Component damaged, need to know its value for replacement
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Component damaged, need to know its value for replacement
Hey hey, I know, I havent been on the forums for a long time. No worries, Im still arround. No time to fester on the forums listening to the same 6 questions over and over. Between life and my project over at BSoDtv.org i havent had much time for myself.
Anyways, I hooked up my verge breand PSone screen to find out that it wasnt working. Apparently the cap' near the 7V regulator is burnt out. At least I think its a cap'. The component is labeled CP20 and its to the right of the 7.5V Voltage Regulator. Can someone verify it is a capactor and its value. If its NOT a cap' tell me what it is and its value so I can replace it
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Anyways, I hooked up my verge breand PSone screen to find out that it wasnt working. Apparently the cap' near the 7V regulator is burnt out. At least I think its a cap'. The component is labeled CP20 and its to the right of the 7.5V Voltage Regulator. Can someone verify it is a capactor and its value. If its NOT a cap' tell me what it is and its value so I can replace it
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Electric Rain
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That's a 0.00001uF cap. And there's no 7V or 7.5V reg. 
Edit: Oh, one important thing to note: You see that white strip on it? That means its electrolytic, and it's polarity sensitive. Make sure you solder the replacement cap in the same position, or it might explode (really...).
Edit 2: Wait... something isn't right here... there are no 0.00001uF electrolytic caps...
Hang on... lemme figure this out...
Edit 3: Okay, I'm not sure now... it just says "100" on it... following standard capacitor codes, that means it's 0.00001uF. But in this case, I think it might mean it's 100uF. Can anyone else advise?
Edit 4: Hmm... it might be a tantalum cap.
Sorry, wish I could help you more, but I'm stumped...
Edit: Oh, one important thing to note: You see that white strip on it? That means its electrolytic, and it's polarity sensitive. Make sure you solder the replacement cap in the same position, or it might explode (really...).
Edit 2: Wait... something isn't right here... there are no 0.00001uF electrolytic caps...
Edit 3: Okay, I'm not sure now... it just says "100" on it... following standard capacitor codes, that means it's 0.00001uF. But in this case, I think it might mean it's 100uF. Can anyone else advise?
Edit 4: Hmm... it might be a tantalum cap.

@Electric Rain
Well you said yours says just 100 but it is polarized? That just ain't adding up lol.
You are right in saying it is polarized. However, what confuses me is that 100 rating, though on any polarized capacitor it is always greater than 1uF, therefore it most likely is 100uF. Don't quote me on this, but a 10v 100uF cap should do the job for you. As well, if you do still get confused with the polarity, the longer end will always be the positive side of the cap. Your PCB should indicate which pole is to be positive.
Tantalum capacitors are a bit different. They offer high capacitance in small packages. This is not the case here.
From experience though, most electrolytic caps say their exact value on the casing with the prefix afterwards. I guess it all depends in this case on what the cap does. May just be a drain capacitor. Either way, I see no damage coming from trying a capacitor of 100uF. You could I suppose put in a 100nF (0.1uF) cap although it may just pop right off the bat.
Any other advice people?
Well you said yours says just 100 but it is polarized? That just ain't adding up lol.
You are right in saying it is polarized. However, what confuses me is that 100 rating, though on any polarized capacitor it is always greater than 1uF, therefore it most likely is 100uF. Don't quote me on this, but a 10v 100uF cap should do the job for you. As well, if you do still get confused with the polarity, the longer end will always be the positive side of the cap. Your PCB should indicate which pole is to be positive.
Tantalum capacitors are a bit different. They offer high capacitance in small packages. This is not the case here.
From experience though, most electrolytic caps say their exact value on the casing with the prefix afterwards. I guess it all depends in this case on what the cap does. May just be a drain capacitor. Either way, I see no damage coming from trying a capacitor of 100uF. You could I suppose put in a 100nF (0.1uF) cap although it may just pop right off the bat.
Any other advice people?
You say it can't be done. I'll damn well show you it can...
Just may not be cheap. Or practical.

Just may not be cheap. Or practical.

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Electric Rain
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Yeah, i realized my mistake with the regulators after i posted, didnt care to fix it. Ive got so many open projects right now my head is swarming with datasheets, pinouts, parts, components, hookups, and signal types. Its a tad overwhleming. Right now I have 27 open and active projects...
I got the component ID'd and what not. Thanks for the update. Im well experienced in electronics (over 15 years) so i know just what needs to be done. Again, thanks for the help.
I got the component ID'd and what not. Thanks for the update. Im well experienced in electronics (over 15 years) so i know just what needs to be done. Again, thanks for the help.
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Electric Rain
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you mean again? That is the reason i took a hiatus from benheck... was sick of the same commonly covered questions over and over.
www.bsodtv.org - Hacking is NOT a crime!
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Electric Rain
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- Posts: 1911
- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:39 pm
- PSN Username: Denki_no_Ame
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Maybe we could get more people to read them if we banned those that asked questions that are answered in the stickies.Electric Rain wrote:Heh, well... stickies and the search function are supposed to take care of that... >.>
Banning for questions that can be answered by a search would be too far, its hard to find anything with it.

