Moral Dillema (Involving a GBO)
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Kurt_
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Moral Dillema (Involving a GBO)
I am making a NESp in a GameBoy Original case, like G-force did, and Turbo is currently doing. I was originally planning on framing the GBO guts, as I don't want to ruin such a piece of history. I mean, there are no other hand-held gaming systems that have survived a bombing, and the lack of surface mount components is wonderful. All parts are through-hole, and you just don't see anything like that nowadays.
On the other hand, I want the mushy feel of rubber contacts on a smooth surface, not on tact switches. I got some great new ones if I have to.
Is there a way to remake one of these boards? Tim has a bunch of etching things, but it seems awfully expensive.
Can I make something with normal blank PCB that would work 100%?
On the other hand, I want the mushy feel of rubber contacts on a smooth surface, not on tact switches. I got some great new ones if I have to.
Is there a way to remake one of these boards? Tim has a bunch of etching things, but it seems awfully expensive.
Can I make something with normal blank PCB that would work 100%?
Hey, sup?
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bicostp
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Why not use the pads from another controller? They all work on the same principle.
You could always have the original GBO guts set in a solid block of acrylic. That would be interesting. (We did something like this with an old badge and some specialty tools when my grandfather retired.) It would be even better if you can have an external connector (or at least some contact pads on the outside edge of the plastic) to allow a hacked NES pad and batteries to work with it.
You could always have the original GBO guts set in a solid block of acrylic. That would be interesting. (We did something like this with an old badge and some specialty tools when my grandfather retired.) It would be even better if you can have an external connector (or at least some contact pads on the outside edge of the plastic) to allow a hacked NES pad and batteries to work with it.
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Kurt_
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I was thinking of something like that (about the guts), but to do an external controller mod would, well, need me to modify it. Which I don't want to do.
As tempting as a block of acrylic is, I may save that idea for something a tad...smaller. Imagine how big and heavy that would be, not to mention awkward to place in a room. I was going to fold the back board up, so that it's splayed like a fish, and you can see all it's glory. The screen, button contacts, and cartridge slot will all be on the same side. If I get the right shadowbox I'll show it to you all.
As for using controller contacts, how would I align them? Especially since I'm only going to be using the stuff I get in the Super Joy 3 package. Basically, the 1st player controller. I was hoping for one neat board, as space is a critical factor. Is there a way I could use normal board (the kind with the holes ringed with copper on both sides) to accomplish this? I'm struggling with ideas, mostly because of the 3rd dimension factor. Will the mushy pad touch all the needed contact all the time?
As tempting as a block of acrylic is, I may save that idea for something a tad...smaller. Imagine how big and heavy that would be, not to mention awkward to place in a room. I was going to fold the back board up, so that it's splayed like a fish, and you can see all it's glory. The screen, button contacts, and cartridge slot will all be on the same side. If I get the right shadowbox I'll show it to you all.
As for using controller contacts, how would I align them? Especially since I'm only going to be using the stuff I get in the Super Joy 3 package. Basically, the 1st player controller. I was hoping for one neat board, as space is a critical factor. Is there a way I could use normal board (the kind with the holes ringed with copper on both sides) to accomplish this? I'm struggling with ideas, mostly because of the 3rd dimension factor. Will the mushy pad touch all the needed contact all the time?
Hey, sup?
If you wanted to there was one guy that built a VCSp and put the rubber pads over tact switches. The only other option I can think of is if you were to order a PCB designed to fill this need of your's.
I'd say try the first one, it's the easiest one to do. The second one well it would be very professional... the price would be high and I doubt you have the funds or desire to invest the additional money.
I'd say try the first one, it's the easiest one to do. The second one well it would be very professional... the price would be high and I doubt you have the funds or desire to invest the additional money.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
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Ben Cebhrem
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My personal suggestion would be to just buy another GBO off of ebay to hack apart for the controls. If destroying the controls of a working GBO seems offensive to you, there are usually one or two auctions for broken ones (there is a broken one for sale right now, but it also happens to be more expensive than many of the working ones.)
From the OLD ozforces forums
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Kurt_
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At loup: Peter Griffin Says "Hey! Hey! Hey! Stop it! Stop!...Okay? Okay." (Youtube took it off because it was the scene with Jesus being whipped and apparently violates it's terms of use. In other news, Youtube is spammed with the Jesus finger trick video, and videos of people doing the Jesus finger trick).
CFC: The problem with that is that the buttons may not align for the d-pad. If that's the case, I need to cut out individual contacts and the likes.
Sparkfist: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly). I will If I have to but would prefer not to.
I'll see what I can fit in there without modification. Maybe I CAN cut out individual contacts, and glue them on to another 1-piece board. That would work.
CFC: The problem with that is that the buttons may not align for the d-pad. If that's the case, I need to cut out individual contacts and the likes.
Sparkfist: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly). I will If I have to but would prefer not to.
I'll see what I can fit in there without modification. Maybe I CAN cut out individual contacts, and glue them on to another 1-piece board. That would work.
Hey, sup?
If you have a company do the work, yes it can.Kurt_ wrote:I thought etching was expensive...
If you have the tank and all the equipment, not it's actually very low cost.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
use a laser printer (not inkjet) to print on the shiny paper found in magazines, it will iron off onto your board and the etching solution won't eat through it (unless you let it etch for way too long.)Kurt_ wrote:Then I do believe I have a solution.
Now where could I buy printable silkscreen?
From the OLD ozforces forums
- Offenders will be bashed. Repeat Offenders will be repeatedly bashed.
- Offenders will be bashed. Repeat Offenders will be repeatedly bashed.

