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Ideally you'd use a high precision resistor *like this* to give exactly 3.3V.

Of course you're right to check the numbers for yourself, it's because not everyone does that misinformation gets spread around.

I just wanted to point out you'd get a longer battery life running the dc from 7.4V, I think we just got our wires crossed a bit.

I made a guide for a low battery indicator, it can be made with only a few components and the mk2 version will work for any battery type, you might find it useful.
http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php ... 71#p376071

never tested the. Dreamcast at 7.4v. But as I found out with the Gqmecube the watts were the same at all voltages. Wouldn't suprise me to find the Dreamcast is the same which would make using lower voltage a moot point.
Also doesn't more current equal more heat? I couldn't have been more clear in ...

I don't agree that keeping things simple is better, if people learned the difference between current and power no-one would think a 37Wh battery(7.4*5) had a higher capacity than a 74Wh battery(14.8*5).

However the point made earlier was about the dreamcast, you can power it from 12V with a pico ...

A system running on less voltage consumes more power.
Current is measured in Amps, Power in Watts, current != power. The gamecube is a bit of an exception because it uses a complex switching reg, but your own numbers show it uses the same power at 7.4V as at 12V (~1% difference).

For consoles ...

yeah, according to bacteria(portablizer(made a bunch of portables so far) who is finishing his dcp up, will be done soon) and daftmike, you can run it off 7.4v and will somehow use LESS power !(uses less current at 7.4v than you think it would)

No that is not correct. 7.4v will ALWAYS draw more ...

Unfortunately even if you could stack el sheets together you would be wasting your time.

You might have missed my point when I said that only about 5% of the light produced by the backlight will make it out the front to light the screen.

A 120cd/m^2 backlight will mean a 6cd/m^2 screen brightness.

Jason wrote:I'm thinking of getting some surface mount LEDs and mounting them to a strip of PC board

That's probably the best way of doing it, I did something like that in this thread.

I looked into this a while ago and EL panels are not suitable for a psone screen backlight. I couldn't find reliable info on power consumption but it didn't matter as they are an order of magnitude too dim to be useful here.

That EL panel has 120cd/m^2, in a colour tft screen about 4-5% of that ...

Here is a small circuit I made for a low battery indicator. I posted it on the other site and ended up making a guide of sorts, hopefully some of you guys find it useful.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/6610/21671401.jpg

The green led(led1) is the power indicator, it is on as long as the circuit ...

Since we only disagree on three pins it must just be down to the differences between hardware revisions.

As it turns out i don't have a board younger than a NUS-CPU-03 so I can't comment on your changes other than to say that my original pinout is correct at least for the NTSC CPU-03 and PAL CPU(P ...

Interesting, are you sure your soldering is accurate? have you got it working using a different pinout?

I only say this because i am confident my pinout is 100% correct and that it will work for all n64s.

The audio signals coming from the cart slot will likely need to be fed into a pre-amp of some kind before output, there is one on the board, chip U2 'AMP-NUS'
I may have to trim this part of the board in my portable however, so i made my own amp and took the signals straight from the cart slot ...

I made a rough pinout of the cart slot in this post