khaag wrote:If you're going to use the stickers as stencils like you say, make sure before you peel them off, that you very carefully score lightly around the sticker with an exacto knife. If you don't there is a 100% chance that it will peel of a little bit of the top coat of paint exposing your red. I know this because I've made the mistake before.
If you're really keen on doing a professional on this thing, why not try screen printing it? That way you can print designs right off your PC and use those! Apparently it's really easy and cheap to do at home. There's an instructable on exactly how to do it here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Screen- ... d-At-Home/
Another option you have is inkjet waterslide decals. You put them in your inkjet printer and they turn out exactly like those decals for model cars and the like. They are also really cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-PHOTO-QUALITY- ... 240%3A1318
They yield a nice, professional result:
Bacteria's project - PSone portable: IntoPlay finished: PICS
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Ya gotta take out the URL tags. 
Personally, I'd say to go with the waterslide paper. Its pretty simple to use. Think like a temporary tattoo. Because, frankly, that's what it is.
EDIT: I noticed you said something about lengthening the ribbon. Careful to not make it so large that you start loosing data strength. This could cause game failures. I don't know how long they'd have to be before that started happening.
EDIT: I noticed you said something about lengthening the ribbon. Careful to not make it so large that you start loosing data strength. This could cause game failures. I don't know how long they'd have to be before that started happening.
Please keep an eye on my HBN64 progress.
HBN-Style Anti-Noise Headphones.
Moderatio Est Figmentum.
Long live the Queen of Bondo!
HBN-Style Anti-Noise Headphones.
Moderatio Est Figmentum.
Long live the Queen of Bondo!
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bacteria
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Reminds me of when I was about 10 years old and used to make Airfix kits. They came with these types of decals and you put them into a saucer of warm water and after a few minutes the card backing dropped to the bottom of the water and the plastic decal floated to the surface. You then just placed the decal onto your model aircraft and it dried and stuck there quickly.khaag wrote:Another option you have is inkjet waterslide decals. You put them in your inkjet printer and they turn out exactly like those decals for model cars and the like. They are also really cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-PHOTO-QUALITY- ... 240%3A1318
This looks like the same stuff?
I really like this, khaag, many thanks for your posting - just bought some from the link you gave; 10 sheets will do for a while - plan is to print a sheet's worth of system names, then I can include one or two variations in my product packaging for people to choose what they want to have on their systems. Being A4 size and printable from a computer, I can choose whatever font I want and the exact size I need. The sheets can also be printed with the PlayStation logo for the system too; small for front, large for back.
Thanks, excellent. Just what I wanted!
This will look as professional as I can make it by the time I finish.
HBN - Yes, lengthening the ribbon - need to in order to get two batteries in a logical place, and make the system properly balanced. The extension by wires will only be about 70mm or thereabouts, so should be short enough to be fine. Only one way to find out!
Working out the CD backing plate has proven a right royal pain in the butt frankly. My case is too small for the original PSone hinge assembly, thought about using hinges but hinges after a while will move and then the top won't close properly; also there is the issue of closing it shut at the other side. I also need the tray to shut and feel solid against the back casing, which wouldn't completely work right.
The method I have come up with is like a container and lid method, like you get with plastic containers. In other words, you press the lid down, friction then holds it in place. I will incorporate a finger hold which will allow for removal of this plate easily and quickly and also allow for quick and easy removal of the game CD too.
I will have to make a mold and test my idea out. Might be able to incorporate a mechanism possibly.
I had thought I would have had this project done in the next week or two, however it may take longer now possibly. I am doing what I can to make the end result have the "wow" factor, so this is taking a considerable amount of extra time in R&D to achieve, as well as being "over budget". So far, I have spent quite a bit on the plasticard (bought more sheets), the spray paints, clay, etc - probably spent about £100 so far on materials and development (eg vacuum table, etc). Good thing funds are not an issue.
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bacteria
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Right, here's the idea in practice:
Had a look around the house for inspiration. Found a lid from a tub of coleslaw.

See, there is enough space for a CD to spin happily inside - in fact, the size is absolutely perfect!

Cut off the bottom bit along the lid edge; cut a piece of 2mm thick perspex; fits tightly. Easy to put on and remove. Rigid too.
The lips in the lid to keep the base attached firmly when connected provide a good stop for the perspex so it doesn't drop down.

Only downside of this is that if I sell lots of cases, my wife and I will be getting sick of eating lots of coleslaw!!!
Actually, ideal on another level too using the coleslaw lid - the bottom part can be stuck to a plastic base for the CD mechanism to go into - there is enough height and clearance for this and also for the CD to spin unhindered.
Couldn't have made anything more suitable!!
Had a look around the house for inspiration. Found a lid from a tub of coleslaw.

