The inside is reflective.
Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS
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jjhammerstein
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I hate the non-uniformity too.bacteria wrote:Yes, interested to see the differences. Silver mylar - (link?) - not familir with it.
I don't like the screen to be bright in the corners and sides and dim in the middle - I like it uniform; if you have made it so, interested to know more!
My *out-of-the-box-new* PSone screen just arrived, and I want to tear it apart RIGHT.
Uniformity please!
GET FREE WOW GOLD SEX VISIT MODRETRO
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palmertech
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It is very uniform, if you look closely, the corners are a WEE bit brighter, but the PSone LCD stock light is also brighter on one side than the other. 
The rest of the LCD is nice, clear, and bright, so it is hardly noticeable; Believe me, I am a screen freak, I would not do it if it was not even. 
I will not be able to get pics tomorrow, but in a day or two should be manageable.
The rest of the LCD is nice, clear, and bright, so it is hardly noticeable; Believe me, I am a screen freak, I would not do it if it was not even. I will not be able to get pics tomorrow, but in a day or two should be manageable.
Excellent
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bacteria
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ARRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH
NiHM cells are the bane of my portablizing life! AARRRGGGHHHHH
I thought, "ok, let's check this board works fine; so hooked it up to batteries and composite game system, just to make sure I had no shorts anywhere. System worked fine; screen was getting about 7.5v from six NiMH cells, when the screen booted the image was black and white but went to colour after a couple of seconds - "ok I thought, strange but ok", but after several seconds the screen started to get bright, then white, then off. I knew it wasn't the video signal as the game system was working when I moved the joystick. I then proceeded to removing all the wires I took ages to solder before; system did same thing. "Must have fried a resistor or something - rats" - so opened up a new PSone screen, didn't sand any of the mobo down but did remove the plugs and solder to the contacts directly - same result. Changed the batteries for a more recently charged set, 7.9v - worked fine. Obviously the last set had the voltage but not amperage, hence the screen was getting its 5v to power the light, but the board was being starved!
I am now back with a clean board, which I sanded down to see how far I needed to to fit in the case but no wires attached - so I need to start again! At least it hopefully means I haven't damaged the old board hopefully! Ok, back to work. This time I will get the screen working via composite and audio only then worry about the RGB - gives me a chance to make a better guide....
NiHM cells are the bane of my portablizing life! AARRRGGGHHHHH
I thought, "ok, let's check this board works fine; so hooked it up to batteries and composite game system, just to make sure I had no shorts anywhere. System worked fine; screen was getting about 7.5v from six NiMH cells, when the screen booted the image was black and white but went to colour after a couple of seconds - "ok I thought, strange but ok", but after several seconds the screen started to get bright, then white, then off. I knew it wasn't the video signal as the game system was working when I moved the joystick. I then proceeded to removing all the wires I took ages to solder before; system did same thing. "Must have fried a resistor or something - rats" - so opened up a new PSone screen, didn't sand any of the mobo down but did remove the plugs and solder to the contacts directly - same result. Changed the batteries for a more recently charged set, 7.9v - worked fine. Obviously the last set had the voltage but not amperage, hence the screen was getting its 5v to power the light, but the board was being starved!
I am now back with a clean board, which I sanded down to see how far I needed to to fit in the case but no wires attached - so I need to start again! At least it hopefully means I haven't damaged the old board hopefully! Ok, back to work. This time I will get the screen working via composite and audio only then worry about the RGB - gives me a chance to make a better guide.... 
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jjhammerstein
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bacteria
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Solved matter - good update:
This replaces my previous notes:
Firstly, dremel off the pins (optional, but a good idea so you don't damage the traces by mistake when lifting off the plugs), carefully, not to harm the board.
Secondly, use pliers to gently twist off the two plugs.
Then use a dremel to sand down to just under the line shown.
(pic below is of my old damaged board, ignore the burnt bits)
Otherside- note, cut just short of the small holes, makes it easy to connect the headphone connections, etc.
Green - rig up a wire to connect the grounds together, otherwise only one side of the board has grounding; due to removing the connecting section by the plugs. I also connected a second wire here for the battery negative connection.
Orange - solder a wire to each of the four positions - to control the screen contrast and volume settings.
Blue - the 5v line (continues to other side of board to the 7805).
Pink - 7.4v positive connection to battery.
The red line in the pic is the connection you want to solder to - I scraped the covering off to get to the trace, used flux, soldered to it and soldered wire to the connector. As the trace is slim, I used two small pieces of electrical tape to make sure only the trace was exposed when soldering the wire here, so I don't make a short.
Pic below is the wiring required for composite video and audio.
Blue circle is the other half of the 5v line, as above.
