worklog: ZN-64!!!(put on hold due to lack of money)

[metalcookie]

i might have once. i'm not sure, though. i still have one more unused pth08000 regulator, though.
should i try using that one?

[metalcookie]

everything is working correctly.
i still get 3.264 volts when it isn't hooked up to the the n64, but when it is it drops.

[64M320N3]

It'll do that.
Actually, many electronics do that, especially batteries.
This is because when the object is by itself it isn't actually outputting anything, but when it is under load, the voltage will drop. I'm not quite sure how you'd fix this, though, as it might be your regulator.

[metalcookie]

i've have the same problem with 2 different ti pth08000 regulators. i think i might buy a whole new n64, because i really need a test board, and the cartridge slot relocation i did was sloppy. it does work perfectly,though.
i'm trying to troubleshoot this board, but so far, there is nothing wrong with it. it still works with the original power supply.
there isn't a damn thing wrong with the n64, it's the power supply i'm having trouble with. i am going to order a pth08080 regulator and a pt78ht233 regulator, and test all of them. if i get the same problem, then i'll find a battery with enough amps

[64M320N3]

if i get the same problem, then i'll find a battery with enough amps

Wait, what? Your battery doesn't have enough amps to begin with? I think that may be the source of your problem.

[metalcookie]

oops, sorry. i put that the wrong way.
if the new regulators don't work, then i'll get a battery with higher amps.
the charger i'm using is rated at 9 volts dc 2.22a

[metalcookie]

update
i've discovered 3 GREAT THINGS
for one, i discovered my power problem - the capacitor is too small. i bought a 35 volt capacitor, and used it instead of the 25 volt one, and the voltage is at 2.875 instead of 2.756. i just need a bigger capacitor. i will still try it with the pth08080's i'm getting, though
second, my n64 board is virtually IMPOSSIBLE to fry. why, i don't know,but when i was testing the lines on the n64 to see what voltage it was getting, i accidentally touched the 3.3 volt line and the 12 volt line with the test leads on my multimeter, and THE N64 WORKED!! i got it to run on batteries by connecting the 3.3 volt line and the 12 line. i successfully got the n64 to barely run on batteries.
then i saw smoke.
but it wasn't the n64. the wires on my power circuit were burning up, and blistered my skin!
out of those circumstances it should have fried the board, hell it should of smoked the board!, but it didn't and i don't know why.
NOTE:this was purely accidental, so if your n64 isn't working on batteries, i DO NOT recommend doing this.
i put the original power supply on the n64 just to make sure i didn't fry it, and it worked.if someone can give me an explanation as to why the board didn't fry, i'd like to hear it.
well, i guess that was only 2 discoveries, but i did do something else.
i started working on my third - party controller

i rewired the analog stick and the z button, and i used some parts from an old broken xbox controller for the d-pad
here's a comparison of the buttons i'm using for my portable

the top row it n64 buttons, and the bottom row are xbox buttons i am going to use
the xbox analog stick fits perfectly over the n64 analog stick, and i like the analog stick on my n64 controller, so i'm just going to use the n64 analog stick with the xbox analog stick top.
i've almost got this power crisis figured out, and with the battery i ordered off ebay(7.4 volt 6600mAh, just 20 dollars! but no protection ciruit) i think this power crisis is about to be fixed.
still, an explanation as to why i didn't fry the board would be very helpful

[64M320N3]

Oh Christ!
I'd get new wires, dude!
How the hell did you set them aflame? Crappy soldering, a short, or what?
Also, you may just be lucky, or your n64 is a pretty cool model... what year and serial number is it?

[metalcookie]

the reason the wires got hot was because i connected the 3.3 and 12 volt lines together. when i removed the test leads the wires cooled down. i check every wire i solder, and if i suspect bridging, i desolder and then resolder again.


my model is 804-12

[metalcookie]

it is an American model

[metalcookie]

i think the year is 1997

it was a black one.

[64M320N3]

You could have posted that all in one post.
Also, if you are not sure about the year it was made, it's on the board.

[metalcookie]

You could have posted that all in one post.

yah, but when i read your post, i didn't read it all at one time, and posted again and again because i was lazy

i am still a bit worried about the power issue, though. i'm not sure if getting a larger capacitor would help much, but just a ten volt upgrade did raise the voltage by about .225 volts.

[metalcookie]

-update-
i've finished prepping the n64 controller board for the rubber tact switches!

soldering those wires to the pcb was one hell of a nightmare without flux. they constantly became unsolered and popped off, and would refuse to stick, but i managed to solder all of the wires on there, securely.
as you can see, i have grouped all of the wires together with corresponding buttons. one of the wires it the button contact going the the chip, and the other wire is soldered to various ground points on the board. to register a button press, i simply press the wires together

here you can see the salvaged xbox controller parts. just the d - pad and the analog stick
still waiting for my 08080 regulators
comments?

[eurddrue]

I know what you mean about virtually impossible to fry n64s. I for sure put 6.23v into my n64 3.3v line, and it still works. And there is an edit button