Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:20 pm

Ok guys, time for an update.

Need to trim a bit more than the pins on the plugs on the PSone screen - this:

So I thought, I could wire the bits I need, ie on the traces, or the hard way to find the solder point on a component or pin and solder there instead.

I was surprised actually by how (relatively) easy this is (famous last words = fry).

BTW the audio input right and left in the PSone screen mobo pinouts appear to be the wrong way around; just mentioning that...

So far, wired some of the points (more to do yet):

black = audio in right
red = audio in left
yellow = headphone left
green = headphone switch
medium blue = headphone right
white (short wire) = +5v

More to do yet, the RGB and c-sync as well as the audio outputs (L & R); and 7.4v positive and negative wires.

Frankly, the only wires you then need to do are for the contrast and volume buttons - you could cut off the whole section then, as sifuf did, retain the small components by the tact switches and re-wire them. I am keeping the top section as I want the original PSone screen light not LED's.

Thought you guys would like this work done, as it doesn't look like sifuf is going to do it - Bacteria will!

You guys can then use my work documentation to make your own screen mobos smaller for your projects!

(I just hope I don't fry the board when I get around to turning the system on

)

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:58 pm

if you have patience, I'm currently discussing the same subject with techknott and working on it myself too (tracing the pinouts like you did - though I found some different pins than yours).

Unfortunately I don't yet have a screen to experiment on, as the only screen I have technically belongs to my father - I don't want to risk breaking that (frying is the wrong word technically) - so you'll probably be done before me.

Bacteria, could you do me a favour and provide me a (preferably high-res) picture of the front of the screen without the LCD on?

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 6:12 pm

Kyo - Happy to be "included in the loop" for such discussions. As a community we can resolve this issue.

The traces on the contacts I was working on go from front to back to front of the board, until you end up at a solder joint (checked each with my multimeter first of course).

I will have to have the PSone controller on top of the screen itself, under the PSone screen mobo, hence a good reason to keep all the wiring to the top of the board.

As mentioned, someone like me doesn't know how to find the current ratings for the components on the board itself, eg fuses, however, if those parts of the mobo can be removed, you can easily re-wire them to somewhere more convenient; which gives the same results.

Not quite sure the pic you want Kyo is it the PSone screen mobo bottom section (where the LCD rests onto) you want? - BTW, trimmed the bottom bit of the board off anyway, so can't be complete now. If this is the pic you want, I have a pic with 2/3 of the board showing, at high res - PM me your e-mail if you want it.

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:57 pm

The PAL screen is sure to have different traces than the NTSC one, because it has that extra chip that allows S-Video. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm

The layout is different indeed, but they're very similar. My goal is to have a guide for both types. Of course I'll need an NTSC screen with that, but that's just a matter of importing one.

palmertech · Post by **palmertech** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:36 pm

DOES the NTSC allow svideo?

Bacteria, this is looking sweet. First project that really seems to look "Nice".

Neildo_64 · Post by **Neildo_64** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:14 am

Nope.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:36 am

Kyo - I will probably beat you too it; my wiring of the PAL PSone screen is now 65% complete; I have 3 days next week for project work so will be testing my screen Tuesday or Wednesday; hopefully I haven't shorted anything! Happy enough if you want to do the NTSC one before me if you like, if you don't I will have this board done too at the close of my project.

I have two NTSC PSone screens too, so when I finish this project I will provide screen pics for the same wiring on an NTSC screen - I need to anyway, as someone buying my kit to make their own system is more likely to use NTSC than PAL probably. I will use these NTSC screens for GP2x mod and also Retro Duo, which is why I got the screens and the Retro Duo (NTSC and PAL SNES games) - both for my existing case of course.

I don't need to cut the PSone screen mobo past the point in the pic in my previous posting; just above the plug contacts between the two speaker output connections is all I need, so is all I will do. There aren't many components to relocate if you want to make it smaller still, it's just I don't need the extra work done for my project. I probably don't need to rewire all the parts I have done anyway, just doing it for fun

The NTSC PSone screen mobo does not allow for S-video, the PAL does, however you either have the choice of S-video and RGB or composite and RGB - not all three options together.

Yes, palmertech, this is my "first project that really seems to look nice"; well, better than "nice" actually. This one is quality.

