FREE DC-DC CONVERTERS!!!

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

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Skyone
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Post by Skyone »

Ohhh, it seemed as if you meant the bar was for nothing.

I know that the shorter side on most diodes and other components is the cathode/negative.

I get it know, and thank god I did it right!

Thanks!
timmeh87
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Post by timmeh87 »

if you hook up electrolytic caps backwards, the electrolyte decomposes, relesases a gas, and the thing bursts open and sprays electrolyte everywhere.

if you hook tantalum caps up backwards, they melt internally and burst open

mot other caps can be hooked either way though
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"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"
ATOMICMAN
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Post by ATOMICMAN »

sorry about bumping a way old thread

they seem to be out of the "h" ones, is there any difference from the others? i dont think it would affect the functionality if i got a different one...

i wanna get 1 for 3.3 and 1 for 5 for the screen =)
tau219
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Post by tau219 »

awesome dude i just got mine in the mail the other day. Heres a bump.
togg719
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Post by togg719 »

Aw its not working its like a *dead link*

gasp
hailrazer
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Post by hailrazer »

togg719 wrote:Aw its not working its like a *dead link*

gasp
http://benheck.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15017
togg719
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Post by togg719 »

is every sample on that site like free free
timmeh87
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Post by timmeh87 »

its free on the assumption that you will consider buying at least 1000 of them in the future.

so its kinda like lying.

which is why you dont get any unless you need them.
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g0ld3n
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Post by g0ld3n »

Sorry for bumping this old thread but when I go here: http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/p ... l#features

It just says PURCHASE samples. Not FREE sample so could they have changed it or something?
Skyone
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Post by Skyone »

g0ld3n wrote:Sorry for bumping this old thread but when I go here: http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/p ... l#features

It just says PURCHASE samples. Not FREE sample so could they have changed it or something?
Apparently they did, us pesky anarchists. :P Try the PTH08080WAH. Here's how to hook it up to get 3.3v out of it:

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http://skytroniks.com/images/3v228v2.jpg
g0ld3n
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Post by g0ld3n »

Wow thank you. I'll order my samples in the morning. It's 2 a.m. here and I'm tired. I was signing up but it's so tedious. Do you really have to put the real info? I mean, Company name, company role, office number, company name, etc? Wow, I'll do it later when I'm not falling asleep. Thanks again for pointing me out to this, you have been a true help. :D Thanks again. Have a good night. Cya guys, I'm off to bed.
loverare
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Post by loverare »

Hi guys
Sorry but I don't speak english very well. For the 3.3V line, we need 1.3-1.5A, it's true ? But with the dc/dc converter PT78HT233H we have at max 2A. How I can controle this current. The easier please. Thanks
Yeah, Iam french and love Rareware
vskid
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Post by vskid »

loverare wrote:Hi guys
Sorry but I don't speak english very well. For the 3.3V line, we need 1.3-1.5A, it's true ? But with the dc/dc converter PT78HT233H we have at max 2A. How I can controle this current. The easier please. Thanks
It'll draw as much current as it needs, you just need to make sure it has enough. That applies to most electronics, but some weirdos like LEDs draw too much current and do need limited.
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loverare
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Post by loverare »

Ok dude. If I have understand, a high current it's important for some components, but not for the 3.3v line. It's true ?
Yeah, Iam french and love Rareware
loverare
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Post by loverare »

And for this converter, I need a 100 UF electrlytic or tantalum capacitor in the output. But, if I have a 100UF 16V, for my 3.3V line, it's good. The 16V is the max acceptly or the min?
Yeah, Iam french and love Rareware
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