anyway to purchase one of these from you, do you create enough to sell? paypal

Here ya go! He had one for sale, I don't know if it ever sold or not though.

Thanks, it appears he sold it! DAMN!!!!

I want this for sports games so bad on the 360..

If you offer enough money, I'm sure plenty of people would be willing to do it on here. What are you looking to spend?

He sold it for 200, was not looking to go that high, but I would. It offers headset jack, battery pack, etc - has everything I need.

HI buddy
That was nice picks .I have never seen my controller from inside.So what are you planning to do? Do you have any other features that are not present in the controller which are available in market?

Trust me, there isn't much market for this controller at all as it's expensive, and takes a decent amount of time and skill to build, so that doesn't make it every popular with most people. The only things that the first one didn't have were the Headset jack and Analog Triggers, and I've since done both of those on one, there are on 'other features' to stuffing a 360 controller in to a PS3 shell.

That is a AWSOME controller! I am new here and just a noob taking classes at the local college on electronics. What I am curious about is, can u take your 360 controller and put it inside a ps2 controller? This might have been answered but after reading through the forums i cannot seem to find the answer for that? From what it looks so far I understand that I need a certain type of ps3 and xbox 360 controller before you can mix them together. But how much more difficult would it be with a PS2 shell with button functions and wireless? I am looking to experiment with this in class

It could probably be stuffed into a PS2 controller shell, but that will have it's own set of challenges to get around that no one is going to know all of of until they try/do it.

Making it Wireless will be far, far more work than this here, in fact right close to impossible, because no Wireless version of the 360 controller can be hacked down as small as the Wired CL version used here can be. That's not to say you couldn't arse it in there and make it work, but it would look like crud without tossing a lot of time and $$$ into it.

This is so friecken awesome. I wish I could by a finished version .

What do you consider a 'finished version'? I've already made a few of them with the Headset connector and kept the Triggers Analog and they work, what's missing?

Did you ever put together a more formal guide for this mod? I was looking to do the same thing.

Sorry, nor do I really have any plans too as there are now 13 versions of the PS3 controllers and it's even more work now to get the older version Six-Axis board to fit in the newer DS3 shells as things don't line up right between them, had to figure all that out on the last one I made up. Also it can be made a few different ways and that makes for even more work to do on the tutorial as well as having to build one of them up for each difference to show what and how the differences are done.

This is by no means going to be any kind of tutorial, but I'm in the process of making another one of these up (when time and such permit) and figured I'd show how and where to cut down the 360 CL board to make it fit in this thing and what PS3 shell I'm using this time around, then maybe some other parts of it as I go if I'm in the documenting kinda mood.

First off it must be the 360 Wired CL version of the board, no other 360 controller board can be cut down this small by a long shot, and as far as Wireless goes, see my 360Duke Controller if you want to see how small the CG wireless board can get, but it's nothing in comparison to this and the amount of trace rebuilding that has to be done to the CG (and CG2) ones are insane compared to this CL one. The older style 'Matrix' boards would be even worse if you were to try it with them also.

Here is the max amount of the board you can cut down to and still have a functional board after a 1 wire rebuild. If you want both Rumble circuits to be intact as well a little more work is required, 1 wire for the Heavy Rumble and then more work for the Light Rumble that's covered later. You can of course cut outside these lines and have it be any size bigger than this, but this is the smallest you can cut it down to and not have a real mess to rebuild on it.



Make sure you use 30AWG wire at most, anything bigger than that and you'll run out of room and have a real mess real fast.

The one trace rebuild is a wire that goes from a trace to TP23 and that's it for that part. To rebuild the Heavy Rumble circuit you'll need to prep a couple of Vias and solder in another wire.



This is what the board looks like after being cut down and rebuilt.



One more thing, if you don't plan on using the headset jack at all you need to install a jumper wire between these 2 points. If you remove it and don't wire up some other headset jack there you do need the jumper wire installed or a Wireless Headset will never sync up with the controller because it will always 'think' a Wired Headset is plugged in since the Headset connector is a 'closed' type, well half closed anyway.




More info on the Rumble motor circuits if you still want to have that feature.

