Khaag's SNESp Progress Thread (56k)

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

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grahf
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Post by grahf »

I would argue and say that RGB is ALWAYS worth the trouble, but thats my opinion. Besides that, you need to keep the extra power board to get composite out of an FC Twin anyways so its no extra work.
khaag
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Post by khaag »

CronoTriggerfan wrote:Also, I wouldn't screw with RGB. As grahf stated, you have to do a lot of screwing with it, as well as some surface-mount soldering and having to cram in an audio amp circuit into that already tiny case. And for what? A bit more vibrant colors and some sharper lines? Sure, that's great and all if you've got your SNES hooked up to, say, a 50 inch HDTV, but for a 5 inch PSOne screen, composite looks just fine in my opinion. The one time I did try wiring up a SNES mini with RGB, I ended up going back to composite with the next one, simply because it's not worth the trouble. Just my two cents! :P

CTFan
That's the problem. The SNES portion of the FC Twin only outputs RGB. In order to get composite, it needs the power board intact. Personally I couldn't care less about the difference between RGB and Composite on a 5 Inch screen (mind you 320x240 (the psone screen isn't actually 640x480) res to boot). I guess I'll just have to chop the power board a screw amount and cram it into the case. I'm not going to bother trying to figure out resistor values and such to get it to work with out it.
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Hedge
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Post by Hedge »

Kevin got some problem with my Futur Snes P.... :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
khaag
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Post by khaag »

Don't worry Hedge, it's a minor problem. It's easy to fix now that I know what the problem is ;)
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grahf
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Post by grahf »

I dont know if I posted this already, but i'm also working on a new FC Twin portable right now. Going to cram it into a polycase 6"x4"x1" case. This one will be made for Super Famicom size carts, since i'm in Japan right now anyway. SFC carts are only about 4"x5"x3/4", so i'm hoping to make the thing tiny.

Looking forward to seeing this new one of yours finished.
khaag
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Post by khaag »

NEW UPDATE :D

I spent a good hours working on this thing today... see the fruits of my labors at the site:

http://kevinhaag.ca/2008/02/12/snesp-su ... le-part-5/

Theres even a video! Yay videos!

EDIT: If any of you wanna help a brother out, feel free to click those little Bookmark it buttons on the side of the page ;)
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Life of Brian
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Post by Life of Brian »

Awesome!
dragonhead wrote:sweet. ive spent a third of my life on benheck!
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Very good, coming on nicely.
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khaag
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Post by khaag »

I do have one problem with it however. The audio is VERY low power. Even on full volume, its very quiet. Anyone know why this is so? (Grahf, I'm looking at you ;) ) I'm using the audio circuit graph mentioned in his thread about removing the NES board (4 .1uf 104 caps, and 4 33k ohm resistors)
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khaag
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Post by khaag »

Does anyone know of a separate audio amp that I could use to increase the volume coming off the L and R audio signals? For some reason as is, there is hardly any volume...
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

How about one of those battery operated amps designed for MP3 players; not great volume but should give enough for what you need.
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grahf
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Post by grahf »

There was an opamp on the original power board, but it looks as if you cut it off already. If you still have it, just put it on its own daughter board. The datasheet is linked to in my pinout thread.

Also, you can make that power board Much smaller, since you already cut the audio amp off. For example, those two caps on the left side are not needed. You can trim 5mm off of the board there. Also, most of the stuff to the right side of the cxa1645 is not used either. Check the datasheet to double check, but only keep the stuff the cxa1645 requires. http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/cxa1645.pdf
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Post by khaag »

Okay, I'm confused here... what exactly is this op amp? The part where I cut it off, there wasn't anything there... just open ground space...
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grahf
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Post by grahf »

khaag wrote:Okay, I'm confused here... what exactly is this op amp? The part where I cut it off, there wasn't anything there... just open ground space...
I just looked at your pics, and your FC Twin has a different revision PCB than mine. Both of the ones i've had (including my new one with YOBO sticker) have the same PCB. It has an empty space on it for a D411 region lockout IC. Yours has no space for that, and the chips are arranged slightly different. Also, yours has one extra chip on the bottom right. Whats the code on that little tiny 4~ pin chip in the bottom right of this pic: http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1340/dscn0336av2.jpg

You cant see it, but directly under the bottom right corner of the heatsink in this pic: http://files.myopera.com/grahf/albums/1 ... single.jpg is an 8-pin opamp. Its a simple voltage amp, that boosts the audio up to line level. Since yours doesnt have this, the 4->2 mixing stage might require different value resistors/caps. Check your NES board and verify that they are the same.

Worst case scenario, you can just add your own opamp.
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Post by khaag »

That little chip on the bottom right is 8 pins and it says 358 515 on it.

What would I have to go about doing to add in my own opamp?
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