...and the extra wiring needed for RGB:
...works, and board is 7mm shorter too.
Just used a composite plug'n'play game, for this testing.
As mentioned, I could easily reduce the board size further, with some extra work, but there is no point as this is as far as I need to in my project.
This replaces my previous notes:
Firstly, dremel off the pins (optional, but a good idea so you don't damage the traces by mistake when lifting off the plugs), carefully, not to harm the board.
Secondly, use pliers to gently twist off the two plugs.
Then use a dremel to sand down to just under the line shown.
(pic below is of my old damaged board, ignore the burnt bits)
Otherside- note, cut just short of the small holes, makes it easy to connect the headphone connections, etc.
Green - rig up a wire to connect the grounds together, otherwise only one side of the board has grounding; due to removing the connecting section by the plugs. I also connected a second wire here for the battery negative connection.
Orange - solder a wire to each of the four positions - to control the screen contrast and volume settings.
Blue - the 5v line (continues to other side of board to the 7805).
Pink - 7.4v positive connection to battery.
The red line in the pic is the connection you want to solder to - I scraped the covering off to get to the trace, used flux, soldered to it and soldered wire to the connector. As the trace is slim, I used two small pieces of electrical tape to make sure only the trace was exposed when soldering the wire here, so I don't make a short.
Pic below is the wiring required for composite video and audio.
Blue circle is the other half of the 5v line, as above.
...and the extra wiring needed for RGB:
...works, and board is 7mm shorter too.
Just used a composite plug'n'play game, for this testing.
As mentioned, I could easily reduce the board size further, with some extra work, but there is no point as this is as far as I need to in my project.
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bacteria
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No problem, Kyo, as long as you give me credit for my work on the article(s).
The reason BTW that my connections are in different places to SifuF's is that I traced the lines back to their farthest points, onto the chips, etc, rather than just traces. Stronger soldering joints.
More project time tomorrow and Thursday and Friday; so should have plenty of updates coming.
Work remaining:
Reduce controller and wire it up.
D-pad.
Rumble / vibration motors (not arrived yet).
Install screen mobo.
Desolder components on PSone console mobo and rewire parts.
Rewire the CD mechanism connections.
Fix in on/off switch and also hot glue CD mechanism in place.
Complete wiring.
Testing.....
Screw the four screws in place...done!
The reason BTW that my connections are in different places to SifuF's is that I traced the lines back to their farthest points, onto the chips, etc, rather than just traces. Stronger soldering joints.
More project time tomorrow and Thursday and Friday; so should have plenty of updates coming.
Work remaining:
Reduce controller and wire it up.
D-pad.
Rumble / vibration motors (not arrived yet).
Install screen mobo.
Desolder components on PSone console mobo and rewire parts.
Rewire the CD mechanism connections.
Fix in on/off switch and also hot glue CD mechanism in place.
Complete wiring.
Testing.....
Screw the four screws in place...done!
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deviouskoopa
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bacteria
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Thanks.deviouskoopa wrote:Wow good job Bacteria, I'm impressed... can't wait to see yours/Kyo's more in-depth step-by-step guide...
The idea of this walk-through is to document work needed to replicate my IntoPlay project. If I wanted to reduce the board further to prove a point I would have done it yesterday, just an hour's work extra, or less. I have proven I can do it, and I am the first to document a step-by-step guide for others to follow; that is good enough for me.
Anyone who can solder with any degree of accuracy can replicate this mod; which is my goal after all as it will fall into the general skills needed to replicate my system.
I don't expect the NTSC board to be any different to the PAL one as the connections are not in the same board area as the S-video components are placed on the PAL board. Easy to check with a multimeter - just use a multimeter between the wires on the plugs for the video and audio and the contacts in my diagrams, if you get a "beep" you know the same connections work.
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bacteria
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Update - D-pad:
Worked out placement of rubber contact pad on part of mobo for the d-pad. I need to screw it into the system for strength and ease of removal for repairs, so figured out screw hole position(s).
Reverse of the board - remove any electrical components and sand any wire bits off/down.
To give the screw something solid to secure into, and elevated above the case so there is less chance of ruining the case with a hole being drilled through
I cut out a piece of perspex out big enough for the rubber contact to fit through comfortably (I made it a bit bigger than below in the end) and enough sides to fit in the case and give enough area to put a screw through.
Placed in position, with rubber contact pad in place for reference; then applied some hot glue under the perspex to secure to the case.
Then, wired up the d-pad. Used multimeter to make sure nothing made contact with neighbouring wires, then secured in place with hot glue. To keep the rubber contact pad in place, I put a small amount of hot glue in the middle. Unlike a d-pad cross, it doesn't need a central pivot, as you can't press all four directions on the pad at once due to the fact there is no cross but four pentagon buttons instead.
