Radiator Making

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timmeh87
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Post by timmeh87 »

well, if you want to just buy yourself a radiator, they already have real, factory made ones out there.

check into the PC watercooling scene. you can buy complete kits with pump, hose, radiator, and waterblocks.

of course, its not always the cheapest solution.

check ebay.
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BroKilla93
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Post by BroKilla93 »

timmeh87 wrote:well, if you want to just buy yourself a radiator, they already have real, factory made ones out there.

check into the PC watercooling scene. you can buy complete kits with pump, hose, radiator, and waterblocks.

of course, its not always the cheapest solution.

check ebay.
I have but as Ben said there is nothing small out there and also his worked great from what i here i just need a tiny bit smaller one. If you know of a small one though tell me if its under 150 bucks. Or just pls explain to me how it works again...
timmeh87
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Post by timmeh87 »

ok. i guess i can try to explain this again, quick and easy:

you have your cpu core that is producing more heat than it can dissipate at a reasonable temperature. if the heat is not removed actively, the core temperature will continue rising far beyond its design. to maintain a lower temperature, we must move the heat away from it with some sort of energy transfer system.

so theres 3 basic ways for energy to move. radiation, convection, and conduction. sparing you the long explanation, the conclusion is that the easiest way to move heat from the core to the air is through conduction - that is, direct physical contact between two materials through which heat energy may pass.

in a basic watercooling system, the three main elements of the heat transfer system are the water block, the coolant, and the radiator. the water block is physically connected to the core, the coolant is physically connected to the the water block as well as the radiator, and the radiator is physically connected to the surrounding air.

in summary, the heat from your cpu core has to travel through the following interfaces

CPU > waterblock > coolant > radiator > air

so making an efficient (read: working) watercooling system means making the heat transfer across these 4 interfaces as efficient as possible.

there are two main factors that will affect heat transfer across an interface, assuming all other factors are equal: the percent of the materials that is actually in direct contact (on a MICROscopic level) and the surface area.

the first one means that the cpu > waterblock interface must be carefully designed. microscopic irregularities in both the cpu and the surface of your waterblock cause them to not make full contact with each other, leaving air pockets that conduct heat very poorly. for this purpose it is recommended that you use some sort of thermal grease to fill the gaps. fortunately for us, the other 3 interfaces are between a solid and a fluid. since a fluid takes the shape of its container, we will assume that perfect contact is being made (ie no air gaps)

since we are already making perfect contact, the only other way to increase heat transfer is to increase the surface area. it should be pretty obvious to everyone reading as to why.

so now we have 3 interfaces left, and we must maximise the surface area of each one

waterblock > coolant

waterblocks are usually designed with a round-about path through them for the coolant, rather than just being a hollow cube. we are trying to maximize the surface area of waterblock that is in contact with the coolant. some people also put fins inside their waterblock, much resembling an air-cooled heatsink (but with water running over it instead. same theory though)

coolant > radiator

since the coolant is now running though a pipe, the only way to increase surface area is to increase the length of pipe. this is done by looping the pipe tightly back on itself 5 - 10 times or so.

radiator > air

this last interface is the one that most affects the design of your radiator. the simplest radiator stops at the last paragraph, with a loop of pipe. the radiator then has the same amount surface area in contact with both the coolant and the air, and the heat can escape. however, air is a terrible conductor of heat, and a radiator made out of a length of pipe is a terrible
radiator. for this reason, it is necessary to increase the surface area a very large amount.

this is done with the use of fins, in contact with the pipe. the fins are usually soldered or welded, or at least stamped onto the pipe really good, so that we can consider the pipe and the fins to be the same unit, with no additional interfaces to worry about.



the most popular design that follows from this analysis is the one that gannon presented earlier. your have a number of short parallel pipes that are all connected at the ends to make one loop. sheets of copper or aluminum are then stacked onto the pipes with an air gap between them.



this article walks you through building a complete watercooling system with a radiator that has NO fins:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1085/

this one is about making a radiator in roughly the same was as gannons, but circular instead of square
http://www.overclockers.com/tips128/

this one is a good design to consider too
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=105157

many more articles where that came from. google is your friend.
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BroKilla93
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Post by BroKilla93 »

Thank Microsoft for you and Gannon, you saved my project. What ever i can do to help you. I got it after i get my first 360 laptop done i will make one for both of you for reduced labor cost. Thank you, you saved me.
BroKilla93
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Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by BroKilla93 »

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1085/radiator.jpg

Is that with fins a good radiator (but with metal aluminum endings kinda like Ben's for his Laptop.) Also my plan is like this. Have the pump run 2 lines one only for the CPU and one For the GPU and possibly RAM or another component. Then they join together for the radiator. My reasoning for that is so no line gets too hot by the time they reach another component. Im about to get the parts as we speak.
BroKilla93
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by BroKilla93 »

BroKilla93 wrote:http://www.overclockers.com/tips1085/radiator.jpg

Is that with fins a good radiator (but with metal aluminum endings kinda like Ben's for his Laptop.) Also my plan is like this. Have the pump run 2 lines one only for the CPU and one For the GPU and possibly RAM or another component. Then they join together for the radiator. My reasoning for that is so no line gets too hot by the time they reach another component. Im about to get the parts as we speak.
Never mind now with this insight you have given me im going to make one just like Ben's and also tell me if i can do a 360 or Wii or PS2 (slim) laptop for you.

Edit: I plan to use this kit for the water blocks extra http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=327
BroKilla93
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Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by BroKilla93 »

Sorry new problem now, I was looking at the Coolance website and had a quick question how would i best hook this up for testing. And how should i hook it up for the final product.
I plan to get the following (plus some good ol' pipe)
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=327
maybe this
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=265
this
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=296
maybe
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=324

Can someone find a better and cheaper arrangement for me, or just see what Ben used.
timmeh87
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:19 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by timmeh87 »

any properly constructed piece of metal pipe with fins is a 'good' radiator, its up to you to decide how big it needs to be and what shape it needs to be.

dont worry about making anyone else laptops until you are done your own. i think you may find that one is enough (besides, i could never afford one. unless you mean... you''ll give me one for free :D)

as for those parts... :O. big spender. the waterblocks are necessary; too much work to make yourself. as for the pump/reservoir... it looks kinda big. as i recall, ben had to search long and hard to find a pump that was small enough to fit inside his laptop. perhaps you could just email him with your questions (might take several tries, hes busy).

the pump controller looks kinda over-the-top. realistically you wont need to be changing your pump speed in-game, you could save yourself some coin and space by just putting an appropriate resistor in there (or undervolting the pump) to semi-permanently set the speed
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BroKilla93
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Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by BroKilla93 »

Cristmis Shoping List

http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=334

2 of these
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_in ... cts_id=334
and a custom made Reservoir (next for the case)
and of course some tubing
timmeh87
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Posts: 3047
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:19 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by timmeh87 »

same link twice?

nice looking pump though. it even has a tach lead. maybe you could whip up a microcontroller to read it off. and. i dunno what then. haha.
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BroKilla93
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Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by BroKilla93 »

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