BTW - I think there is an error on all the pinouts for the PSone screen mobo - they show pin 10 to be left audio (RGB) and pin 9 to be right audio (RGB) - if you look on the PSone board, it looks like they are the other way around. Am I the only one to notice this? I know LOB said a while back that when he was tinkering with the headphone jack the left seemed right and the right left; as they appear to be correct on the diagram, I suggest that it wasn't his error on the headphone pinout he made before and he had it correct; rather an error on the pinout for the audio in on the mobo diagram - having these in reverse will have the same effect he found.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:17 am

I realize that you will beat me to it, but you aren't going to cut off as much as SifuF, are you?

besides, it was never about being the first one, it's about finding out and documenting knowledge. I don't have a problem with basing my work on the accomplishments of others.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:27 pm

Kyo wrote:I realize that you will beat me to it, but you aren't going to cut off as much as SifuF, are you?

besides, it was never about being the first one, it's about finding out and documenting knowledge. I don't have a problem with basing my work on the accomplishments of others.

Kyo - i'm not doing it as a race, if SifuF didn't already do it I would be still needing to anyway as if I don't cut off some of the bottom of the board it won't fit in my case. In saying that, I would only have needed to rewire three or four wires, not all the relevant ones as I am doing. I am doing that so that others can trim the board down a lot further if they want to; not difficult at all when the only remaining components can be relocated by keeping them on their bits of board and wiring to them directly. In that process, you could cut off the same amount at the bottom of the board just using my guide; although no, I won't cut it down that much for my project as I don't need to. Others can if they like.

Yes, the PAL version has some extras for S-video that the NTSC doesn't, so it will be interesting to see what the differences are. As always, I will fully document my work for others to view.

As mentioned, I will be doing the same work on the NTSC PSone screen mobo too, then everyone using an NTSC board can trim their boards too if they want to. I need to do this anyway.

I will be updating my site quite a lot in due course, and will also make the change to the incorrect PSone pinout for the audio input lines.

Checked my wiring so far, turns out the wire from the 7805 (5v) to the capacitor was soldered to the wrong one - will amend that. Should have gone onto the capacitor on the next upper row instead. Will update pics in next day or two. Good thing I found out now, if I left it until the power was connected I would probably have fried the baord!

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:25 am

Update - Finished the soldering, just need to test, then trim some of the board down (just what I need to) and test again. Job for tomorrow.

Underside of board - I don't need to relocate the volume and contrast connections on the tact switches, so I just wired to them. When I produce final pics, I will show which connections you need to solder to if you want to, though.

In this pic, the four red wires control the contrast and volume connections, the orange wire is for the 7.4v, black is negative; the horizontal black wire is to connect the grounding for the board - taking off the bottom of the board makes the two halves of the board disconnect otherwise. Plenty of other places the wire can be connected to, I just put it in the place I did as it was convenient.

Front of board:

...and descriptions of what goes where:

As you see, fine soldering needed- to the very tiny capacitors and also two pins on a small chip. Kyo - you said before on more than one occasion that you have shaky hands, do you think you will be able to do this fine soldering

If you want to trim the board down even further, if you cut out the components in pink and rewire them, you can cut off the mobo to the yellow line: if you then relocate four more components and also the 7805, you can get to the blue line.

I don't need to do this for my project, so no point. I just need to make the board fit in my case, so I need to take off 6-7mm from the bottom of the board for my project only - to the yellow line is about 9mm and the blue line 21mm. That is as good a SifuF got.

I am keeping the top of the board intact as I am using the screen unmodded (ie no LED's); although I did trim off some of the top of the board above the transformer (empty part of board).

I didn't need the composite wire, of course, however I put it in as the idea is to test the board works fine on a plug'n'play (composite) as it is easy to rig up; if it doesn't work I must have a short somewhere; if it works and I get audio and video working fine then I can trim the board down to what I need to do, then all should be fine to install to the system and connect the RGB up. Convenience really.

When all is shown to work (fingers crossed), I will post better pics showing the components to solder to more clearly.

palmertech · Post by **palmertech** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:46 pm

Bacteria, I would REALLY try LEDs.

Bens mod only used 3, which is terrible. My LED modded screen has 8 really bright 3mm LEDs, and I replaced the white backing with silver mylar (The DS Lite does this, it makes a huge difference) and my screen looks BETTER than stock, in my opinion. It is really bright, draws less power, and you can trim a huge chunk off the LCD board.

I can take pics of my screen next to an unmodded one, if you want.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:02 pm

4 also looks really good. I can barely notice a difference.

jjhammerstein · Post by **jjhammerstein** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:52 pm

I'm interested in seeing palmertech's supermodded one in comparison to a stock one and a 4-LED mod.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:12 pm

Yes, interested to see the differences. Silver mylar - (link?) - not familir with it.

I don't like the screen to be bright in the corners and sides and dim in the middle - I like it uniform; if you have made it so, interested to know more!