See, there is enough space for a CD to spin happily inside - in fact, the size is absolutely perfect!

Cut off the bottom bit along the lid edge; cut a piece of 2mm thick perspex; fits tightly. Easy to put on and remove. Rigid too.

Only downside of this is that if I sell lots of cases, my wife and I will be getting sick of eating lots of coleslaw!!!
Actually, ideal on another level too using the coleslaw lid - the bottom part can be stuck to a plastic base for the CD mechanism to go into - there is enough height and clearance for this and also for the CD to spin unhindered.
Couldn't have made anything more suitable!!
Yes, it's exactly the same stuff, John. I do believe it'll work out quite nicely for you. Oh and that's some good luck with the coleslaw lid!bacteria wrote:Reminds me of when I was about 10 years old and used to make Airfix kits. They came with these types of decals and you put them into a saucer of warm water and after a few minutes the card backing dropped to the bottom of the water and the plastic decal floated to the surface. You then just placed the decal onto your model aircraft and it dried and stuck there quickly.khaag wrote:Another option you have is inkjet waterslide decals. You put them in your inkjet printer and they turn out exactly like those decals for model cars and the like. They are also really cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/A4-PHOTO-QUALITY- ... 240%3A1318
This looks like the same stuff?
I really like this, khaag, many thanks for your posting - just bought some from the link you gave; 10 sheets will do for a while - plan is to print a sheet's worth of system names, then I can include one or two variations in my product packaging for people to choose what they want to have on their systems. Being A4 size and printable from a computer, I can choose whatever font I want and the exact size I need. The sheets can also be printed with the PlayStation logo for the system too; small for front, large for back.
Thanks, excellent. Just what I wanted!
This will look as professional as I can make it by the time I finish.
HBN - Yes, lengthening the ribbon - need to in order to get two batteries in a logical place, and make the system properly balanced. The extension by wires will only be about 70mm or thereabouts, so should be short enough to be fine. Only one way to find out!
Working out the CD backing plate has proven a right royal pain in the butt frankly. My case is too small for the original PSone hinge assembly, thought about using hinges but hinges after a while will move and then the top won't close properly; also there is the issue of closing it shut at the other side. I also need the tray to shut and feel solid against the back casing, which wouldn't completely work right.
The method I have come up with is like a container and lid method, like you get with plastic containers. In other words, you press the lid down, friction then holds it in place. I will incorporate a finger hold which will allow for removal of this plate easily and quickly and also allow for quick and easy removal of the game CD too.
I will have to make a mold and test my idea out. Might be able to incorporate a mechanism possibly.
I had thought I would have had this project done in the next week or two, however it may take longer now possibly. I am doing what I can to make the end result have the "wow" factor, so this is taking a considerable amount of extra time in R&D to achieve, as well as being "over budget". So far, I have spent quite a bit on the plasticard (bought more sheets), the spray paints, clay, etc - probably spent about £100 so far on materials and development (eg vacuum table, etc). Good thing funds are not an issue.
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bacteria
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Mmmm coleslaw 
Thanks again Kevin for the link. That is why I love this forum, lots of people about to make good comments, suggestions and offer help.
Made mold, took 3 1/4 packs of clay. Had some white clay left over from before, so used some of that. When I bought the last set of clay, the shop ran out of white clay, so had to get brown.
Didn't want brown as it makes it look like baking a cake. Mmmm, cake
It is about 5mm taller than it needs to be, you need to make a mold a little bigger than you need it to end up with, so it looks better after forming.
So, here's the pics so far of the chocolate cake,
no, clay mold:

As you see, the top and bottom have to be quite straight, the left and right sides can be sloping.

Looks quite good by eye, however once dried, will use a ruler to make sure it is as symmetrical as I can get it, as I did before.
The mold is in my airing cupboard at the moment, will leave it there for a couple of hours, then put it on a wire cake rack, leave it a few hours at room temperature, then back in airing cupboard, then out in the room again. It will probably take about 2 days before it is nice and dry, for sanding - ideal as I have a fair bit of time next week for project work.
When mold is dried, it will be a case of sanding, filling gaps, sanding; etc, etc. Needs to be as smooth as possible.

Thanks again Kevin for the link. That is why I love this forum, lots of people about to make good comments, suggestions and offer help.
Made mold, took 3 1/4 packs of clay. Had some white clay left over from before, so used some of that. When I bought the last set of clay, the shop ran out of white clay, so had to get brown.
Didn't want brown as it makes it look like baking a cake. Mmmm, cake

It is about 5mm taller than it needs to be, you need to make a mold a little bigger than you need it to end up with, so it looks better after forming.
So, here's the pics so far of the chocolate cake,
no, clay mold: 
As you see, the top and bottom have to be quite straight, the left and right sides can be sloping.

