FREE DC-DC CONVERTERS!!!
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hm. well its obvious that the burst of power needed for a big bass hit is what is causing this. and the way to solve that is usually capacitors. perhaps dedicating a nice juicy one right near the audio amp... on my brothers screen there is space for capacitors that was never used. he fixed his problems by putting some there (those cheap bastards... always cutting corners...)
and, just as an experiement (this is what i would do), maybe see what happens if you locate like 5mF (ten 470uF's in paralell... ok this is a bit excessive) of capacitance near the dc-dc.
and, just as an experiement (this is what i would do), maybe see what happens if you locate like 5mF (ten 470uF's in paralell... ok this is a bit excessive) of capacitance near the dc-dc.

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Triton
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i have a question, would a 47uf EC cap work to clean up the signal? i agree on stickiness too btw
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blackbox_dev
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The capacitors reduce the amount of fluctuation of the input and output voltages, so as to keep them steady. For example, if your input voltage dips or is cut off for a brief moment for some reason, then the input capacitor will discharge to keep the voltage to the input roughly the same, so as to not have the regulator/convertor shut off during that time.
A 100uF electrolytic capacitor on the output side is what the spec sheet calls for. The input capacitor is optional, so you only need the one for the output.
The short pin is the negative side. Although this cap is labeled with the bars and arrows to signify the negative side, some of them might not be, so that's a good thing to remember.
The short pin is the negative side. Although this cap is labeled with the bars and arrows to signify the negative side, some of them might not be, so that's a good thing to remember.
I think you misunderstood what I meant.
The short pin is the negative side. It always is. If the cap is labeled with the bars to signify the negative side, then it's easy to determine which pin is negative. But some devices might not be so explicitly labeled (such as LEDs), to let you know which pin is which. In those cases, it's good to remember that the short pin is negative.
I hope I cleared that up.
The short pin is the negative side. It always is. If the cap is labeled with the bars to signify the negative side, then it's easy to determine which pin is negative. But some devices might not be so explicitly labeled (such as LEDs), to let you know which pin is which. In those cases, it's good to remember that the short pin is negative.
I hope I cleared that up.




