FREE DC-DC CONVERTERS!!!

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
timmeh87
Senior Member
Posts: 3047
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:19 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by timmeh87 »

gforce- sounds exactly like something a nice, big capcitor would fix.

also, if you are using a digital multimeter, it averages over 1 or 2 seconds, it wont pick up spikes like that.
Image

"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"
G-force
Moderator
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 1:43 pm
Location: Sweet home Indiana
Contact:

Post by G-force »

Thanks. So I should use a bigger electrolytic or a bigger ceramic cap? The ceramic seemed to make no difference, so I guess I'll try a bigger electrolytic. I have a 470 uf, that's pretty big, so I'll give it a shot.

EDIT: Nope, no difference at all with a bigger cap. Arg...
timmeh87
Senior Member
Posts: 3047
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:19 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by timmeh87 »

hm. well its obvious that the burst of power needed for a big bass hit is what is causing this. and the way to solve that is usually capacitors. perhaps dedicating a nice juicy one right near the audio amp... on my brothers screen there is space for capacitors that was never used. he fixed his problems by putting some there (those cheap bastards... always cutting corners...)

and, just as an experiement (this is what i would do), maybe see what happens if you locate like 5mF (ten 470uF's in paralell... ok this is a bit excessive) of capacitance near the dc-dc.
Image

"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"
Neildo_64
Portablizer
Posts: 852
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Iowa

Post by Neildo_64 »

I think this topic should be stickyfied so it doesnt get lost like some of the other useful posts. As long as people dont take advantage of the "FREE" part. I'd say If you need one for a portable, or maybe two, go for it, but dont try to order 30 just because they're free samples.
Triton
Moderator
Posts: 7397
Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 12:33 pm
360 GamerTag: triton199
Steam ID: triton199
Location: Iowa
Contact:

Post by Triton »

i have a question, would a 47uf EC cap work to clean up the signal? i agree on stickiness too btw
blackbox_dev
Senior Member
Posts: 1906
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 5:19 pm
Location: Formerly known as iam7805

Post by blackbox_dev »

Yeah, why isn't this a sticky?
I'd imagine right now you wish you were a cuttlefish...
daguuy
Portablizer
Posts: 3666
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2005 7:09 pm
Location: missoura

Post by daguuy »

there's a link to it in the sticky
ImageImage
Skyone
Moderator
Posts: 6390
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location: it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone »

Question!

What'll happen if I DON'T use any caps with my regulator?
marshallh
Moderator
Posts: 2986
Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:17 pm
360 GamerTag: marshallh
Location: here and there
Contact:

Post by marshallh »

Well, for me, it makes absolutely no difference. I still get video interference. However, I'm sure it does make a difference somewhere.
Image
Skyone
Moderator
Posts: 6390
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location: it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone »

Oh, so the reason that the caps should be there is because it'll screw up the video?
JAY
Posts: 132
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:06 pm

Post by JAY »

The capacitors reduce the amount of fluctuation of the input and output voltages, so as to keep them steady. For example, if your input voltage dips or is cut off for a brief moment for some reason, then the input capacitor will discharge to keep the voltage to the input roughly the same, so as to not have the regulator/convertor shut off during that time.
Skyone
Moderator
Posts: 6390
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location: it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone »

Ok thanks! For the cap(s);

Is it ok if I only use one cap?

Can it be 100uF and electrolytic?

Image

The pin next to the strip of the lighter blue, arrows pointing to it, and boxes is NEGATIVE, right?
JAY
Posts: 132
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:06 pm

Post by JAY »

A 100uF electrolytic capacitor on the output side is what the spec sheet calls for. The input capacitor is optional, so you only need the one for the output.

The short pin is the negative side. Although this cap is labeled with the bars and arrows to signify the negative side, some of them might not be, so that's a good thing to remember.
Skyone
Moderator
Posts: 6390
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location: it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone »

Oh, well I just soldered the 100uF to the Regulator assuming that the strip/arrow side was negative.

It gives me a steady 3.3v!

If I reversed the polarity, would it not give me 3.3v? Just to be safe.
JAY
Posts: 132
Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:06 pm

Post by JAY »

I think you misunderstood what I meant.

The short pin is the negative side. It always is. If the cap is labeled with the bars to signify the negative side, then it's easy to determine which pin is negative. But some devices might not be so explicitly labeled (such as LEDs), to let you know which pin is which. In those cases, it's good to remember that the short pin is negative.

I hope I cleared that up.
Post Reply