Looks quite good by eye, however once dried, will use a ruler to make sure it is as symmetrical as I can get it, as I did before.
The mold is in my airing cupboard at the moment, will leave it there for a couple of hours, then put it on a wire cake rack, leave it a few hours at room temperature, then back in airing cupboard, then out in the room again. It will probably take about 2 days before it is nice and dry, for sanding - ideal as I have a fair bit of time next week for project work.
When mold is dried, it will be a case of sanding, filling gaps, sanding; etc, etc. Needs to be as smooth as possible.
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exploding.monkey
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bacteria
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They are on internet battery sites; although it is more common to get them as 1850mA rather than 2000mA, 2000mA are obviously better; there are a number of them on e-bay: go for the slimline ones, 7.4v, 2000mA. Just did a search on e-bay, got 200 hits. Just type "canon 915 batteries". Easy to get hold of.
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Life of Brian
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That's a great idea! It would make it more of a kit than just a case.bacteria wrote:10 sheets will do for a while - plan is to print a sheet's worth of system names, then I can include one or two variations in my product packaging for people to choose what they want to have on their systems.
I totally understand.bacteria wrote:I had thought I would have had this project done in the next week or two, however it may take longer now possibly. I am doing what I can to make the end result have the "wow" factor, so this is taking a considerable amount of extra time in R&D to achieve, as well as being "over budget".
I love clear CD lids - I hope you keep it clear!
dragonhead wrote:sweet. ive spent a third of my life on benheck!

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bacteria
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LOB - Thanks as always for your comments.
In regards to the lid, yes, I intend to have it mostly clear, with a
logo on it, taking about 1/3 of the space on the clear disk.
It is unfortunate, but having the PSone CD device in the portable makes the system thick. Others have made it slimmer as their disks are left free-spinning, mine is being integrated. The CD mechanism and the CD protector top is taking approaching 28-30mm thickness of the system, which is not good for the thickness of the overall system!
In my next one (N64) I can get the case down to more like around 2/3 of this as an estimate as the batteries can be located behind the PSone screen itself to save some height. The current project is, as mentioned, going to be more like 55m thick - but then, you can also take the view that an official PSone console with an official PSone screen down is also that height (just looked) and doesn't have any batteries, unlike mine; it isn't so bad.
Real test is when I make a case out of the mold and see what I get. I will need to spend time adjusting the mold to suit as the idea is that the two case halves need to be the same size, which is not as easy as it sounds!
I could have looked into Li-po cells, etc, but wanted a solution that is easy for someone to copy as if they use other batteries than the ones I use then the case won't work; so using bog standard Li-ions freely available (Canon BP-911 / BP-915 camcorder batteries) and with integrated protection circuits and sealed in a nice plastic case.
I intend to sell the items via e-bay (I have 831 feedback, 100% and the ratings around 4.8 / 4.9) as a kit with the cases, instructions, components listed below (no console, screen, etc included of course), however there are options I can offer the buyer, so I intend to offer a menu of items for people to choose what they want via my website so people can pick and choose their package.
Options will be getting extra fronts and backs; shiny white, matt white, spray painted in metallic black or metallic gold; with or without cut-out holes drawn in the casing (someone might want to use a smaller screen, bigger buttons, slightly different layout, etc). Also in the options will be printed instructions, the four 6mm tact switches with cap on top in red or black, 40mm mylar speakers (maybe), and other items. That way, someone can choose what they want to pay for.
I intend to offer BenHeck members a discount, of course.
In regards to the lid, yes, I intend to have it mostly clear, with a
logo on it, taking about 1/3 of the space on the clear disk.It is unfortunate, but having the PSone CD device in the portable makes the system thick. Others have made it slimmer as their disks are left free-spinning, mine is being integrated. The CD mechanism and the CD protector top is taking approaching 28-30mm thickness of the system, which is not good for the thickness of the overall system!
In my next one (N64) I can get the case down to more like around 2/3 of this as an estimate as the batteries can be located behind the PSone screen itself to save some height. The current project is, as mentioned, going to be more like 55m thick - but then, you can also take the view that an official PSone console with an official PSone screen down is also that height (just looked) and doesn't have any batteries, unlike mine; it isn't so bad.
Real test is when I make a case out of the mold and see what I get. I will need to spend time adjusting the mold to suit as the idea is that the two case halves need to be the same size, which is not as easy as it sounds!
I could have looked into Li-po cells, etc, but wanted a solution that is easy for someone to copy as if they use other batteries than the ones I use then the case won't work; so using bog standard Li-ions freely available (Canon BP-911 / BP-915 camcorder batteries) and with integrated protection circuits and sealed in a nice plastic case.
I intend to sell the items via e-bay (I have 831 feedback, 100% and the ratings around 4.8 / 4.9) as a kit with the cases, instructions, components listed below (no console, screen, etc included of course), however there are options I can offer the buyer, so I intend to offer a menu of items for people to choose what they want via my website so people can pick and choose their package.
Options will be getting extra fronts and backs; shiny white, matt white, spray painted in metallic black or metallic gold; with or without cut-out holes drawn in the casing (someone might want to use a smaller screen, bigger buttons, slightly different layout, etc). Also in the options will be printed instructions, the four 6mm tact switches with cap on top in red or black, 40mm mylar speakers (maybe), and other items. That way, someone can choose what they want to pay for.
I intend to offer BenHeck members a discount, of course.
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ShockSlayer
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I love hearing about this project!
Nice work , expecting it to be epic!
SS
Nice work , expecting it to be epic!
SS
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Great stuff Bacteria. Will you still make a PSone adapter for your multi-system project? (Not to rip on your current project, which looks great!)