The Heavy Rumble circuit is still on the board with it cut this way, it just needs that Black wire above soldered in place, then you just need to solder the motor wires up to the leads on the Diode (D6) that's still there.

The Light Rumble circuit has to be rebuilt and it's a pretty simple setup, just a Diode and NPN Transistor. The + side of the motor connects straight to the 5v line of the controller (wherever as long as it's on that 5v line) and then the Light Rumble signal line from the board (The Via at R8) is what turns on the Transistor (Base) which then turns the Ground on to the Rumble motor. So on the Transistor it's Emitter goes to Ground, Collector to the - side of the Rumble motor and the Base goes to the Via at R8. The Diode gets installed Anode to the Emitter of the Transistor and the Cathode to the 5v line of the controller. You can either desolder and use the original Transistor and Diode or use any general purpose ones.

After the Trace/Rumble rebuild you have access to every line for every function of the controller on that tiny board in one spot or another and then it's just a matter of soldering a wire to the right Trace/TP spot for what you want. Practice up on soldering to traces if you aren't proficient at it, and if you've never tried it then don't until you've practiced a ton on something else that you don't mind messing up on. This thing will be in such a state that if you mess up in most places even once you'll be arsed out or have a very tough time getting the problem resolved.

This isn't a complete trace out of the board, it's missing a few things, Rumble lines, LEDs, and a few more, but it's to give you an idea and show that you'll have to solder to a lot of traces (13 or so) and some Vias to get this thing all wired up, some of the Via connections can be made on the top side of the board to keep it a little less cluttered. Again soldering to a trace is one thing on a board that's just getting repaired, doing it to a board that you'll be moving around a good bit before it's all said and done means the soldering will have to be done well and the wires secured in place, and even with 30awg wire it can get cramped kinda quick if you're not watching. There are a few 'easy' ones that you still have a nice TP spot to hit, but they're not the majority.




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The PS3 controller shell I'm using this time around is one of the White ones, which also happened to have a newer MSU_VX4_0.09 version board in it, Sony just can't stop flushing money down that revision pit, like to have just 10% of what that's costing them, but I digress.

Making the buttons up is just a matter of cutting the tops off the PS3 buttons and the 360 buttons, then gluing them together. I personally prefer Devcon Plastic Welder for most plastics I have to glue together. You'll also need to slightly modify the inside of the shell where the buttons are as there is a little 'lip' that will catch on them after they're made up like this, and all that has to be done is sand or Dremel that down so it doesn't catch the new buttons. If you plan to keep the PS3 buttons that isn't necessary.




If you're planning to keep a Headset connector on the controller you have the option to install it wherever you can make the room for it. I chose the more aesthetic looking place for this one and all that does is make it more difficult as it gets in the way of the CL board. The Headset connector I'm here using is from Mouser (part# 161-2508 EX) though any 2.5mm Stereo Closed type will work as long as you can make it fit in there and then wire it up correctly. This one is held in place with Hot Glue.






That's where this one is for right now, though like I said if I'm messing with the other parts of it later on and am in that documentation mood I'll post up what goes/went on there as well.

Here's a little bit of what needs to be done on the top side of the older Six-Axis board, provided you're going for keeping the Triggers (LT/L2, RT/R2) Analog as that needs 2 Daughter board connectors. Naturally the board will be stripped of all it's SMT components, top and bottom, besides the Daughter board connector and the LEDs, depending on what color you're after and then the USB connector stays in place as do the Sticks. It's best to just desolder it all completely, thru hole components first and then the SMT ones, then just reinstall what's needed.




The top connector is used only for the L2/R2 contacts, or L1/R1 if you're wiring it up more like the PS3 controller FPS layout where R1 is used for shooting. This also means that you'll be using 2 Daughter boards as well. The 2 jumper wires on the bottom connector are to tie the PS3 controllers 3 different COM lines into just 1 Common line like the CL board uses. The top connector is wired so the COM1 and COM2 lines go to Ground. The 4 wires soldered at RN3 are for the Player LEDs, the LED + line will be connected on the back of the board later. This board also has the LEDs swapped over with the 360 controllers Green ones.