Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:51 am

Important update! Case base finished!!

After wasting about 4 sheets of plasticard, got the final result.

Made a short video of the case, better way to show what I have achieved so far than with pics. Edges of case are stuck with sticky clear tape. Needs final sanding to make sure it is perfect; however I have had enough today, my floor is covered in plastic shavings so I need to tidy up!

Will have time for some minor work in next days, however back in earnest on Monday. First job will be to finish the sanding, and put in some shoulder buttons.

Anyway, here is the video for your delectation:

Quick question - what is the best way to preserve my clay molds? No idea how many times I can reuse them before they get damaged; would paint varnish work?? Obviously, if I coat with anything, it has to be ok to stand heat from the plastic when out of the oven and also not stick to the clay. At the moment, I can press down on the flat part of the plastic to release the clay enough (about 6mm or so) so I can pry it gently out with my fingers.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 2:58 am

Another day, another dollar!

Ok, decided the way forward with the casing integration.

Option 1 (with the strip) will not work as the plastic casing is too bendable; after vacuum forming the plastic varies on the edges between about 1/2mm to 1mm, although is still strong due to the shape of the construction - sturdy. Putting a strip on the inside of one half of the casing is fine if the case has thick plastic and no give, which is not the case; there is some give. When holding the casing, using that method, one part of the casing would move a little, which is not acceptable - needs to be rigid and feel solid and inflexible.

Other issue of course is being able to screw the two pieces together.

I have the solution - not using clay - far better and more reliable and stronger method - cutting out a piece of perspex, 2mm (as I used on my other projects), to fit exactly the inside shape of the case snugly, and plastic weld glue to seal it. Both halves will be treated the same way, then it is easy to raise a shaft for the screws to be located. The inside of the perspex will of course be cut out, so only a small amount of edging is needed.

This will be secure, strong and light; and easy to screw in place. Ideal!

sdh · Post by **sdh** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 3:39 am

It looks so tiny!

Now when you have the halves together, what does it measure in thickness? (mm)

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 3:41 pm

56mm tall. Feels really comfy to hold though, as already mentioned: and yes, the case is small.

It is quite possible that I can use the same casing on this project for an N64 or a SNES (Retro Duo) and having the carts inside the case. There is just enough space, just looked; the boards are smaller than the PSone console board, which means the batteries can lay on their sides inside the case, on either side (left and right) leaving enough space for a cart slot and cart. On the Retro Duo, toying with ideas to use the NES too.

Using one-casing for three systems would be excellent, means all systems will be same heights and design. Jewel in the crown...

Some pics:

colosalblack · Post by **colosalblack** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:27 am

I cant wait to see this finished.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:49 am

No chance today to do any project work, however I will have the morning tomorrow for project work: after making the shoulder button holes I will get the sides done and reinforced with perspex; this will be a good update!

After that, I can get on with making the large hole cutout for the CD recess and then spray painting the casing before assembling the unit.

I spent time this morning trying to find something good and strong to package my kits into. Not as easy as it sounds. Lunchboxes work but hard to buy in quantities and cost about Â£3 each (expensive), other option I might try are some local packaging box-makers to see if I can get some from them. I will need to contact some companies and getting quotes - low quantities and cheap!

Making my project is all well and good but that is only part of the issue, I also need to:

* Have suppliers lined up for Plasticard, perspex, tact switches, etc to include in kit as necessary [DONE] Hope molds don't get damaged

* Box / container / packaging to put everything into [EVALUATING]
* Step-by-step guides for my site (cut/paste/compress/reword from this thread [IN PROGRESS]
* Make CD with step-by-step guide and templates [PENDING]
* Make case tops and bottoms and prepare them [PENDING]
* Print templates to include in kit [DONE / DOING]
* Videos [PENDING]
* Update my website [PENDING]

Lots of work!!

khaag · Post by **khaag** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:12 pm

You know, you should look into getting your moulds reproduced as a more permanent thing. There are companies out there who will take a design from you and cnc it or similar to get you a hard copy. It might be worth the investment if you plan on making a whole bunch of these

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:00 am

I have a "Cunning plan" to quote Blackadder... I am going to make several cases and keep two behind; if my mold breaks (eg I drop it) and can't repair, I will get more clay and press it into one of my formed case halves, in layers so it dries as I go. I can then release it from the plastic and I have a replacement mold! (at least, in theory).

khaag - I have no idea how many people will buy my cases. Between my Multi and Mini projects, they have had 34,000 viewings on YouTube, over 31,000 hits on my website (although that is only via the homepage, not repeat visitors), and many thousands of hits on this site as well as thousands of hits on other forums and blogs (from me and others). Possibly around 100,000 in total. If (only taking my website hits and YouTube hits as they come from other sites like Engadget, etc) only 1/10 of 1% buy from me I could sell 65, if 1% buy, 650; or I could get orders for 5 or well over 1,000: who knows. What I do know is that I doubt I will sell more than a couple/few hundred at very most before I stop as otherwise I can't get on with project work!