Be very careful when making a hole through the contact board into the perspex, if you let the drill drop it will go through your case and ruin it!
Yes, you are right, that is a plastic bead in place - one side is secured by a screw, the other side by a plastic bead which is exactly the same height as the space under the perspex case perimeter A small blob of hot glue stops the bead from dislodging. This makes it easy to remove the d-pad assembly if I need to make any repairs, and is also held steadfastly in place.
More updates later...going to mod the PSone controller as it needs to reside between the PSone screen and its mobo.
Worked out placement of rubber contact pad on part of mobo for the d-pad. I need to screw it into the system for strength and ease of removal for repairs, so figured out screw hole position(s).
Reverse of the board - remove any electrical components and sand any wire bits off/down.
To give the screw something solid to secure into, and elevated above the case so there is less chance of ruining the case with a hole being drilled through
I cut out a piece of perspex out big enough for the rubber contact to fit through comfortably (I made it a bit bigger than below in the end) and enough sides to fit in the case and give enough area to put a screw through.Placed in position, with rubber contact pad in place for reference; then applied some hot glue under the perspex to secure to the case.
Then, wired up the d-pad. Used multimeter to make sure nothing made contact with neighbouring wires, then secured in place with hot glue. To keep the rubber contact pad in place, I put a small amount of hot glue in the middle. Unlike a d-pad cross, it doesn't need a central pivot, as you can't press all four directions on the pad at once due to the fact there is no cross but four pentagon buttons instead.
Be very careful when making a hole through the contact board into the perspex, if you let the drill drop it will go through your case and ruin it!
Yes, you are right, that is a plastic bead in place - one side is secured by a screw, the other side by a plastic bead which is exactly the same height as the space under the perspex case perimeter
A small blob of hot glue stops the bead from dislodging. This makes it easy to remove the d-pad assembly if I need to make any repairs, and is also held steadfastly in place.More updates later...going to mod the PSone controller as it needs to reside between the PSone screen and its mobo.
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bacteria
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Update - controller:
The official PSone controller is nice - the board for the controls (buttons, shoulder and d-pad) is a nice plain board, each pin connects to a particular function.
This means this board can be removed entirely as we just need the smaller board.
Pinout - just worked it out with my multimeter:
Here are the wires connecting the controller to the console.
Rewire them like-for-like, on the top, so the bottom of the board ends up flat.
Then dremel through the original plug and pins to remove.
Some parts on the back:
yellow - capacitor relocate (ensure it is wired the same way around)
blue - no idea what this is, but relocate it anyway (the same way around)
pink - wire connecting one set of grounds to other side of board - can relocate but may as well keep it as it is
red - LED - press flatter, no need to relocate it
Done!
Colour codes the wires relate to on the controller plug:
Bunch wires into groups.
Desoldering the joysticks from the board means the following need joining together:
Started...d-pad wired up.
Hope it all works
Back to project tomorrow, had enough for today.
If I need to get to the controller board in future, I can easily pop it off as it is only help in place by two tiny spots of hot glue in the corners; the two joysticks, d-pad and button assembly come off by just a few screws. Easy.
The official PSone controller is nice - the board for the controls (buttons, shoulder and d-pad) is a nice plain board, each pin connects to a particular function.
This means this board can be removed entirely as we just need the smaller board.
Pinout - just worked it out with my multimeter:
Here are the wires connecting the controller to the console.
Rewire them like-for-like, on the top, so the bottom of the board ends up flat.
Then dremel through the original plug and pins to remove.
Some parts on the back:
yellow - capacitor relocate (ensure it is wired the same way around)
blue - no idea what this is, but relocate it anyway (the same way around)
pink - wire connecting one set of grounds to other side of board - can relocate but may as well keep it as it is
red - LED - press flatter, no need to relocate it
Done!
Colour codes the wires relate to on the controller plug:
Bunch wires into groups.
Desoldering the joysticks from the board means the following need joining together:
Started...d-pad wired up.
Hope it all works
Back to project tomorrow, had enough for today.
If I need to get to the controller board in future, I can easily pop it off as it is only help in place by two tiny spots of hot glue in the corners; the two joysticks, d-pad and button assembly come off by just a few screws. Easy.
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deviouskoopa
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At this step, where you said to join the 3 points for each of the joysticks then outlined them in blue, it appears in the last picture that you connected the 3 points on the right side, but only 2 of the points on the left side (not the diagonal one on the lower left). Maybe I'm just not seeing it though, or maybe that's just a ground area and I can't tell from the picture... just a heads up, can't be too careful.bacteria wrote: Desoldering the joysticks from the board means the following need joining together:
Started...d-pad wired up.