would be up to them to try it, but I would still like to know if anyone has experience bringing back a seriously abused ROM chip back to life. I'm surprised I haven't gotten better responses at NesDev, I guess they are primarily about the software rather than the hardware.

illustriouschin · Post by **illustriouschin** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:25 am

i would definitely just let them mess with it. that game is not worth any potential effort, just get another copy.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 12:17 pm

illustriouschin wrote:i would definitely just let them mess with it. that game is not worth any potential effort, just get another copy.

Well thats the plan anyway, they already said if I bought one online (which I already ordered) that they would let me swap the case since the one I bought from them has an immaculate case. I'm just curious for curiousity's sake what the worst case liveable scenario is for NES chips. Also, if I come across some that are "broken" for a few cents, its worth my while to swap out capacitors and resell them for a couple bucks, especially if its a rare game.

Bibin · Post by **Bibin** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 4:46 pm

You can replace both large black chips, but you'll need some good soldering. Those chips both contain the CHR (graphics) and PRG (code). You need to split a NES rom into both, then burn both onto the chips. Then, replace at will.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:14 pm

what are the smaller black chips? mappers? Also, if the black chips need replacing, the cartridge will probably just go into the trash (rom board anyway, the case is in good shape). I'm just talking about the resistor or capacitor (depending on which it is, I have a pending response from nesdev about that, I don't think its a capacitor).

arfink · Post by **arfink** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:54 pm

Here is my suggestion. Find a nice (cheap, preferably) donor cart which has the same mapper. If you don't know what a mapper is for NES games look it up on Google. Then, swap the PRG and CHR chips. Fairly straight-forward. I've done it myself a few times. I also have some experience with making my own PRG and CHR chips for custom (homebrew) games. If you need some help, feel free to ask.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:17 pm

arfink wrote:Here is my suggestion. Find a nice (cheap, preferably) donor cart which has the same mapper. If you don't know what a mapper is for NES games look it up on Google. Then, swap the PRG and CHR chips. Fairly straight-forward. I've done it myself a few times. I also have some experience with making my own PRG and CHR chips for custom (homebrew) games. If you need some help, feel free to ask.

Well, I'm not even sure the mapper is burnt out though (btw I do know about all that stuff, I've looked around on nesdev a little bit), it may just be the capacitor. I'll let them try it though, no sense doing it myself when a new copy is on the way.

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:24 am

Try this.

Soak the board in +90% rubbing alcohol for about 12 hours. Then take a toothbrush and scrub all the corrosion off. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. Try playing the game.

Thats the basic method of getting once wet electronics working again.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:42 am

Rekarp wrote:Try this.

Soak the board in +90% rubbing alcohol for about 12 hours. Then take a toothbrush and scrub all the corrosion off. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. Try playing the game.

Thats the basic method of getting once wet electronics working again.

seriously? there's nothing that will be damaged by soaking in alcohol for that long?

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:44 am

17daysolderthannes wrote:
Rekarp wrote:Try this.

Soak the board in +90% rubbing alcohol for about 12 hours. Then take a toothbrush and scrub all the corrosion off. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. Try playing the game.

Thats the basic method of getting once wet electronics working again.
seriously? there's nothing that will be damaged by soaking in alcohol for that long?

nope. I recovered a Socket A motherboard that had a gallon of water dumped on it while running using that exact method.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:51 pm

wow, these things are more durable than I thought!

Edutainment · Post by **Edutainment** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:23 pm

Rekarp wrote:
17daysolderthannes wrote:
Rekarp wrote:Try this.

Soak the board in +90% rubbing alcohol for about 12 hours. Then take a toothbrush and scrub all the corrosion off. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. Try playing the game.

Thats the basic method of getting once wet electronics working again.
seriously? there's nothing that will be damaged by soaking in alcohol for that long?
nope. I recovered a Socket A motherboard that had a gallon of water dumped on it while running using that exact method.

Forealz?

That's pretty rad.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:30 am

Rekarp wrote:
17daysolderthannes wrote:
Rekarp wrote:Try this.

Soak the board in +90% rubbing alcohol for about 12 hours. Then take a toothbrush and scrub all the corrosion off. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. Try playing the game.

Thats the basic method of getting once wet electronics working again.
seriously? there's nothing that will be damaged by soaking in alcohol for that long?
nope. I recovered a Socket A motherboard that had a gallon of water dumped on it while running using that exact method.

so what exactly is a socket A motherboard? My sister spilled some cranberry juice and, at the time being, has rendered her Apple Powerbook useless. A new one is already on the way but if I get her old one working, thats a free powerbook for me. Do you think this method has a chance? if so, are there certain things that should NOT be submerged in the alcohol? I would imagine the battery would be a no-no but what else? thanks.

illustriouschin · Post by **illustriouschin** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:33 pm

probably dont submerge the powersupply or the processor, only the motherboard on its own, because the powersupply has capacitors in there that will shock the hell out of you even when unplugged and there are microscopic. self-transforming machine elves that live inside there and you dont want to see them when they get drunk, oh no.

17daysolderthannes · Post by **17daysolderthannes** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:51 pm

oh yeah, I was planning on leaving out the power supply, but if I can't put the processor, chances are its doomed because I'm pretty sure the juice got all over everything. Its a shame, it was only like 1 1/2 years old, hell, it was better than the computer I'm using right now to type this

.