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bacteria
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Thanks SS !
ian2120 - No, as there is no point in doing PSone in the Multi system anymore as it is being done on this smaller, one. What I am going to do is make some systems using my current casing:
PSone (this project)
N64
Retro Duo (SNES & NES) - got an NTSC PSone screen; a couple of NTSC games and loads of PAL carts.
GBA - better in a dedicated case...
GP2x - I have heard that if you keep the video wires short, and use NTSC, that the screen is a better quality. I have a 2nd NTSC PSone screen to play with.
MegaDrive if I can work out how to wire up a Radica to take commercial PAL carts...
Mini project - re-case it
The back of the cases may be different to this project but the front will be the same.
Modding the PSone console in this project is the same as for the Multi, as far as the system electronics are concerned and if a system has a small (ish) motherboard it doesn't need to be in the Multi system; which is better suited for the larger board systems. I have some consoles dumped in a couple of big boxes pending future modding - Saturn, GX4000, about 4 GameCubes, Xbox (not for modding, just play), Jaguar. I don't have a Dreamcast, often see them at car boot sales, may get around to buy one at some point.
The Multi project is on hold for a while - my skills have progressed to the vacuum formed systems now so concentrating on that - the systems as above and marketing my kits for sale. That is my area of focus.
ian2120 - No, as there is no point in doing PSone in the Multi system anymore as it is being done on this smaller, one. What I am going to do is make some systems using my current casing:
PSone (this project)
N64
Retro Duo (SNES & NES) - got an NTSC PSone screen; a couple of NTSC games and loads of PAL carts.
GBA - better in a dedicated case...
GP2x - I have heard that if you keep the video wires short, and use NTSC, that the screen is a better quality. I have a 2nd NTSC PSone screen to play with.
MegaDrive if I can work out how to wire up a Radica to take commercial PAL carts...
Mini project - re-case it
The back of the cases may be different to this project but the front will be the same.
Modding the PSone console in this project is the same as for the Multi, as far as the system electronics are concerned and if a system has a small (ish) motherboard it doesn't need to be in the Multi system; which is better suited for the larger board systems. I have some consoles dumped in a couple of big boxes pending future modding - Saturn, GX4000, about 4 GameCubes, Xbox (not for modding, just play), Jaguar. I don't have a Dreamcast, often see them at car boot sales, may get around to buy one at some point.
The Multi project is on hold for a while - my skills have progressed to the vacuum formed systems now so concentrating on that - the systems as above and marketing my kits for sale. That is my area of focus.
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bacteria
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Working on getting the case bottom mold done, will probably take rest of my time tomorrow to complete - and make a case from it therefore Wednesday.
Bought a Canon USB scanner at a car boot sale for £1 a few months back; doesn't need power, gets it from USB. No idea if it worked, just tried it on XP, works like a dream! £1 only!!
If anyone is interested, print this pic 14.53 x 23.00 cms on your printer for life-sized goodness (case is smaller than these dimensions, however it prints a border). You get a feel for the size then. Touched up the scan image a little to make the holes blacker; this is designed as the template for the holes in the case - idea is that someone can cut out the holes, attach to the case, draw outlines and then get to Dremel fun time.
Bought a Canon USB scanner at a car boot sale for £1 a few months back; doesn't need power, gets it from USB. No idea if it worked, just tried it on XP, works like a dream! £1 only!!
If anyone is interested, print this pic 14.53 x 23.00 cms on your printer for life-sized goodness (case is smaller than these dimensions, however it prints a border). You get a feel for the size then. Touched up the scan image a little to make the holes blacker; this is designed as the template for the holes in the case - idea is that someone can cut out the holes, attach to the case, draw outlines and then get to Dremel fun time.