Each kit is going to be prepared by me and each case mold done and prepared by me; as well as packing and getting posted; that is a lot of time...

It's one of those things that might sell a dozen or hundreds; I have no way to predict; so on that basis, I need to keep my manufacturing small and made to order; by putting a few up on e-bay at a time, when they sell, make more and back on e-bay again. Also, with each kit I will need to source materials, which take a few days to arrive anyway. Just bought 100 tact switches with the rubber contact pads from Hong Kong (useful for the C buttons for my N64 addon project), they will take about a fortnight to arrive; for example. Another issue is the packaging - I have about 12 boxes ready for initial orders, after that I might need to get some specially made (cost and time).

If I knew I was going to sell hundreds I might look into getting them manufactured, however if they only sell in low quantities then the tooling costs and run costs would end up costing me money.

I therefore prefer to keep my operation small, to keep control and also give a decent profit for my time and effort to make it worth my while. I need to sell nine kits before I get my R&D and materials recovered before I even start seeing any profit at all. When my mold breaks and I can't make another then that will be the end of supply; so best idea, if you want one, is to be one of the early buyers!

I have costed the kit, but not disclosing details until I can detail the value for money people will get; a price is immaterial until perceived value is given, ie what you get and what it does and its benefit to you; what I can say though is that my kits will be cheaper than "the alternative" and I will ship anywhere in the world.

UPDATE:

Found this search after a quick Google search: here

9 x 6 x 4 inches is fine.

Buying two packs of 25 and after postage and tax, will cost Â£34.04, so 68p each (about 97c). Seems a fair price, and if I don't sell enough case kits, I can use the remainder to ship e-bay items in.

Won't buy them until I need them, also I will need to buy other stuff from them too maybe.

I will also speak to Remploy, they are based in Portsmouth, about 30 miles from where I live as they purely employ disabled people as their workforce to manufacture items; I would prefer to support their work and ethos; however don't know if they will provide what I want (should do, major supplier).

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:41 am

Gosh, progress is really slow; still, will get there in the end!

Sanded case base to give final sand.

Done. When screwed together, the edges will look tight.

As you see in the pic, the angle of my casing is roughly the same as on the PSone controller. The P2 button on the PSone controller was recessed (probably a reason I got it for 50p). One button will be on the top of the case (P1) and the P2 button on the bottom section. Fingers go there naturally and rest in this position nicely.

Opened up a new controller, didn't have to, but looks far smarter for a WIP log.

The rubber contacts are too thick for what I need and also aren't secured to the board properly. I will be using tact switches instead, the same as for the PSone screen controls (with stick), however the top of the stick is cut off and the hole in the button (P1) reduced as the space in the case is tight:

Pic of how it looks set in case. The joystick is orientated correctly, the screen in place and shoulder button in place. Very tight, no space to move, joystick rubs against screen, just, but fine. Might trim off 1/4mm from the joystick housing if need to.

Now, need to cut out the hole, and do same on other side too.

I think you can now see how much planning and design work has gone into making and designing this case...

UPDATE

Got the right shoulder button installed. Had to turn the button upside down, so the contours work. Looks so good it could have been made for the job!!

Camera pics not great, couldn't get the camera to focus in the right place

Out of time today, need to get some lunch before going for a kip (working Nights tonight).

Will have a little time for project tomorrow and half a day on Thursday; had expected to have Friday off for project work but instead I will be working, due to a promotion/upgrade at work I got yesterday.

khaag · Post by **khaag** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 5:36 am

I didn't mean getting your cases manufactured, I just meant that you could find a place that could make you a more durable mould to vacuum form with.

Perhaps a Rapid Prototyping firm. It won't hurt to get a quote to see what it would cost, and in the long run, if it isn't too expensive, it might pay off

http://www.star-prototype-china.com/#/r ... 4522345495

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 5:50 am

khaag - You are a real star mate - another useful contact!!

I have e-mailed them for a quote, out of curiosity, as you say, nothing to lose by knowing and if it is cheap enough, might be useful!

BTW - Just changed my avator, old one was looking dull. Gave it a Santa hat of course

Like it??

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:35 am

That case looks really good, bacteria. I think I'll try to make a vacuum former soon.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:41 am

Thanks Kyo.

grahf · Post by **grahf** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:20 am

This is turning out quite nice. Very sleek. It looked really... strange at first, but now that you've made all the button/screen/joystick holes, it look really good.

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:45 am

Wonderful work, Bacteria. I love your WIPs.

To help your camera focus on a hole, put your hand behind the hole, then focus the camera. You can then remove your hand.